Where to from here?

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:16 pm

So today i managed to slip out the engine block out of the blue fto, leaving the crossmember and gbox in place.
I started to dis-assemble the block as i want the pistons and the crank out for reasons that will be divulged later in my build thread

Long story short i have taken out EVERY bolt that is possible out of the block, with only the pulley on the end - as below

: IMAG0339.jpg (155.47 KiB) Viewed 422 times

From what i can see, the crank refuses to turn anymore than a few cm either way of its current position. I have taken a 210nm impact wrench to it, a breaker bar with a tube on the end with me pushing with my leg and kicking it etc - its not going anywhere.
Really want the crank and to disassemble this thing further - any ideas? Is there something im missing or need to do?
Heres a few other pics of the block that might help

: IMAG0337.jpg (168.93 KiB) Viewed 422 times

: IMAG0336.jpg (190.62 KiB) Viewed 422 times

Any help would be wonderful, ive given up for the day i think

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:29 pm

Did you read the manual?

Post by **Bennoz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:35 pm

What you're missing is a rattle gun to get that pulley bolt off...

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:39 pm

Bennoz wrote:What you're missing is a rattle gun to get that pulley bolt off...

So the 210nm impact wrench i used is just not enough force? Is it simply a case of this bolt needing more torque?

Sahin · Post by **Sahin** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:39 pm

I've taken that bolt of before and it's a royal pain in the arse
Only way I got it off was cranking the engine with a socket wrench on the bolt resting on the crossmember
Obviously you cant do it that way so probably only coming off with a big rattle gun
It's quite a long bolt too

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:48 pm

One of the problems i had was yes, the engine moving whilst i was trying to crank the bolt, even though i sat it on its flat face - so i put the block up against a support beam of the house in the garage, which i guess acted as a crossmember, and made the engine still under cranking.
Even so, no dice, i kicked the thing, put a big impact wrench on it 210nm worth, tried everything - so my problem is im a big girl and need a bigger bar or rattle gun? Here i was thinking my air compressed impact wrench which took the wheel bolts and clutch cover bolts off like butter would of done the trick

Guess ill just have to borrow a bigger gun or make a temp bigger breaker bar bigger than 2m

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:50 pm

Sahin i also still have your oil temp gauge here, i will give it to matt next few days so you can pick it up at the DIY day.

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:52 pm

These things are torqued to something like 150ft-lb and locktite'd on!

U think ours are bad, my previous racecar was a MkIII Supra, these are torqued on at over 200ft-lb, and f**king loctite'd as well just to piss you off. I spent almost an entire day trying to get one undone on a 1JZ a few years ago.

Try getting some heat into it. And or heat cycling it a few times.

U just gotta have persistence and keep hitting it with the impact wrench over and over until it cracks.

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 5:54 pm

Ok thanks i will try that Shane, i dont have a heat gun, but ill keep at it with the wrench - its 210nm rated so it should be able to get it off, i only had it on there for a few goes, about 10-15secs each - ill keep trying maybe itll come loose

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:08 pm

Tis like breaking a rock, u just gotta keep hitting the fucker till it cracks

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:37 pm

Just had another look at your pics and I'm a bit confused

Why haven't you removed the pistons and rods? These have to come out before you can remove the crank

And looking at the manual the bearing casing should unbolt from the bottom and drop away, allowing the whole crank assembly to just drop out the bottom of the block. You should still have removed the crank pulley though, this should have been first to come off.

And how did you remove the bottom timing cover with the crank pulley still on there?

Sahin · Post by **Sahin** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:41 pm

Taz wrote:Sahin i also still have your oil temp gauge here, i will give it to matt next few days so you can pick it up at the DIY day.

Oh cheers I'd forgotten about that lol

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:46 pm

Heh,
Ive literally just undone every bolt i could find on the thing after sh*t didnt start coming off in the order i was expecting - the crank is seized up or something as i wont turn at all, unless im missing something.
Dont know half the things i took off or on what order, theres literally once bolt left on the pulley that i can access - even undid the rod bolts (or whatever the f**k theyre called) that hold them onto the crank, theres 3 left i cant get to as the crank wont turn at all basically - which is why i gave up on getting the pistons n rods out.
Everything else just came off, a few of them were a prick to get to, but i got all of them.
Everything thats left on seems to be in some way held in/on by the crank or something else i need to take off first, and the only thing i can find is the pulley bolt.

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 6:55 pm

You've seized the crank as you've loosened the bolts that hold it in before you've removed the pistons and rods.

In other words, next time read the manual first

I'd suggest have a read of the manual, then put it all back together to the point where you would have started removing rods and pistons, and hope you haven't completely fucked it by cranking it with an impact wrench while it was jammed

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:03 pm

I tried cranking it when the block was completely intact too, yet still wouldnt turn, so i tried taking the thing apart to see if that would help :facepalm:

If the engine was waterlocked or whatever would that prevent it from turning at all?

Im not too fussed to get it all out, i mean it would be nice but if ive fucked it then meh, in the wheelie bin it goes, i dont NEED anything from there, just means i dont get my coffee table

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:05 pm

Was it seized before you've started undoing the rods, or after?

I expect there is probably a specific order that they need to be undone / removed in.

But if it's only for a coffee table just get the angle grinder out! That'll fix it

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:15 pm

I tried cranking it while it was still in the car, then when it was the complete block, then as you see there, the crank wouldnt turn at all, so i assumed it was completely effed and that it might help if i take everything off of it and see if that helps, clearly not haha
Think i might just bin the thing, more effort than its worth - least its light enough to pick up and put in the wheelie bin with another person, its the councils problem now

mikeey01nzl · Post by **mikeey01nzl** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:55 pm

you could always try and use that f**k off tool you tryed to use the last time anyone gave you a suggestion?

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:57 pm

I wouldn't be putting that in a wheelie bin dude

Just take it to the nearest scrap metal yard.

But yeah for future reference, it sounds like you probably had seized rings. An overnight soak in WD40 or CRC 5.56 probably would have fixed it.

Taz · Post by **Taz** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 8:00 pm

mikeey01nzl wrote:you could always try and use that f**k off tool you tryed to use the last time anyone gave you a suggestion?

You still going on about this?
You realize i was talking to matt and his comment about aldi right? (the last post before that one, that happens to fit in with the whole 'where i buy it from' comment as well?)

FTO AUSTRALIA