FTOWA Induction System - that good ol' West Coast magic!

RichardH · Post by **RichardH** » Sun May 30, 2004 1:36 am

Hi all.

Just uploaded a big article on some serious induction R&D I've been bashing away at for several months...

http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart10.html

It's quite a read!

The short form is... an induction system that gives extra torque from 4500rpm on, looks stock and has no downside. Unless you count the fact that it's pretty quiet a downside!

Enjoy...

- Rich

Chiangstar · Post by **Chiangstar** » Sun May 30, 2004 2:39 am

thats quite an interesting article....was the only change you made from version 1 to version 2 the addition of the rubber boot?

mrx · Post by **mrx** » Sun May 30, 2004 8:11 am

That is a very interesting read indeed. I have to wonder just what figures could be possible if some more "direct" airflow was used to the filter box. True, the filter will get dirty quicker, but that is a small price to pay.

Will be investigating this in the near future (hopefully next week). Very professional looking job, and a well pieced together article.

Great job! Can't wait for version 3.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Sun May 30, 2004 9:31 am

nice! but i dunno bout that home dyno test??? Might as well use a G-tech meter?

ruchi · Post by **ruchi** » Sun May 30, 2004 12:08 pm

In terms of producing a "dyno" graph the home dyno test will be more accurate than a G-Tech unit.

In terms of actual HP values however, they can't be truely represented until we find out what the CD (drag coefficient) of the FTO is.

BTW... nice induction kit.

RichardH · Post by **RichardH** » Sun May 30, 2004 1:00 pm

Thanks for the feedback!

> possible if some more "direct" airflow was used to the
> filter box. True, the filter will get dirty quicker, but that
> is a small price to pay.

Having driven a motorkhana day in a lake recently, my priority is to protect that intake duct as much as possible! For me, it's gotta stay high and dry, suck nice cool air and avoid ingesting stones and dust. Other people will no doubt have different priorities if they don't do watersports.

> was the only change you made from version 1 to version 2
> the addition of the rubber boot?

Yes... that and reshape the intake pipe at the end of the boot. It then used the entire 95mm exit hole, and moved the smaller 70mm bellmouth pipe entry away from the airbox to the far end of the boot. It's now more like the big factory airbox exit pipe.

> can't be truely represented until we find out what the
> CD (drag coefficient) of the FTO is.

A while ago, I went to a "real" dyno, then straight away did a "home" dyno run. I then tweaked the CD and other figures so it generated the same graph as the real world run did. But since then, I've changed the tyres, pressures, removed the sub, etc. etc. So it's no longer representative. I'd have to do another real dyno to recalibrate, and then do back-to-back induction tests using Home Dyno. All in good time!

- Rich

ruchi · Post by **ruchi** » Sun May 30, 2004 2:12 pm

RichardH wrote:A while ago, I went to a "real" dyno, then straight away did a "home" dyno run. I then tweaked the CD and other figures so it generated the same graph as the real world run did.

Yeah I saw that, but going from memory you had the CD around 10 whereas the FTO's will be closer to 30.

Dannyboyau has asked Joel to add this to his list of questions to his inside contact as Mitsubishi, so once we have this info you'll be able to plot it a lot more acurately.

RichardH · Post by **RichardH** » Sun May 30, 2004 4:12 pm

Yeah, I chose whatever variable settings would match the real world graph. I dimly recall that one input setting affected the "angle" of the curve, and another affected the vertical "position" of the curve.

Despite all this, I reckon if I were ever to want to publish hard figures, a real world dyno would be the only way to go.

But for trial-and-error testing of stuff like that induction system, it's the shape of the curves that matters. And the shape of that Version 2 run had me jumping up and down, for sure!!!

- Rich

wildfaye · Post by **wildfaye** » Sun May 30, 2004 5:37 pm

Hey Richard,

How bout those heat reducing paint for the extractors, do u reckon it'll work on the induction pipe?

Sam

RichardH · Post by **RichardH** » Sun May 30, 2004 8:39 pm

I'd read recently that there's so much air travelling through the induction system, and so little of the volume consumed spends any time "touching the sides", that it just doesn't have a lot of time to pick up vast amounts of heat from the pipe it's running through. The litres a minute consumed at 8000rpm is just massive!

But I'm no flow dynamics engineer. I just tinker until I get a result, hehe. I could be mistaken!

- Rich

Post by **smorison** » Mon May 31, 2004 7:08 pm

nice work...

only question is on the battery... will this work with standard batteries??? doesn't look like there is enough room there.

RichardH · Post by **RichardH** » Mon May 31, 2004 11:30 pm

Nope, it won't fit at all with a standard battery. So this isn't going to be a straightforward option for most FTOs.

For the setup described, the battery either needs to be very low, or relocated altogether.

I went for the "very low" option, and installed that Odyssey battery.

Given that GRs have a big fat MAS unit straight after the airbox, I doubt this is a NIVEC-friendly setup either.

- Rich

RichardH · Post by **RichardH** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 1:31 am

I've updated that FTOWA Induction System article with real world dyno results, pretty pics and some stuff about pressure drops across the intake.

Enjoy...

- Rich

GPXXX · Post by **GPXXX** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 11:10 am

you've done one helluva great job Richard - cheers! *both thumbs up*