Im going to attempt my own 100,000km major service

[jonowong]

Guys i need some advice on this before i attempt this...

What im going to do is


- Change Engine Oil (10w-40w)
- Engine Flush (Nulon Engine Oil Flush)
- Engine Oil filter (MD360935 or Z411)
Straight forward

- Raditor Flush and Replace Coolant
This is pretty straight forward but is there any particular brand or ethelene glycol concentration i should use?

- Replace Fuel Filter (MB868459)
Where is this located? i cant find it

- Replace Transmission oil (Auto) and filter
Filter: MD752072

What oil do i use?
Ive been told Dexron III is the one to use, can someone confirm this

- Change spark plugs to Iridium Spark Plugs
GPX Front Bank - MD314766 (BKR7EKC)
GPX Rear Bank - MS851347 (PFR7M)

Should i change the leads aswell? what benefits do i get from changing the leads? do i need a new TB gasket before attempting this?

- Brake fluid flushed and bleed
What brake fluid should i use? DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5 and what brand?
How do i go about flushing the brake fluid? do i just do it the gravity way and then just fill it up from the top up bottle in the engine bay?

- Replace brake pads
GPX Front Pads - MR389549 or MR389546 (not sure)
GPX Rear Pads - MR389569

Straight forward

- Replace droplinks and bushes
Straight forward just use bennoz guide

Ok after reading bennoz guide can someone confirm this? these parts are a must...

SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing - for the front 2 little bushes & steel crush tube
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s10p364

SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing - the big one at the rear
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s10p363

MR131680 Front antiroll bar Droplinks
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s10p151

MB809354 Rear Droplinks for unlowered cars
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m3b0s10p359

and im not quiet sure about these parts... do we need to replace these?

MR197005 SPF1700/16K Front Anti-Roll bar bushes
MR197003(GPX) MR197002(GR) - Rear Anti-Roll bar bushes
SPF1344/16k for front sway bar bushes
SPF2004/18k for rear sway bar bushes

- Clean Airfilter and Reoil
Straight forward

- Replace Cambelt and Drivebelts
Ill be seeing a mechanic with experience with FTOs for this...

Is there anything i've forgotten? and can i get some part numbers please?


Thanks for the help guys

edit added: part numbers and more questions

[devil2004]

- Fuel Filter
Where is this located? i cant find it

- Change spark plugs to Iridium Spark Plugs
Should i change the leads aswell? what benefits do i get from changing the leads? do i need a new TB gasket before attempting this?

- Brake fluid flushed and bleed
What brake fluid should i use? DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5 and what brand?
How do i go about flushing the brake fluid? do i just do it the gravity way and then just fill it up from the top up bottle in the engine bay?

Is there anything i've forgotten?

Thanks for the help guys

1. fuel filter is under the battery
2. you should change the leads as your current ones would have worn out. The benefits is that your car will feel more responsive. A TB gasket is not needed if you take care.
3. If you take your car to track days then get DOT5, if not then DOT 4 should be good enough. Do a search on brake bleeding and you'll find a DIY thread.
4. You forgot about your water pump, power steering and air con belts.

[khunjeng]

1. fuel filter is on the firewall behind the battery and behind the engine. Just did mine.
2. replace the leads...buy some from me I have one 8mm set left.
3. replace your plugs. I have one set of IRIWAY7s left.
4. Check your alternator and air con belt. Pretty easy job although I'm too lasy to do it.
4. I would suggest you use a POE base oil. Redline/Motul 300V. But if you wanna save cash just get a good IV base synth. like Mobil 1. Not as good but will do the job. Look at the cold start cSt ratings...u will see why a good 10W30 POE ester base stock is better than your mobil 1. but I can go on about this for ages.

thats all from me.

[Rocco]

1. fuel filter is on the firewall behind the battery and behind the engine. Just did mine.
2. replace the leads...buy some from me I have one 8mm set left.
3. replace your plugs. I have one set of IRIWAY7s left.
4. Check your alternator and air con belt. Pretty easy job although I'm too lasy to do it.
4. I would suggest you use a POE base oil. Redline/Motul 300V. But if you wanna save cash just get a good IV base synth. like Mobil 1. Not as good but will do the job. Look at the cold start cSt ratings...u will see why a good 10W30 POE ester base stock is better than your mobil 1. but I can go on about this for ages.

thats all from me.

How difficult was the fuel filter to change?Cause it's quite a tight little area to work in.

[jonowong]

ive been told not to smoke when changing the fuel filter

[khunjeng]

fuel filter sucks arse...fuk it took me so long. need to do it when u take the inlet manifold off.

[Bennoz]

ive been told not to smoke when changing the fuel filter

Bah! You've seen to many hollywood movies lol. Chuck a lit ciggie in petrol & it just goes out...

Seriously, your on the right track - however I've just got home after a rather stressful 14 hour day at work & Im going a little crosseyed... soccer still to go!

So I'll disect your list & comment on what I can tomorrow

[jonowong]

how the hell do u get the fuel filter out? ive been at it for 2 days...
ive removed the intake... to get more leverage and ive got a wrench to grab the hex on the fuel filter and then twisted the bolt anti clockwise to try to get it out? why wont it budge? the hex is starting to get rounded...

do the fuel lines need to be depressurised before they come off?

[Bennoz]

First off I'd be taking the intake manifold off so you can get at it, then leave the fliter bolted solid to the car & undo the lines first. You dont need to 'depressurise' it.

[Killer7]

The fuel filter can be changed in around 2 hours.

Remove strut brace, battery, air filter pipe for easy access.

Remove the filter outlet and inlet before removing the chassis bolt. Now remove chassis bolts and replace filter in reverse order.

..and regarding brake fluid I recommend you use DOT 4 or DOT 5.1.

You are meant to use DOT 4 but 5.1 is an improved version, both are Poly Alkylene Glycol based. DOT 5 is silicone based.. so unless you do a very thorough flush I recommend you stay away from DOT 5.

[jonowong]

yeh the filter wont budge for me... the bolts are just on too tight... dont know what to do...

[Killer7]

yeh the filter wont budge for me... the bolts are just on too tight... dont know what to do...

WD40 mate!!

If not borrow some tools. If still not.. go to a garage and ask them to help you remove the bolts. Should cost a few pennies

[khunjeng]

mine was really tight..I assume u have a spanner on the top and another one the actual fuel line? should be able to get it off without too much trouble once you have worked out how to get into it

[Rocco]

Just did my filter,was particularly difficult.Just a lot of tight space work so it seems to drag on for a while when u can only make 2 icnh spanner movments.

[Liquidity]

i know this is an old post, but for safety you should always pull the fuse/disconnect your fuel pump and ignition/ecu fuses, and crank the engine a few times.

all goes well, it will not start but simply turn over. This will drop the fuel pressure in the lines so you dont get fuel spraying everywhere.

you *will* get fuel leaking out though, so have a rag ready.

[Nacho]

i know this is an old post, but for safety you should always pull the fuse/disconnect your fuel pump and ignition/ecu fuses, and crank the engine a few times.

all goes well, it will not start but simply turn over. This will drop the fuel pressure in the lines so you dont get fuel spraying everywhere.

you *will* get fuel leaking out though, so have a rag ready.

You don't need to do that when you change the fuel filter. I just did it today.