Today my timing belt came in so after work I felt like changing it before the weekend, all I can say that its a nightmare, every single bolt was tight, I had the breaker bar on them, once they were loose they were easy to get out.
Now the thing is I have sorta come to a brick wall, I'm having trouble getting the crank pulley bolt off, I'm going to have another shot at it tomorrow again, I just hope that replacing the tappet adjuster is not give me as much trouble.
Replacing my timing belt and tappet adjuster
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bigpitty1
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Bennoz
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onnzo
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Hey - im doing my timing belt at the moment too!
I've got my crank pulley off - was really easy.
I placed a ratchet from the crankshaft socket (you can access it from the wheel arch) with a breaker bar touching the ground - it should be touching the ground in front on the engine.
Then crank the starter and watch it break loose! (credit goes to the ftooc forums for this idea).
PLease be careful if you choose to use this method, another member has pointed out that if the bolt is on too tight, it could lift the car right off the stands and cause a lot of damage to the car, and cause personal injury. Only crank the starter for a fraction of a second.
Im up to my water pump now - does anyone know if you can remove the water pump without removing the side engine mount?
Feel free to email/pm me if you want any help (I might have to do the same with you
)
Mike
I've got my crank pulley off - was really easy.
I placed a ratchet from the crankshaft socket (you can access it from the wheel arch) with a breaker bar touching the ground - it should be touching the ground in front on the engine.
Then crank the starter and watch it break loose! (credit goes to the ftooc forums for this idea).
PLease be careful if you choose to use this method, another member has pointed out that if the bolt is on too tight, it could lift the car right off the stands and cause a lot of damage to the car, and cause personal injury. Only crank the starter for a fraction of a second.
Im up to my water pump now - does anyone know if you can remove the water pump without removing the side engine mount?
Feel free to email/pm me if you want any help (I might have to do the same with you
)Mike
Last edited by onnzo on Sat Aug 12, 2006 3:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Bennoz
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Bennoz
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onnzo
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Hey Bennoz,
Im up to the tensioning of the belts now - I have started a separate topic askign this but it might be more useful here...
If all the camshafts and crankshaft are already aligned (and locked in place with clamps), do you know if it is necessary to turn the crankshaft back one tooth as the manual describes?
Also, what did you use to tension the tensioner pulley? They list a special mitsu part to do it?
Michael
Im up to the tensioning of the belts now - I have started a separate topic askign this but it might be more useful here...
If all the camshafts and crankshaft are already aligned (and locked in place with clamps), do you know if it is necessary to turn the crankshaft back one tooth as the manual describes?
Also, what did you use to tension the tensioner pulley? They list a special mitsu part to do it?
Michael
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h
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Not recomended it its so tight a breaker bar wont shift it you risk lifting your car off the axle stands and causing serious damage to both the undertray of the car and your starter motor, a good pulley brace (y shaped thing with 2 lugs on) and a 2-3' breaker bar extended outside the wheel warch will usually shift it.onnzo wrote:Hey - im doing my timing belt at the moment too!
I've got my crank pulley off - was really easy.
I placed a ratchet from the crankshaft socket (you can access it from the wheel arch) with a breaker bar touching the ground - it should be touching the ground in front on the engine.
Then crank the starter and watch it break loose! (credit goes to the ftooc forums for this idea).
Im up to my water pump now - does anyone know if you can remove the water pump without removing the side engine mount?
Feel free to email/pm me if you want any help (I might have to do the same with you
Mike
H
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h
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Needs to be turned back one notch in order to get the belt tight between the front bank exhaust cam pulley and the crank pulley. I have the mitsi tool to tighten them dunno what others have used, but I bought the tool as I do a few of themonnzo wrote:Hey Bennoz,
Im up to the tensioning of the belts now - I have started a separate topic askign this but it might be more useful here...
If all the camshafts and crankshaft are already aligned (and locked in place with clamps), do you know if it is necessary to turn the crankshaft back one tooth as the manual describes?
