
Manual friction point
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- Oldtimer
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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Manual friction point
Just a simple question, i replace my clutch about a year ago now but my friction point is still pretty damn high after i replace a new one, just wonder for other manual owners out there, how high is your friction point? 

- Bennoz
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- ahew
- Grease Monkey
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don't know if this would apply for FTO's but I had this problem with my Silvia when I first got it. The actual rod that connected to the clutch pedal was adjustable, so if you disconnected it (sometimes this is the biggest b*tch of a job depending on your patience), you can actually see that it has threads on it. You should be able to screw the connection back towards the firewall a few times, giving you a lower friction point. winding it away from the firewall will give you a higher friction point. however don't be too keen and adjust it too much as only a few threads back or forth will make a huge difference.
hope this helps.. if anybody with a manual can confirm if this is right please do so
hope this helps.. if anybody with a manual can confirm if this is right please do so

- Star_Lancer
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- Bennoz
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Quite right Ahew! I've never bothered putting much focus on that with all the other bits I've got going on with the car - but its quite true
*As Ben heads out to the car with tool set lol*
I just so happen to have a clutch master cylinder on me too...

Akuma3 - see the bracket with the hole in it (right side of pic) - see the small threaded section with the nut on it just before. If you pull the pin out of the top of the clutch pedal (which connects to that bracket with the hole in it) release the nut & wind that bracket in towards the firewall - then retighten the nut & re-assemble, that will do the trick nicely
Keep in mind - to get at this, you need to be a contorsionist, as its right up under the drivers side footwell. I almost slipped a disc swapping that master cylinder out!
*As Ben heads out to the car with tool set lol*
I just so happen to have a clutch master cylinder on me too...

Akuma3 - see the bracket with the hole in it (right side of pic) - see the small threaded section with the nut on it just before. If you pull the pin out of the top of the clutch pedal (which connects to that bracket with the hole in it) release the nut & wind that bracket in towards the firewall - then retighten the nut & re-assemble, that will do the trick nicely

Keep in mind - to get at this, you need to be a contorsionist, as its right up under the drivers side footwell. I almost slipped a disc swapping that master cylinder out!
- dj_ules
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shouldnt the friction point be adjusted by the hydrolic its self? i took my car back to my workshop. after i got my clutch done, my trigger point was really high like almost at the end of the pedal. and it wore in. a bit .till i couldnt feel it anymore. and what he actualy done was a flush. and he tightned or losened some bolt. whilst i was pumping the clutch. and it fixd my friction point now its perfect. is this what can be done to solve your prob?
- Bennoz
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dj ules - you could do it that way, but i always felt it was a little dodgy coz your comprimising the clamping force.
with this way, the same force (same amount of fluid in the clutch system) is exerted but your just changing the physical point where the pedal engages/disengages. most of the people here having this problem will probably notice that they don't have to push the pedal down too far to dis-engage the clutch, so all this does is change that point to maybe 1/2 way or 1/3 of the way down.
peeps, you should also be able to adjust how far the clutch pedal springs back up from a little stopper. this is basically just a bolt. if you're adjusting this bolt, be careful as you could bring this bolt out too far and it may stop your clutch from fully engaging, which would mean your clutch will be slipping.
not what you want if you plant your foot at say 80km/h and see the revs go up but nothing is happening in the accelerating department hehehe.
with this way, the same force (same amount of fluid in the clutch system) is exerted but your just changing the physical point where the pedal engages/disengages. most of the people here having this problem will probably notice that they don't have to push the pedal down too far to dis-engage the clutch, so all this does is change that point to maybe 1/2 way or 1/3 of the way down.
peeps, you should also be able to adjust how far the clutch pedal springs back up from a little stopper. this is basically just a bolt. if you're adjusting this bolt, be careful as you could bring this bolt out too far and it may stop your clutch from fully engaging, which would mean your clutch will be slipping.

- Bennoz
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