QUICK QUESTION on suspension

Post by **I8A4RE** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 12:56 pm

Hey im goin to buy g4 racing shocks spoke to the guy via email and he said i could get any spring rate i wanted. That effects the ride and handling right? (harder ride = better handlin)?????? i want a firm ride (dont mind hobbling to much just want excellent handling) So what spring rate should i get.

FTO338 · Post by **FTO338** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 1:55 pm

Hander the ride doesn't always mean the better the handling. If you have it too hard, the car will bounce like crazy and if you don't have extremely good tyres to match, you will have no grip, as you constantly "bounce" off any bump or uneven road.

For track a super hard suspension is ok, as track usually got pretty flat surface and most people either use simi-slick or full slick tyres.

akuma3 · Post by **akuma3** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:18 pm

I remember G4 have a 16 way adjustable, what FTO338 said is so true ... my old Koni adjustable even when i adjust to the softest it's still so hard that it'll bounce off the road.

First thing for changing into coil over is ... hopefully you won't experience what i had before ... fitting problem haha, you'll find the ride is way more firm BUT your tyre grips will be your next problem

Post by **I8A4RE** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:35 pm

Ok im so new to this side of things

1) what fitting problems
2) The specs for these coil overs says "Top turning adjuster to adjust damper and rebound up to 36 ways. All shock absorbers are adjustable for both compression and rebound"
3) what spring rate do i get? "Linear rate spring with chrome silicon metal alloy springs, available from 3.5-22 kg/mm".

All i want is, as good handlin as i have now if not better (should be for $1400)
be able to lower my car as much as possible (i know i have to get aligment every time i adjust them) and a firm ride but not havin a detremental effect on handling

This is the ad in full
*G4 shock absorbers use a seperate gas and oil (30% Nitrogen 70% Oil) monotube design that helps reduce oil leaking defects.
*The dampers can be disassembled, and rebuilt to meet all requirements. *The shock absorber also includes high-performance front pillow ball top mount (Mcpherson Type) to complete this unique products.
*Manufactured using lightweight 6061 aluminum alloy material with T6 for increased hardness, and formed by forging and anodized to avoid losing color.
*All models can be lowered to 120mm less than the original height when shock absorber is fitted.
*Linear rate spring with chrome silicon metal alloy springs, available from 3.5-22 kg/mm.
*Top turning adjuster to adjust damper and rebound up to 36 ways. All shock absorbers are adjustable for both compression and rebound.
*Teflon thread coated to prevent rust and corrosion.
*G4 shock absorbers are qualified by "World ARTC" for million circles with no liquid leakage, qualified as race proven equipments.
*12 month replacement warranty.
*Exclusive to Just Jap.

Post by **I8A4RE** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 3:25 pm

HELLO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SG · Post by SG » Tue Sep 19, 2006 3:31 pm

the top turning adjuster is just a knob on the top you can click it into place 36 times clockwise and anti clockwise end to end. and adjusts both compression & rebound at the same time (shock dampering). but due to whatever spring rate and weight the car is on that side, or something, is how much effective adjustment the damper will give you.., so ou might only get 15 adjustments from point 0 before its no softer... so points 16-36 are useless then... and the manual will probly say it'll damage the shock absorber if you turn it more than about 15 points

on a smooth track hard springs are better
on a bumpy track softer springs are better (typical road)
on a long fast bend hard shocks are better
on a slow hairpin softer shocks are better

(afaik)

i think thats number 2

Post by **I8A4RE** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 3:43 pm

Thanks SG now just the other 2 questions to go. The guy will be ringing me back soon pleaseeeeeeeeee help ppl

FTO338 · Post by **FTO338** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 6:25 pm

I went through 2 set of adjustable shock/spring. One is just for the firmness, which is the KYB Buzz Touring (JDM Spec). And the other is fully adjustable coil over, Cusco P Zero R.

Out of the two I have to say the KYB Buzz Touring are much better for the street. Itâ€™s more comfortable and because itâ€™s less bouncy, I can actually corner faster.

I8AFRE, if you not planning to take your FTO to a track. I suggest you try just a lower spring first.

Or have a look at Ben's suspension thread, I think thats a pretty good package for the road too.

Post by **I8A4RE** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:27 pm

Ive got lowered springs in at the moment King springs and the guy told me the are the lowest and it aint low enough so thought to get any lower i need adjustables as they can go down to 120mm from standard height (not that i want to go to that extreme). My current shocks (factory) are absolutly spent

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 8:17 pm

Yeah Im not an advocate of coilovers for road use. You need to keep in mind that after you've spent 2K on coilovers, you then need to find another thousand to do the rest of the suspension... like polyurethane bushes, swaybars etc. The spring & shock combo is but a small part of the whole suspension picture.

Hobbsie · Post by **Hobbsie** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:37 pm

I8AFRE: if all you want is for your car to be as low as possible, get a bodykit.. with springs and kit your car will be right on the ground. its cheaper than working your suspension, and looks better

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:16 pm

Hobbsie wrote:I8AFRE: if all you want is for your car to be as low as possible, get a bodykit.. with springs and kit your car will be right on the ground. its cheaper than working your suspension, and looks better

Not sure if its that much cheaper.

I have a damp. adjustable setup. cost about 2k with all the adjustment and fixing of the swaybars, bushes etc. Its lowered and has a much better ride than it was with stock shockers..plus I love changing from firm to soft depending on what mood I'm in.

Liquidity · Post by **Liquidity** » Tue Sep 19, 2006 11:50 pm

khunjeng wrote: I love chnaging form firm to soft depending on what mood I'm in.

Pure gold.

Post by **I8A4RE** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 1:09 am

Im gettin body kit it goes on in 3 wks but i dont like the gap between the top of the wheel and guard.

Post by **BorepYano** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 1:42 am

gap fill it

what if u got bigger rims?

khunjeng · Post by **khunjeng** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 8:42 am

I8AFRE wrote:Im gettin body kit it goes on in 3 wks but i dont like the gap between the top of the wheel and guard.

They are right about the Body Kit and clearence...it will be much lower for most of the kits around..but you may still have the guard to wheel gap.

Its a toss up between lower ride and ok dampening. Really doing it properly is the way to go but if you wanna do it on the cheep just get lowered springs and see how you go - you can always upgrade your shockers etc later.

FTO338 · Post by **FTO338** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 9:09 am

BorepYano wrote:gap fill it

what if u got bigger rims?

Bigger rims don't do anything, as you get lower profile tyres to keep the accuracy of your speedo.

Post by **BorepYano** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 2:26 pm

oh yeah... i'm an idiot T_T'

well... maybe he doesnt care about the speedo

lol

Post by **I8A4RE** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 5:34 pm

Yes I care about the speedo considering i got like only half a point left lol.

Its a toss up between lower ride and ok dampening. Really doing it properly is the way to go but if you wanna do it on the cheep just get lowered springs and see how you go - you can always upgrade your shockers etc later.

I already have lowered springs and when i swapped them i ova i found out my current shocks are rooted thats why im looking at the G4's

Post by **Bennoz** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 11:32 pm

Liquidity wrote:
khunjeng wrote: I love chnaging form firm to soft depending on what mood I'm in.
Pure gold.

lol that is siggable