Also, what did you use to tension the tensioner pulley? They list a special mitsu part to do it?
Michael
H
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onnzo
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Thanks for the info H.
I agree that the starter motor/breaker bar method is risky but if you dont have the right tools or the means to engineer a tool, it is another option to consider.
I was going to make up a tool but then decided against it. I have edited my post to say that if you do use this method - crank the engine for only a fraction of a second - and to say that it could be dangerous.
So to get it tight between the front bank exhaust pulley and the crank pulley, does the exhaust cam have to be free spinning? I have clamped it so it doesnt move.
Do you recall how much you paid for the tool? If youre in Vic, is there any chance that I could hire/borrow it? I am happy to pay for the privelage!
Mike
I agree that the starter motor/breaker bar method is risky but if you dont have the right tools or the means to engineer a tool, it is another option to consider.
I was going to make up a tool but then decided against it. I have edited my post to say that if you do use this method - crank the engine for only a fraction of a second - and to say that it could be dangerous.
So to get it tight between the front bank exhaust pulley and the crank pulley, does the exhaust cam have to be free spinning? I have clamped it so it doesnt move.
Do you recall how much you paid for the tool? If youre in Vic, is there any chance that I could hire/borrow it? I am happy to pay for the privelage!
Mike
Needs to be turned back one notch in order to get the belt tight between the front bank exhaust cam pulley and the crank pulley. I have the mitsi tool to tighten them dunno what others have used, but I bought the tool as I do a few of them
H
Last edited by onnzo on Sat Aug 12, 2006 3:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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h
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ummm ~I will be in Oz eventually but at the mo I'm still in Manchester UK otherwise you would be welcoem to borrow it, nah the exahuast pully stays clamped and the winding it back one notch then pout the belt on and wind it forward it pulls the belt tight and all the pullys into allignment. I'll pm you how I would go about tightening the pulley without the tool as it has scope to go wrong if not done right and Im not comfortable leaving that kinda info out in the open...
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bigpitty1
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Hey everyone, yeah a couple of guys at work told me the breaker bar on the pulley bolt and hit the starter, I did it and it came off.
I replaced the timing belt, drive belts and a tappet adjuster screw thingy, While I was there I adjusted all the tappets and changed my oil.
All the cars that I have worked with, the FTO has got to be the worst one to change the timing belt, on my subaru liberty I did the timing belt in an hour, the fto took 2 nights.
Is there any tricks for getting the centre timing cover off, I ended up pulling the crank angle sensor off.
Changing the tappet adjuster wasn't that bad, the 11 bolts to take off the cams and that, It took me a while to find the 10mm bolt behind the exhaust cam wheel.
After all that I'm just happy that it started with no problems, I will put up some pics aswell
I replaced the timing belt, drive belts and a tappet adjuster screw thingy, While I was there I adjusted all the tappets and changed my oil.
All the cars that I have worked with, the FTO has got to be the worst one to change the timing belt, on my subaru liberty I did the timing belt in an hour, the fto took 2 nights.
Is there any tricks for getting the centre timing cover off, I ended up pulling the crank angle sensor off.
Changing the tappet adjuster wasn't that bad, the 11 bolts to take off the cams and that, It took me a while to find the 10mm bolt behind the exhaust cam wheel.
After all that I'm just happy that it started with no problems, I will put up some pics aswell
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bigpitty1
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I got some pics up, I didn't really take any photos doing the timing belt but took some when I was replacing the tappet adjuster.
The cam holder:
The engine with the cam holder out:
When putting the cam holder back on I used ThreeBond liquid gasket:
The ThreeBond seems to be doing the job just fine, I can't see any oils leaks which I'm happy about, I didn't feel like pulling it apart again.
The cam holder:
The engine with the cam holder out:
When putting the cam holder back on I used ThreeBond liquid gasket:
The ThreeBond seems to be doing the job just fine, I can't see any oils leaks which I'm happy about, I didn't feel like pulling it apart again.