Auto gear box Question, gear shifting point

jwa · Post by **jwa** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:39 pm

I have noticed a auto gear box thing (problem maybe?)

when under normal accelerate it change gear like this
--> arround 20kms/ph to 2 gear, 40kms/ph to 3 gear, 60kms/ph to 4 gear
which should be normal for most auto car

here it come to my question
when brake the gear will only drop from 4 gear to 3 gear, and from 3 gear to 1 gear.
example:
--> drive 80kms/ph need to brake to car stop
--> 4 gear at 80kms, when speed down to about 50kms/ph change to 3 gear
--> AND 40kms/ph, 30kms/ph, 20kms/ph, 10kms/ph gear not change at all
--> UNTIL about 5kms it drop to 1gear
It will not effect anything if i need to stop the car completly

But sometime when turning corner, when need to slow down and accelerate again due to slow car in front. IT IS A BIG PROBLEM !!
I AM ACCELERATING FROM 10KMS/PH AT 3 GEAR, WHAT THE XXXX IS THIS.

Does anyone have the same issue? or something wrong with my cpu or gear box?

Post by **Supplanter** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:50 pm

Drive it in manual mode so it can learn how you want it to drive

-Nighthawk- · Post by **-Nighthawk-** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 8:57 pm

Yep I started in auto but now I've 100% moved to the tiptronic option.

Much more fun and also a lot easier then manual. Auto likes to play some tricks sometimes

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 9:21 pm

Your tip box will go 4th to 3rd to 1st when you are slowing down unless you are going downhill when it will change to 2nd to give you extra engine braking.

When you find you are accelerating from 10mph in 3rd put the foot down further and it should change to 2nd (and sound better

)

Your ECU will adapt to your current driving style. If you are driving fast on twisty roads for example, it will hold the gear shifts to allow you higher revs. It adapts in minutes so for the first couple of minutes driving back in town the car will hold its revs until it realises what is going on and adapts back to town driving.

When a Japanese car magazine did a track test for the VR4 (similar style of adaptive tip box) drivers club here in the UK they all booted around the track in tip mode. Once they got them to do it in full auto every single one of them was actually faster.

It's a good box.

Bill

jwa · Post by **jwa** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:02 pm

So in simplicity,
if i drive in semi-auto mode and only change up gear at 3500rmp
and
only down gear at 50kms->3gear, 30kms->2gear, 10kms->1gear
then drive it only in this gear change format for let say 10 minutes,

when i change it back to normal auto mode, it will drive in my gear format, it is correct?

jwa · Post by **jwa** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:15 pm

by the way when the gear change in auto mado from 2 to 3 and from 3 to 4
i can alway feel the car has a shake at the time of gear changing.
It also happen when down gear, when downhill at 60kms gear 4 to 3 it has a BIG shake, i know is engine brake but it should shake right?

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Mon Sep 28, 2009 11:49 pm

jwa wrote:So in simplicity,
if i drive in semi-auto mode and only change up gear at 3500rmp
and
only down gear at 50kms->3gear, 30kms->2gear, 10kms->1gear
then drive it only in this gear change format for let say 10 minutes,

when i change it back to normal auto mode, it will drive in my gear format, it is correct?

No, I didn't make that as clear as I thought I had.

I should have said if you hoon around in auto on twisty roads the car will store the shift pattern and adapt to it, so if you have been keeping the foot down and accelerating hard, the car realises this and starts to make the shifts higher up the rev range, even if you dont have your foot planted to the floor. It realises from your pedal position that you have been driving the car a bit harder.

However if you drive around town the same thing happens, the car sees that you are not driving with your foot planted to the floor and changes the shift points to suit. It realises you are driving the car a bit more sedatly so changes up gears at a lower rev point to save fuel and be more efficient.

Does that explain any better?

By the way, I drive very fast around twisty Scottish roads all the time and the vast majority of the time I leave it in full auto. As I said, it's a good box and the only time I feel the need to over ride it's sensors is when I am driving slowly. It doesn't seem to like driving slowly for some reason

jwa · Post by **jwa** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:17 am

ok, understand now

how about the down gear thing

when the gear change in auto mado from 2 to 3 and from 3 to 4
i can alway feel the car has a shake at the time of gear changing.
It also happen when down gear, when downhill at 60kms gear 4 to 3 it has a BIG shake, i know is engine brake but it should shake right?

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:23 am

It could be your engine mounts are worn and are just allowing the engine to move more than usual.

I am currently waiting new mounts and I have decided to go for manual ones as these are solid mounts and should hold the engine a bit steadier.

jwa · Post by **jwa** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:43 am

The engine mount for auto and manual are different?
or interchangeable?

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:11 am

Manual mounts are solid rubber and auto ones aren't. Have a look on the Camskill site and you will see what I mean.

I hope they are interchangeable as I have bought two manual ones and I have an auto car

jwa · Post by **jwa** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:40 am

so what is the auto engine mount material like? i found the it is the same material as manual on camskill - rubber cover by metal.

and how about this
Performance Polyurethane Motor & Transmission Mounts
look quite strong to me

http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?pa ... &Itemid=31

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 8:56 am

Just replace them with standard rubber. Polyurethane units are a pain in the ass, the cabin vibration you get from them is super annoying. If you want to stiffen it up a little bit, replace the standard auto mounts with standard manual mounts. The manual mounts are a solid bush as opposed to the tip ones which are not.

Before you start changing mounts thou, go & get your tip box fluid changed. You'd be surprised how much of a difference that will make to clunky changes. Its the most neglected fluid in the car. Most mechanics forget all about it during routine maitenance.

Once you've had the fluid changed, disconnect your battery for 30 minutes. This will reset both your ECU and the tip box ECU. Then take the car for a good flogging using the manual mode - thats the quickest way to educate the tip box on how you drive, as it learns your style.

jwa · Post by **jwa** » Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:41 pm

I found the manual and auto engine mount have different part number, but i can still use manual mount for auto?

and i did the gear box oil change before 3time, 4L every time, so about 90% of the oil is new. I did feel the gear change more smooth than before, but still a bit cracking

As people said before the box will learn the gear change style on manual mode(high rev), but once the car run arround in the city for a while in auto mode, the gear change style will back to normal. Isn't this what they mean?