DreadAngel wrote:2. I'd like to attend trackdays sometime later so a LSD would be nice which had me looking at the GP Version R which had the helical LSD fitted. Can these be fitted to the GPX or can the GPX's Differential be modified to an LSD type?
If you're wanting to get into track days, and think you might really get into it, then my advice would be to spend a lot less money on aesthetics, and a lot more money on the real nuts and bolts stuff. At least hold off on the big spend until after you've given the whole track driving thing a go.
And by "nuts & bolts stuff", I don't mean much on changing engine bits, either. You can spend a bucketload in that area, and not improve your times/skills/enjoyment significantly at all.
For the potential track day addict, here's a list of suggested areas to throw your hard-earned cash at:
Note: this is coming from a serious FTO track addict, hehe. It's basically a list of stuff I wouldn't leave home without in terms of track driving:
- Spare set of stock rims ($200-$400).
- Set of r-comp tyres on above spare rims. Sticky, short lifespan rubber that will absolutely transform your vehicle. Bag 'em and store in the shed when not using them. Do NOT drive around on them day-to-day.
- 12 volt impact wrench, hydraulic trolley jack, for swapping above wheels on/off.
- Good high-temperature brake pads. Pagid blue, Mintex M1155, whatever. Some will squeak annoyingly off the track, but are brilliant when worked hard. $250-$400 for front. A bit less for rears. You'll wear out the front ones fast, but rears will last and last.
- Front brake discs - fit DBA-425S slotted rotors - not too expensive, which is good, as track pads will eat them alive. Under $300.
- Frequent brake fluid flushes. Use good DOT4, or DOT5.1 if you really feel the urge.
- Good major engine service. Make sure all three belts are in really good nick (timing belt, and two drive belts). Get an ultrasonic injector clean. New fuel filter. Good oil (engine, transmission). For GPX, get the valve clearance adjustment job done. You'll probably think twice about the $$$ bling shopping list once you realise how bloody much it costs to properly maintain a "track biatch" vehicle, hehe. I mean, once you've got brakes that cope with a zillion degrees without fading, there'll be nothing to stop you going round and round and round at 8000rpm indefinitely, eh!
- Good quality suspension refit (shocks, springs). Don't go hitting the track on 10-year-old factory FTO shock absorbers. They will be totally dead, and will suck. Feel free to spend whatever you want on suspension! You usually get what you pay for - just use a reputable & knowledgable specialist to set up the car, and you should be okay. Hints: 3cm clearance off the ground is probably not sane, hehe. Some suspension travel is good. Springs like housebricks not necessarily a "performance" plan...! Use someone sensible, ignore "doing it for looks" and it should handle brilliantly.
- For extra suspension geometry tweaks, a set of Pedders adjustable camber bolts and a pair of "extra castor bushes" on the front will give you a very good result, without inducing tyre-shredding camber. Keep your expensive r-comp rubber intact for as long as possible!!!
- Fit a 4-point harness. You'll drive better if you're not bouncing around the car.
- Get a pair of racing boots. Not wanky bright red SPARCO "Look at me, I'm a Formula One hero" flame-retardant crap... just a set of normal racing footwear. Buy from somewhere like Revolution Racegear. If they cost more than a set of name brand trainers, you're buying the wrong stuff! Also, if you get beaten up at Macca's on account of your boots as you stop off on the way to the track for a burger, you're buying the wrong stuff!
- Don't buy a tiptronic. hehe.
- Regarding the LSD. Hell yeah! Move Heaven and Earth to find an FTO with LSD.
- No big ICE in the boot. Or, if you must, install it in a quick-release removable manner. It'll probably get quick-release-nicked, but at least you won't be decellerating a 5 cubic foot sub enclosure and 4000W amp as you try and learn the finer points of trail-braking!
Hope this helps some!!
- Rich