2nd to 3rd gear on tipbox sounds like stalling
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- Oldtimer
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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2nd to 3rd gear on tipbox sounds like stalling
Hi Everyone,
I dont know if this a problem but here is what happens;
When I change the gear from 2nd to 3rd at around 3000rpm, it starts 3rd gear from around 2250 rpm, and accelerates normally. However, as soon as rpm reaches 2500 it stays there (sometimes even drops to 2450) while the car is still speeding up. Also, sounds like engine is stalling, then pickes up and goes normal. It is really wierd, I am speeding up but the rpm is staying same or even dropping for couple of seconds.
If I change the gears while reving high, I dont feel this. Also, this does happen 3rd to 4th gear as well but not 1st to 2nd.
I dont know if this a problem but here is what happens;
When I change the gear from 2nd to 3rd at around 3000rpm, it starts 3rd gear from around 2250 rpm, and accelerates normally. However, as soon as rpm reaches 2500 it stays there (sometimes even drops to 2450) while the car is still speeding up. Also, sounds like engine is stalling, then pickes up and goes normal. It is really wierd, I am speeding up but the rpm is staying same or even dropping for couple of seconds.
If I change the gears while reving high, I dont feel this. Also, this does happen 3rd to 4th gear as well but not 1st to 2nd.
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- Grease Monkey
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Sounds very unusual for your car to be dropping rpms and accelerating at the same time... could be a problem with your plugs...did they get wet recently? May cause a 'flat spot' at certain rpm range and you may not be feeling it in 1st cause it goes past it faster. I would check the plug leads and plugs especially if you washed out your engine bay recently.
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- Oldtimer
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- Oldtimer
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Here is what happens, to see exact outcome I am accellerating slowly.
2nd gear, around 3000rpm and shifted up to 3rd.
Starts 3rd gear around 2250 rpm. Still accerating, both spedo and rpm is increasing. When it comes to around 2500rpm, rpm indicator starts to drop, around 50-100 rpm. During this drop, car is accelerating, I mean the speed is increasing in spedo. Couple of seconds later rev starts to incerease again, as well as spedo and everything is normal.. It happens more if going up hill.
It is really wierd, momentum of the acceleration is not changing, hovewer rpm is going up, then slowing down for a little bit, and going up again.
2nd gear, around 3000rpm and shifted up to 3rd.
Starts 3rd gear around 2250 rpm. Still accerating, both spedo and rpm is increasing. When it comes to around 2500rpm, rpm indicator starts to drop, around 50-100 rpm. During this drop, car is accelerating, I mean the speed is increasing in spedo. Couple of seconds later rev starts to incerease again, as well as spedo and everything is normal.. It happens more if going up hill.
It is really wierd, momentum of the acceleration is not changing, hovewer rpm is going up, then slowing down for a little bit, and going up again.
- Black_FTOGPX
- Mechanic
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Yep I was getting the same thing around 2500 RPM on hills, the revs struggled to get past 2500RPM , but if you gave it more gas to get past 2500RPM it would rev freely.
After I installed my extractors that went away, but I think that it was more the fact that I reset the ECU.
You might want to try that.
After I installed my extractors that went away, but I think that it was more the fact that I reset the ECU.
You might want to try that.
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- Oldtimer
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I might try to reset my ECU.
I have never done this before, but is very easy thing to do.
I have an alarm system which is an aftermarket thing, which is fitted well before me. I know that, I have to know about security codes and stuff as battery will be disconected. However, my alarm does not have any keypads or any other thing. I dont even know the code, or if there is a code for it. You reckon I will be locked out? heehehe
I have never done this before, but is very easy thing to do.
I have an alarm system which is an aftermarket thing, which is fitted well before me. I know that, I have to know about security codes and stuff as battery will be disconected. However, my alarm does not have any keypads or any other thing. I dont even know the code, or if there is a code for it. You reckon I will be locked out? heehehe
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- Oldtimer
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Havent reset my ECU,
however, serviced the car yesterday, at the Northern Mitsubishi.
They said, this problem was happening due to my dirty fuel filter. So, the fuel filter changed. Cost me $35 to change it.
This morning I was driving to work and it seems that this issue has been disappeared. Car is working even smooter now.
however, serviced the car yesterday, at the Northern Mitsubishi.
They said, this problem was happening due to my dirty fuel filter. So, the fuel filter changed. Cost me $35 to change it.
This morning I was driving to work and it seems that this issue has been disappeared. Car is working even smooter now.
- smorison
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- Oldtimer
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Should be inline filter. Have to check the receipt again to make sure, but I think it cost around $35 - $50. Will post the exact part number tonight.fuel filter wich one???
the pickup or the inline filter?
what is this "TPS"?TPS?
BTW, can you believe that they changed the both alternator (aftermarket) and air con (original) belt for just over $100 including labour... I thought it is pretty cheap considering dealing with Mitsubishi.
- smorison
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- payaya
- Oldtimer
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Fuel filter is a Ryco Z441. It cost 20 something bucks from repco, 15 if you can get them trade pricesmxysxy wrote:Should be inline filter. Have to check the receipt again to make sure, but I think it cost around $35 - $50. Will post the exact part number tonight.fuel filter wich one???
the pickup or the inline filter?
what is this "TPS"?TPS?
BTW, can you believe that they changed the both alternator (aftermarket) and air con (original) belt for just over $100 including labour... I thought it is pretty cheap considering dealing with Mitsubishi.

