Oil recomendations
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- Delvance
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Lol, what Khunjeng said +1.
Seriously...if you're changing your oil every 10 thou, and the cheap shiz is $30 and the good shiz is $90... $60 over 10 thou is nothing! Don't cheapskate on oil!
Aza013,
I get my RP oil from is motor racing. I think autobarn can order them...good luck finding one that has it sitting on the shelf though.. quite rare.
Oh, there's an article floating around on the net testing many different oils (done by street commodores oh dear). RP tested best and yes i did feel some difference when i changed to RP. So did my mate who works at ISMR.
Seriously...if you're changing your oil every 10 thou, and the cheap shiz is $30 and the good shiz is $90... $60 over 10 thou is nothing! Don't cheapskate on oil!
Aza013,
I get my RP oil from is motor racing. I think autobarn can order them...good luck finding one that has it sitting on the shelf though.. quite rare.
Oh, there's an article floating around on the net testing many different oils (done by street commodores oh dear). RP tested best and yes i did feel some difference when i changed to RP. So did my mate who works at ISMR.
- sublime19
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Every 10?Delvance wrote:Lol, what Khunjeng said +1.
Seriously...if you're changing your oil every 10 thou, and the cheap shiz is $30 and the good shiz is $90... $60 over 10 thou is nothing! Don't cheapskate on oil!
Aza013,
I get my RP oil from is motor racing. I think autobarn can order them...good luck finding one that has it sitting on the shelf though.. quite rare.
Oh, there's an article floating around on the net testing many different oils (done by street commodores oh dear). RP tested best and yes i did feel some difference when i changed to RP. So did my mate who works at ISMR.

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- Bennoz
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- Delvance
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Yep when i had my fto i was doing every 5 thou...but some say with the really nice oil that have additives and friction modifiers and cleaners etc...doing a change every 5 thou, you're not giving them a chance to do the best they can so unless you're tracking or redlining every day lots of times, leave it in for 10 thou.
Hey KJ, didn't you say something about this in the oil thread ?
Oh and to maintain warranty on a new jap car, generally they ask you to service every 10 thou, i would think if 5thou was really that much better then they'd ask you to do it every 5 thou... some european cars now only require it every 15thou but i think that's kind of stretching it ?! Personally i don't see a problem with 10thou if you're using really good oil. Read up on RP's features, they (of course) say using their oil allows for longer time before changes.
Anyways, i'm doing every 10thou with my mps with RP (the slart takes 5.7L to fill up sigh...).
Edit - 5 thou change is good if you're in badarse traffic a lot and do a lot of cold starts or never drive the car for long (e.g. your full time job is 5 min drive away). I do a lot of highway km so i'm happy with my 10thou logbook requirement.
Hey KJ, didn't you say something about this in the oil thread ?
Oh and to maintain warranty on a new jap car, generally they ask you to service every 10 thou, i would think if 5thou was really that much better then they'd ask you to do it every 5 thou... some european cars now only require it every 15thou but i think that's kind of stretching it ?! Personally i don't see a problem with 10thou if you're using really good oil. Read up on RP's features, they (of course) say using their oil allows for longer time before changes.
Anyways, i'm doing every 10thou with my mps with RP (the slart takes 5.7L to fill up sigh...).
Edit - 5 thou change is good if you're in badarse traffic a lot and do a lot of cold starts or never drive the car for long (e.g. your full time job is 5 min drive away). I do a lot of highway km so i'm happy with my 10thou logbook requirement.
- I8A4RE
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your a spastickhunjeng wrote:if you use anything BUT full syn. then your a spastic.
5w30 is the right oil to be using in your FTO if everything is adjusted properly.
10W40 would be ok. M1 0W40 would be ok also. I'm not going into it but mobil 0W40 is fine.
As for oils being a waste of money....why skimp on something so important when your spend thousands on your car? makes no sense.
if your tappets are noisy - fix them..

I agree that fully syn are a great oil, but i just dont need see the need to use it in a non turbo, non race car, that is 15yrs old and pretty much only does highway driving, its just crazy
Synthetic oils dont need to be changed anywhere near as often as conventional. If your using synthetic then you can easily stretch it out to 15,000km but you if you drive the car hard most of time then i would be doing it every 10k with filter.
Also changing from conventional to synthetic or vice versa can cause oil leaks.
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- I8A4RE
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Conventional oils have solvents that stick to gaskets and seals and often cause them to swell a certain way. These gaskets and seals have been used to the same oil for years and the switch to any other type of oil (whether it is to a different conventional oil brand, or an upgrade to a synthetic) may be harmful. The oil you change (or upgrade to) will also have solvents and additives, different from the original. So in other terms, the changing of oils could result in oil leaks and/or a once small oil leak becoming bigger due to the reaction the seals and gaskets will have to the change (not because of the oil itself). If you think that this might be the case for you (i.e. if you have an older car using conventional oil), it’s recommended that you not try synthetic oil until you have an engine (or new car) with relatively virgin gaskets and seals that will be able to acclimate much more easily to the chemical changes of the newer type of oil.
CHRISTIANITY: The belief that a cosmic Jewish Zombie who was his own father can make you live forever if you symbolically eat his flesh and telepathically tell him you accept him as your master, so he can remove an evil force from your soul that is present in humanity because a rib-woman was convinced by a talking snake to eat from a magical tree...
- I8A4RE
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i wouldnt worry about too much mate
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- sublime19
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I8A4RE wrote: i just dont need see the need to use it in a non turbo

On a more serious note - good info abt oil. I should probably stop trying out different types of oil to see what's better. Although my mechanic tells me I've never had an oil leak and he's never seen a car so old look so clean underneath with no leaks ever, hoping I can keep it that way by sticking to the one oil

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- khunjeng
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10k + with redline. I have been doing Oil Analysis for some time now up to 15k OCIs and found my redline in good shape still...you should see how clean the engine is now after a 3 OCIs of this stuff - its brand new looking. RP or Motul 300V would be the same.
As for noisy tappets, adjust you tappets properly. Mine are and I run a 5W30 ad it makes no noise.
There is a reason no1 a semi off the shelf anymore no point wasting time explaining again.
As for full syn for turbo only LOL
as for oil leaks, maybe with a Group 5...but with a group 3 or 4 which most of you are using...no proplem at all...I run a high moly group 5 blend with no issues so everyone else will be fine. peroid.
There is always some reaction with any oil depending on their addative package...i few chnages in this stops.
semi syn For the Loss....if your using it you are gayer than michael jackson.
As for noisy tappets, adjust you tappets properly. Mine are and I run a 5W30 ad it makes no noise.
There is a reason no1 a semi off the shelf anymore no point wasting time explaining again.
As for full syn for turbo only LOL
as for oil leaks, maybe with a Group 5...but with a group 3 or 4 which most of you are using...no proplem at all...I run a high moly group 5 blend with no issues so everyone else will be fine. peroid.
There is always some reaction with any oil depending on their addative package...i few chnages in this stops.
semi syn For the Loss....if your using it you are gayer than michael jackson.
- yano
- Mechanic
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