FTO AUSTRALIA

Shane001 wrote:A bit of advice from someone who's been there / done that.

Be very careful of upgrading to a dual sided caliper (pistons on both sides). Do a bit of research on rotor runout. If you have sliding calipers (pistons only on one side) as are stock on the FTO, these type of caliper are not as sensitive to rotor runout as dual sided calipers. With dual sided calipers you need to keep the runout at the outside of the rotor to less than 0.05mm (or 2 thou in the old language). Anything more than that and you will likely start feeling it in the pedal, especially when you get em hot. Whereas with sliding calipers, you probably won't even notice it until it gets over 0.10mm (4 thou) as the caliper takes up some of this movement in the sliding mechanism. Trust me, unless you have machined hubs (preferably floating) and floating rotors, keeping the rotors to a managable level of runout is a lot of work.

As some of you know I race an FTO, and as long as you have decent rotors on the front (I'm currently running DBA4000), decent pads (the Ferodo's are good but wear out quick, I'm currently running Project Mu on the front, but this is for race only), decent pads for the rear and decent fluid (I use Motul RBF600), you will have no problems with the FTO brakes. I competed in a 1 hour race at Oran Park in November last year, in 40 degree heat, and had absolutely no issues with brakes.

Once you start upgrading major systems like brakes (especially if they don't really need it) it starts to become very expensive, as one thing then leads to another which then creates another problem that needs fixing, etc etc. Or you drive the car in a compromised and potentially dangerous state (ie do you know what will happen to your brake bias with these updated kits, moving the brake bias from stock can be very dangerous).

HTH.

J wrote:what series pads are you using

J wrote: ben - do these brake upgrades have mounts or do these have to made up to run on our fto's? i warped my fronts on my last track day so seeing these could be an option is really tempting.

rotor diameters?
minimum rim size?
come in kits/braided lines?
need to upgrade the brake resoviour (spelling?)?

Bennoz wrote:

J wrote: ben - do these brake upgrades have mounts or do these have to made up to run on our fto's? i warped my fronts on my last track day so seeing these could be an option is really tempting.

rotor diameters?
minimum rim size?
come in kits/braided lines?
need to upgrade the brake resoviour (spelling?)?

Its a complete kit from UAS.

You get PBR 2 pot calipers that were the same as VP, VN, VR & Vs HSV's (also used in C4 Corvettes & Commodore Cup cars)
330mm rotors, braided lines, mounting bracket for the calipers. Minimun wheels size is 17". Whilst you don't have to upgrade the master cylinder, I did because mine was GR.
The GR unit has a bore size of 7/8, GPX is 15/16 & the one I bought was off a Pajero (from RPW in Perth) is a 1" bore.

UAS did me a deal, the lot for $1400.

If you dont want to spend that much, swapping out the little single pot GR units & 256mm rotors for GPX gear is a bolt on job. You go to the 276mm rotor & twin pot calipers. The GPX fronts are the same as EVO II/III.