8thWonder wrote:the MIVEC controller; can you set that to by pass the speed restrictor? how easy is it to do? and whats the going rate for a decent mivec controller?
For a general overview of the controller, check out this link:
It doesnt give an actual price on the unit itself, but i vaguely remember seeing a price listed in a recent car mag (cant find the dam issue atm), from memeory i think it was around the $2500 mark, dont quote me on it though.
the Apexi VAFC - Air, Fuel and Mivec Controller, that doesnt have the speed sensor cancellor, what other ways can i cancel the speed restrictor? dont suppose theres a wire you can simply cut? haha. which is the better system out of all of the ones available for mivec?
the Apexi VAFC - Air, Fuel and Mivec Controller, that doesnt have the speed sensor cancellor, what other ways can i cancel the speed restrictor?
Well just get the Apexi RSM then
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
The DataSystems MVC86X MIVEC Controller can de-restrict your FTO, as well as give a digital read out of the revs & speed.
The only negative when compared the the Apexi VAFC is of course the Air/Fuel Ratio adjustments...
This option I think is much better as it basically provides most of the features of a normal RSM PLUS the MIVEC adjustments, if your not into tuning your fto's air/fuel ratios then try to find this one.
I don't have a clue where you would get one though, I'm even having trouble finding the official manuals for the R-Spec ones...
EDIT: Here is nice site that contains most of the official manuals for the Apexi range... espesially as the old RSM's manuals that are hard to find. The manuals are in english... not in russian... http://www.rs-competition.ru/apexi/
Name: Boris
Location: Canberra
Rides: Mitsubishi Evo 8 MR, Volvo XC60 & 3 push bikes!
Is any one going to come back with details on the unichip?
And also what does every one think? I have a 95 model FTO and now I guess it's almost 10 years old....And putting in a chip to make it go faster?
I hve my doubts! As the chips are designed to draw out more power from the engine then what it has been programmed to do...
Just saying that if my car was only about 4 or 5 year old car I would, but a 10 year old car....do you guys think it actually maybe more harmful to do this?
Well that's true but if you think about it a 10% increase in power is quite a huge increase on a N/A car.....no one N/A mod is going to give you that much...
I'm just worried about what it'll do to the engine.....that's all really...
I mean as you say you can go and spend that money on other N/A mods? but I can't seem to see a real benefit in that either if you are going to spend a $1000 on any one mod or two....
These days there is only so much you can do with a grand you know....
I mean if my car was just fully stock then I'm sure there are plenty of places I can invest in that money on my car....but it's beyond that point now...I'm not saying my car is fully moded or anything....far from it...but I just can't seem to outweigh the chip benefits with any other mods with the equal value and get the same kind of out puts.....
i didnt say you'll get 10 percent gain, it was just a guess, might be less.
Unichips dont wreck your car, if anything will make it run better. The chip might not give you much more peak power, but it will give probably more torque and power thoughout the rev range. Make the car more drivable so to say.
Unichip only 1k? I thought they were closer to 2k?
And yes the chip gives you more of the torque then any thing else really.
And if the 10% you quoted is a guess then you guessed it pretty good. The chips usually gives you about 10% increase in power with the N/A cars...
But I don't think increasing the power and torque makes the car any more drivable then what it has been designed to do...
But it's definately more responsive and you can definately feel it!
And that's what I want....but I just don't know how much strain it's putting on the engine...
I'm not saying the chip wrecks the car....it is putting a lot of strain on the engine, and being a 10 year old engine I just don't know how it'll handle it.
Think about it, the chip is designed to suck power out of the engine then what it's designed to do and that's going to put a lot of strain on the engine...
Sorry I meant more responsive as in the feel of the power...
I am trying to say that the power is more responsive..that you can really feel the increase in power is what I'm trying to say...
Also, stressing out on an engine depends on a car...if you have a car like an Audi S3 then putting a chip in it is a great idea. Not because it's turboed but it's because the S3s have been purposely restricted in engine power output because of the higher models like the TT.
But an FTO isn't like that.
I wonder how much more power the FTO engine has to offer then what it's current mapped to output.
And any more suggestions on mods as I've almost got all of those....
a chip might stress a engine out a bit more, but its really not something to be concerned over as it would be tiny!
I think the mivec is at its peak power already. But just dont expect wonders with a chip, afterall you only can do so much to a 2.0L NA.
If you already got those mods then the bang for your buck ratio in performance gain, would be pretty bad imo. You have upped the power of a engine which isnt held back, so whatever you do would see a marginal increase in power.
Sorry to be away.
The unichip will not stress your engine. As stated earlier it helps.
You do feel the increase in performance. My GR with pod CAI and 2.5 exhaust went from 76kW to 86kW. Yes I was surprised with the low initial dyno reading but I am sure it was just this particular dyno. My tip Gr keeps up with most man GPX`s, so I believe this to be the unichip.
As for the engine wear, Most Jap performance cars are tuned almost to their peak, but are only tuned to 92 octane fuel. As the car gets older the tuning map may no longer be optimal to the car with changes over time.
The reason for tuning to lower octane is for safety. If you tune to 102 (as in Japan) but then run with 94 or lower you risk predetonation (pinging). This will damage your engine. When I had the unichip fitted it was full of 98 octane fuel and advanced the timing the fit this. I am very happy with the unichip. I regularly do sprints at Willowbank, and used to do the Mt Cotton Hillclimb ( see post on FTO not a race car.)
The main problems with the unichip are;
1. you always have to go back to a unichip dealer to tune it. (not often)
2. If you are ever thinking of going turbo this is not for you. I have offered my unichip up for sale When I go turbo.
3. It offers no parameters for you to control. ( not a big problem for most drivers. Tune once and forget.)
Hope all this helps.
P.S. My unichip costed $1350 fitted and tuned.
Yeah, I was surprised. Especially with only 76kw pre unichip.
but as said I keep up with most things and I race it so I do believe it is the dyno.
The GR is 130kW brand new at the flywheel. Take off some for 10 years old, some for At the wheels and heaps for the tip box.
But as stated in a lot of other discussions it is not the abolute number as dynos vary greatly, but the change.