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Moving Battery
Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:20 am
by Boris
How many people have moved their batteries into the boot?
How would you run the wiring, under the car, or throught the firewall and under the carpet?
Does the battery have to be any special battery? Because the workshop that i asked said it does, and it will cost lots... but i think they were just avoiding the job.
With my normal battery, if I get battery box will it be ok for track use?
Also, should I do this myself, or leave it up to the pro's... what kinda pricing am I looking at if I do ask a mechanic to do it? Cos most of them over quote by tons, or don't want to do it.

Re: Moving Battery
Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 11:49 am
by SilentBob
Boris wrote:
How would you run the wiring, under the car, or throught the firewall and under the carpet?
I would imagine though the firewall and then under carpet would be the safest and most 'long-life' solution....
as for difficulty I dont imagine it to be to hard with the correct cabling...after all, its similar to running the power from the existing battery to say an audio amp in the boot/rear of the car, just in reverse(kinda)...
as long as the battery was mounted securly and protected I dont see why a 'special battery' would be needed, the extra 1-2 metres of wire wouldnt hinder the performance by much if at all
my 2 1/2 c(hey my knowledge and guesses are worth more than just your average 2c

)
SilentBob
Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 12:02 pm
by GPXXX
my battery had to be moved to the boot because otherwise there'd be no room whatsoever to mount my turbo...
all cabling is run beneath the carpet... i had to switch to a 660cca battery and it's a massive bastard but i was assured that i WILL need it... *shrugs*
should come in handy when i get the rest of my ICE system sorted out hehe...

Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 1:59 pm
by Boris
So, the cables then runs on the passenger side of the car, ubder the carpet right? Is it there like a lump where it runs?
Hmm, I shall have to have a look at some setups at the cruise.
Posted: Wed Jun 02, 2004 3:06 pm
by smorison
its easy to do....
the 100AMP cable is about 45.00 per meter and you should by extra (say 4 meters) to make sure you don't have to try and make a join somewhere...
running through the firewall is easy just make sure you have a grommit in there to stop it rubbing through the plastic shielding...
mount it with a battery box in the boot drilled through the floor to ensure that its say and stable.
i would also add a fuse / kill switch to the outside of the box to make things extra safe

Posted: Thu Jun 03, 2004 11:36 am
by Jono
yes, boris
i think u should be able to do it..
the only thing is, u need to get a decent ground in the boot,
u might have to Scratch off some paint and get some special' paste or paint for electrical purposes so that grounding wire connects to the chassis really well...
I had Evo motorsports redo my grounding.
Jono
batteries
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2004 9:21 am
by elmo
The "special" battery they mentioned may be a sealed one so in the event of a rollover no acid leaks out, although that will probably be the least of your worries.
I think there is a regulation that you have to change it if your battery is inside the car or the boot.
I've been wrong before though.
Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 1:16 pm
by efteoh
just curious, what would the rating of the fuse be if i relocated the battery to the boot? 60A?
Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 1:28 pm
by mxysxy
Hey guys, as a newbie, I will stick my apprentice question in here,
What part of the car is the firewall?
Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 1:36 pm
by ruchi
the piece of metal that divides the engine bay from the cabin.
Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 1:38 pm
by mxysxy
thanks Ruchi, you are a Sensei
Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 2:51 pm
by smorison
efteoh wrote:just curious, what would the rating of the fuse be if i relocated the battery to the boot? 60A?
you wouldn't need a fuse...
connect it directly to the existing positive wire..
earth the battery to the body in the boot..
put a safety cut off switch on the battery... also makes it easier for doing electrical work on your car

Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 3:20 pm
by barfy
If your doing this because of the CAI intake pipe from UAS theres no need to move the battery to the boot. All you need to do is make the top bracket that fits on top of the battery smaller so that the bar will be brought in closer and then just drill a new hole in the battery tray for the bar to go into
I took it to auto place asking them to move my battery to the boot, but they came up with the above idea which only cost $30

Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 3:39 pm
by smorison
mines going in the boot to move weight to the back of the car and for a couple of other reasons you'll all find out about eventually

Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 3:42 pm
by ruchi
can I have a guess?

Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 3:44 pm
by mxysxy
man, we should orgainise a turbo kit group buy..
Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 3:49 pm
by smorison
ruchi wrote:can I have a guess?

sure

Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 3:50 pm
by smorison
mxysxy wrote:man, we should orgainise a turbo kit group buy..
who said anything about a turbo

Posted: Thu Aug 26, 2004 9:02 pm
by Jeff
I paid $700 to relocate and a new heavy duty battery, and battery box. They ran the cables under the car but fixed them throughout. It was a little expensive but the professional job was worth it.
The turbo is going in now.
Jeff
Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 2:41 am
by Jono
Wow,
thats allot..
For me, a new battery $80 + Box $30 + cable $50
And a professional to reground in the boot... $30
so all up $210
Jono