WTB rear swaybar
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- ANBU_fto
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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WTB rear swaybar
arlo people
i reallly really want to get my hands on a rear swaybar. pm me
or if you know of a place that would sell them, that would be great.
im in melb
i reallly really want to get my hands on a rear swaybar. pm me
or if you know of a place that would sell them, that would be great.
im in melb
...groOl...
08 Evolution X - White
97 Gpx Fto - Racing Red
08 Evolution X - White
97 Gpx Fto - Racing Red
- Bennoz
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- FTO338
- Oldtimer
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His got a GPX Ben, btw ANBU, by sway bar do you mean the one that fit on the top of your suspension, which of cause inside your boot?
If so, just go to any performance shop & ask for a CE Lancer one. Or if you want to pick someone's brain, got to Ontherunperformance in Box Hill.
If so, just go to any performance shop & ask for a CE Lancer one. Or if you want to pick someone's brain, got to Ontherunperformance in Box Hill.
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
- ahew
- Grease Monkey
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just to sortof explain it further, what FTO338 was describing is the rear strut bar (strut top). you can also get one for the lower strut as well... these just stiffen up the car as they act as braces.
then there is the rear swaybar itself which sits underneath the rear of the car and stops the car from body rolling too much as well as stiffening up the car. kills 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak.
as far as i know, the FTO tends to push in on corners (understeer). my car is totally stock and i've experienced this a few times already since i purchased it. to counter this and get a more neutral balanced car, you're going the right way! why? because rear sway bars help to stiffen the rear up as well as stop the rear from rolling too much, they effectively induce a bit of oversteer and balance the car's overall handling. if i was going to perform just one suspension mod, this would be it. an adjustable rear sway bar would be the best as you can play around with it until you're comfortable with the setting that's best for you
however.. if you're looking for a stock replacement rear sway bar then you'd forget all of above as it doesn't really apply.
then there is the rear swaybar itself which sits underneath the rear of the car and stops the car from body rolling too much as well as stiffening up the car. kills 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak.
as far as i know, the FTO tends to push in on corners (understeer). my car is totally stock and i've experienced this a few times already since i purchased it. to counter this and get a more neutral balanced car, you're going the right way! why? because rear sway bars help to stiffen the rear up as well as stop the rear from rolling too much, they effectively induce a bit of oversteer and balance the car's overall handling. if i was going to perform just one suspension mod, this would be it. an adjustable rear sway bar would be the best as you can play around with it until you're comfortable with the setting that's best for you

however.. if you're looking for a stock replacement rear sway bar then you'd forget all of above as it doesn't really apply.

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- ahew
- Grease Monkey
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They are great - especially if your car does any track work.
I have both front & rear fitted & Im not looking back
They reduce the amount of lean whilst in a corner, they almost eliminate any 'car throw' you may encounter when changing from left cornering to right. Also depending on how you adjust the them, you can really get the car to tuck in & turn hard, or you can go for the more unpredicatable turn in with controlable wheel drift. So many options!
And yep - I thought mine handled like it was on rails, till I had these puppies installed.
I have both front & rear fitted & Im not looking back

They reduce the amount of lean whilst in a corner, they almost eliminate any 'car throw' you may encounter when changing from left cornering to right. Also depending on how you adjust the them, you can really get the car to tuck in & turn hard, or you can go for the more unpredicatable turn in with controlable wheel drift. So many options!
And yep - I thought mine handled like it was on rails, till I had these puppies installed.

- ahew
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Have a read of this thread:
http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... pic&t=5944
I put in a whole bunch other things as well, including Tein Pillow mounts for camber adjustment & offset castor polyurethane bushes.
When the term 'adjustable' is used on swaybars - all it is, is a number of available mounting holes that you can use to connect the bars to the droplinks - each setting gives a different feel.
With mine being a GR - the rear bar is not adjustable. Reason being the rear droplinks are adjustable on a GR. Unlike standard droplinks (a metal rod with 2 ball joints welded on) the GR rear links are a threaded rod with movable bushes on them. This is where I do my rear adjustment. On a GPX, the rear swarbar is adjustable - ie has the different mounting holes.
Standard front size is 15mm - upgraded to 18mm. The rear is 18mm, upgraded to 22mm. Neither the front or rear feels tighter than the other, it remains balanced, just stiffer.
Too much neg camber is not so good either (as I discovered
) your turn in & cornering precision is huge, but you subsitute less tyre on the road & unpredicatable handling during low speed manouvering (like 3 point turns in a carpark.) I have mine set at 1.75 degrees.
More castor is good thou, again gives a more precise feel. You can get upto 2 degrees with 'off the shelf' bushes.
The FTO being fairly powerful for a FWD also requires a certain amount of toe-in as well. Not enough & you will 'rail road' all over roads with sunken driving channels. Adding that bit more toe-in also helps with torque steer.
Too much & you'll wear your tyres out quick smart. I have 0.75 degrees set. It helps compensate the twitchy feel that bigger camber & castor gives.
As with most suspension mods thou, there are pros & cons to every mod. Each car & driver will have their own preference & should certainly be setup by a good suspension shop. Test drive each setting & see what suits you
http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... pic&t=5944
I put in a whole bunch other things as well, including Tein Pillow mounts for camber adjustment & offset castor polyurethane bushes.
When the term 'adjustable' is used on swaybars - all it is, is a number of available mounting holes that you can use to connect the bars to the droplinks - each setting gives a different feel.
With mine being a GR - the rear bar is not adjustable. Reason being the rear droplinks are adjustable on a GR. Unlike standard droplinks (a metal rod with 2 ball joints welded on) the GR rear links are a threaded rod with movable bushes on them. This is where I do my rear adjustment. On a GPX, the rear swarbar is adjustable - ie has the different mounting holes.
Standard front size is 15mm - upgraded to 18mm. The rear is 18mm, upgraded to 22mm. Neither the front or rear feels tighter than the other, it remains balanced, just stiffer.
Too much neg camber is not so good either (as I discovered

More castor is good thou, again gives a more precise feel. You can get upto 2 degrees with 'off the shelf' bushes.
The FTO being fairly powerful for a FWD also requires a certain amount of toe-in as well. Not enough & you will 'rail road' all over roads with sunken driving channels. Adding that bit more toe-in also helps with torque steer.
Too much & you'll wear your tyres out quick smart. I have 0.75 degrees set. It helps compensate the twitchy feel that bigger camber & castor gives.
As with most suspension mods thou, there are pros & cons to every mod. Each car & driver will have their own preference & should certainly be setup by a good suspension shop. Test drive each setting & see what suits you

- ahew
- Grease Monkey
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- Bennoz
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