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- Oldtimer
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Checked my receipt last night,payaya wrote:Fuel filter is a Ryco Z441. It cost 20 something bucks from repco, 15 if you can get them trade pricesmxysxy wrote:Should be inline filter. Have to check the receipt again to make sure, but I think it cost around $35 - $50. Will post the exact part number tonight.fuel filter wich one???
the pickup or the inline filter?
what is this "TPS"?TPS?
BTW, can you believe that they changed the both alternator (aftermarket) and air con (original) belt for just over $100 including labour... I thought it is pretty cheap considering dealing with Mitsubishi.
Fuel Filter Part number; MIDS504756
which cost me $35 including labour.
Sounds like a good deal to me

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- Oldtimer
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Guys,
I have been thinking that this problem still exists.
I dont think changing the inline fuel filter helped, although I thought it helped first time I received the car from service.
Also, I am starting to realise that same problem definately occures from 3rd to 4th gear in the same rev range, just like 2nd to 3rd gear at aroun 3000rpm. Having a power loss, rev is dropping while speed is increasing for a short time, and than picking up again
How can I solve this problem?
Front Spark plugs have changed about 20,000kms ago, and backs are about 50,000kms ago. Also inline fuel filter and both alternator and air con belts have changed about 1,000kms ago. In addition, I have updated to a con filter to make sure the power loss is not due to lack of air.
I have read somewhere that it might be spark plug leads or cables might cause a flat spot. How can I check this?
Regards
I have been thinking that this problem still exists.
I dont think changing the inline fuel filter helped, although I thought it helped first time I received the car from service.
Also, I am starting to realise that same problem definately occures from 3rd to 4th gear in the same rev range, just like 2nd to 3rd gear at aroun 3000rpm. Having a power loss, rev is dropping while speed is increasing for a short time, and than picking up again
How can I solve this problem?
Front Spark plugs have changed about 20,000kms ago, and backs are about 50,000kms ago. Also inline fuel filter and both alternator and air con belts have changed about 1,000kms ago. In addition, I have updated to a con filter to make sure the power loss is not due to lack of air.
I have read somewhere that it might be spark plug leads or cables might cause a flat spot. How can I check this?
Regards
- payaya
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- Slither
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Sounds like a problem i get, only get it occasionaly, but yeah when u go to change up a gear the revs surge about another 500-1000 rpm but there is no power like u've got the clutch in on a manual, then the gear goes in and you get that cluck back in your seat. Seems to only happen somewhere between 4-5500rpm
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- Oldtimer
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Nope, my problem is nothing like yours Slither,
It is in the gear for sure when this happens.
Again, my problem is after changing the gear to third at around 3000rpm, everything is OK for few seconds during the acceleration, however, as soon as hitting the 2500-2600rpm, I get a flat point where it feels like power lost for around another 150-200rpm. During this time, engine sound changes, almost sounds like it will stall, however, after 200rpm it picks up again and everything seems fine. This happens very obvious when climbing hills.
I wish I did show the car to one of you guys.
Damn!!! missed the cruise again
It is in the gear for sure when this happens.
Again, my problem is after changing the gear to third at around 3000rpm, everything is OK for few seconds during the acceleration, however, as soon as hitting the 2500-2600rpm, I get a flat point where it feels like power lost for around another 150-200rpm. During this time, engine sound changes, almost sounds like it will stall, however, after 200rpm it picks up again and everything seems fine. This happens very obvious when climbing hills.
I wish I did show the car to one of you guys.
Damn!!! missed the cruise again

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- Oldtimer
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Guys,
I reset my ECU last week and had a look at the error codes couple of days ago.
13 Intake air temperature sensor
14 Throttle position sensor
I think my problem closely related to Throttle position sensor (TPS).
I did my search and it looks like Payaya and GAV had few problem with their TPS as well, however, couldnt get enough information to what to do with mine. Also had a look at the engine manual, it is bloody confusing.
Does anyone know how yo fix this TPS error, or should I get a new one.
My car is under warranty, and I am thinking that they should cover TPS if it needs to be changed.
I reset my ECU last week and had a look at the error codes couple of days ago.
13 Intake air temperature sensor
14 Throttle position sensor
I think my problem closely related to Throttle position sensor (TPS).
I did my search and it looks like Payaya and GAV had few problem with their TPS as well, however, couldnt get enough information to what to do with mine. Also had a look at the engine manual, it is bloody confusing.
Does anyone know how yo fix this TPS error, or should I get a new one.
My car is under warranty, and I am thinking that they should cover TPS if it needs to be changed.