brake fluid flush
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- Mechanic
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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- Oldtimer
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- Bennoz
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Although I've not done a full flush on an FTO, I cant imagine you'd need any more than a litre. So buy 2 bottles (usually they are 500ml)
As far as bleeding it goes, there are 5 points to bleed from, 1 on the master cylinder & 1 one each of the calipers. To drain, take the lid off the master cylinder resevoir, then release all 4 of the caliper bleed nipples. Then slowly pump the pedal till fluid stops coming from the wheels (best to get a helper to watch for you - you'll need the helper to re-pressurise the system) Also catch the fluid in jars - as its corrosive to just about anything in its way... from paint work to grass. If you pump the pedal fast, you run the risk of squirting it all over the place. Some people use thin plastic tubing from the bleed nipple into a bottle.
Then do all the nipples back up (including the master cylinder one) and the painful process begins. Fill the resevior right to the top, pump the pedal up & down a dozen or so times, then hold it down - release the master cylinder nipple breifly - until you hear the air escape - then nip it back up. Repeat until the pedal gains some feel to it (as it will sloppy & useless.) Now follow the very same procedure on all of the wheels. Have your helper in the car pumping the pedal a few times - then hold down - release & tighten the bleed nipple. Do this until all the air is out of the line to that wheel - fluid will sart coming out of the nipple. Repeat on all wheels till the pedal becomes hard again. Dont forget to top up the resevoir as you go.... otherwise you'll suck air back into the lines!
Sh*t of a process... I pay people to do it now
As far as bleeding it goes, there are 5 points to bleed from, 1 on the master cylinder & 1 one each of the calipers. To drain, take the lid off the master cylinder resevoir, then release all 4 of the caliper bleed nipples. Then slowly pump the pedal till fluid stops coming from the wheels (best to get a helper to watch for you - you'll need the helper to re-pressurise the system) Also catch the fluid in jars - as its corrosive to just about anything in its way... from paint work to grass. If you pump the pedal fast, you run the risk of squirting it all over the place. Some people use thin plastic tubing from the bleed nipple into a bottle.
Then do all the nipples back up (including the master cylinder one) and the painful process begins. Fill the resevior right to the top, pump the pedal up & down a dozen or so times, then hold it down - release the master cylinder nipple breifly - until you hear the air escape - then nip it back up. Repeat until the pedal gains some feel to it (as it will sloppy & useless.) Now follow the very same procedure on all of the wheels. Have your helper in the car pumping the pedal a few times - then hold down - release & tighten the bleed nipple. Do this until all the air is out of the line to that wheel - fluid will sart coming out of the nipple. Repeat on all wheels till the pedal becomes hard again. Dont forget to top up the resevoir as you go.... otherwise you'll suck air back into the lines!
Sh*t of a process... I pay people to do it now

- Bennoz
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My bad - forgot to mention the order. KGetting the air out of the longest lines first is the key. It will work in any order but there is more chance of air getting into the long lines...Jase wrote:When bleeding the brakes start with the left rear, the furthest from the master cyl. Not sure why but that's how i was taught.
- RichardH
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