Help needed...

ft04me · Post by **ft04me** » Sun May 24, 2009 3:29 am

Hey guys... I'm looking for someone with great knowledge on servicing the Fto...

I want to replace my oil transmission but don't have the mechanical knowledge nor the tools needed. I ask mitsubishi and they said $220 plus filter!

Also need a hand installing my angel eyes...

I will attempt to do my spark plug sometime soon.. If not then I may need a hand too.. LOL

Post by **vipfto** » Sun May 24, 2009 2:47 pm

where you located?
not sure on good price for oil but maybe bit steep i feel.....
front plugs easy rear ones more difficult as have to remove manifold
angel eyes are simple but can be stuffed up easily

J · Post by J » Sun May 24, 2009 11:08 pm

vipfto wrote: angel eyes are simple but can be stuffed up easily

agreed. you have to take of the front bumper, take off the headlights, bake them in the oven

--- i suggest at a lower temperature, i did mine at 150degrees. it takes longer but you have less risk of burning the lenses.

...... if you need a detailed how-to just pm me

Tippin · Post by **Tippin** » Mon May 25, 2009 12:18 am

coincidently enough i went out and bought my oils and a new filter today, went down to repco

For $135 i got:
- Penrite 5L 10w40 fully synthetic engine oil
- Penrite 2.5L 75w90(i think) manual transmission oil
- Engine oil flush
- Oil filter

didn't get round to replacing my gearbox oil as it was getting dark but engine oil is pretty straight forward

1) If you are using a engine flushing agent, before changing your oil pour the bottle in through your engine oil cap and turn the car on and let it idle for 15 mins.

2) Turn the car off after 15 mins and jack you car up. Grab a 17mm spanner and large tub (also lay some cardboard underneath so oil does not get onto the surface your working on). There is a drain plug on the bottom of the sump which u need to undo, get some good leverage and have the tub ready to catch the oil.

3) Allow about 40 mins to drain the engine completely

4) The oil filter is located under your front exhaust manifold, this is easily undone with your hands. Make sure you have the tub underneath as a small amount of oil comes out of here too.

5) After there is no more drainage. Oil up the seal on your new filter with your new engine oil and twist back on hand tight.

6) Now put your sump bolt back on, you are supposed to replace the washer on it but mine did not look too bad so i just gave it a clean with some degreaser.

7) Pour 4.3L of your new oil in and turn the car on for about 10 mins

Done

ft04me · Post by **ft04me** » Mon May 25, 2009 12:23 am

thanks tippin..

whats the best way for tackling the oil filter?

me and my mates always spend 20mins taking that bugger off... lolz

i find that going from underneath to be the best...

after i come back from qld i might spend some time on the spark plugs and the transmission... BTW mines is automatic!

ft04me · Post by **ft04me** » Mon May 25, 2009 12:24 am

..btw im located in sydney!

Tippin · Post by **Tippin** » Mon May 25, 2009 12:52 am

yeh, not hard just twist it off.

I did it from underneath because my extractors were too hot but can be done either way.

Yeh im also looking at doing my sparkies maybe next weekend. I have a manual so wont be able to help you there, apparently it is done differently

ft04me · Post by **ft04me** » Mon May 25, 2009 1:24 am

what kind of sparkies are u gonna put in and how much are they?

hmmm how do u take the manifold off?

Tippin · Post by **Tippin** » Mon May 25, 2009 2:23 am

either platinum plugs (apparently more power but dont last as long) or NGK iridiums (more durable)

never taken the manifold off, but shouldn't be too hard

zuihoujueding · Post by **zuihoujueding** » Mon May 25, 2009 7:35 pm

are you initially talking about transmission oil service or engine oil service??

Valandis91 · Post by **Valandis91** » Mon May 25, 2009 7:55 pm

Tippin wrote:either platinum plugs (apparently more power but dont last as long) or NGK iridiums (more durable)

never taken the manifold off, but shouldn't be too hard

i thought it was the other way with the spark plugs?

Post by **vipfto** » Mon May 25, 2009 10:33 pm

platinum or iridium will both last 3x longer than standard plugs and as for performance both are better than standard not really much difference between the two

and oil filter can be tighter than just by hand.... if this is the case then a filter wrench tool may be of use but i always found on the fto that it was almost impossible to get them on it properly. So i used to just bang a screwdriver into filter and use that to lever it loose, just be careful not too put it in too colse to the thread for filter.

and always just put a little bit of oil around the seal of new filter to create a good seal to motor

manifold is easy to remove there is DIY in DIY section

just be careful of gasket even though its metal it can still crack or break

martyjer · Post by **martyjer** » Tue May 26, 2009 12:35 am

Its actually advisable to tighten the filter by hand, I personally would never tighten it with a tool as it naturally tightens itself due to the expansion of the filter when the oil is warm. Then in turn makes it a hell of a lot harder to take off if tighted by a tool. Take it off using a belt or a chain wrench, there are also special sockets you can get that fit onto a rachet wrench for taking all types of filters off, those I find are brilliant for taking off the filters. Simple to take them off, only problem is the little metal piece for the run off of oil is located directly below the filter which makes it tough sometimes to get a wrench onto the filter.
Another thing to watch for is your sump plug, when loosening it be careful the pressure of the oil doesnt pop it out into the can your using for the old oil, not nice to go rooting around inside in that for a small little plug if it falls in believe me!

ft04me · Post by **ft04me** » Tue May 26, 2009 12:43 am

zuihoujueding wrote:are you initially talking about transmission oil service or engine oil service??

yeah was talking about the transmission.. automatic trans!

Tippin · Post by **Tippin** » Tue May 26, 2009 1:45 am

zuihoujueding wrote:are you initially talking about transmission oil service or engine oil service??

got any tips on changing manual gearbox oil?

im still not 100% sure on where the drain and filler plugs/bolts are located ...

zuihoujueding · Post by **zuihoujueding** » Tue May 26, 2009 2:03 am

LOL. seems like the whole thread is about engine oil change not trans oil change. I have got some genuine mitsu engine oil filter, let me know if you need it.

zuihoujueding · Post by **zuihoujueding** » Tue May 26, 2009 11:03 am

Tippin wrote:
zuihoujueding wrote:are you initially talking about transmission oil service or engine oil service??
got any tips on changing manual gearbox oil?

im still not 100% sure on where the drain and filler plugs/bolts are located ...

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/2733/t ... inplug.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5127/dsc01576q.jpg
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/3249/dsc01579p.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1339/dsc01584a.jpg
DIY to manual transmission oil change.
What you need:
1) 2.2L of manual gear oil. I am using Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 in this case. They come in 900ml per bottle so I need 3bottles.
2) A rubber tube of internal diameter 0.8mm for easy filling. I am using an 80cm long tube in this case.
3) A spanner set. Couldnâ€™t remember the size so you have to figure it out.
4) A new washer for the filler plug and drain plug. They can be easily purchased from Repco. I bought a box of assorted washer sizes so you can use whatever that fits.
5) A drain pan.
6) A hydraulic jack and car stands for safety.
So here are the steps:
1) Jack up the car and secure the car stands.
2) Position the oil pan under the drain plug.
3) Use a matching spanner and remove the filler drain plug, then followed by drain plug. This is the time to use your latex gloves. Note the circle in red is the filler plug and the green circle is the drain plug.
4) Wait till the trans is fully drained, give the drain hole and plug a good wipe and secure it back with a new washer.
5) I actually pour the old oils into coke bottles to have a rough gauge on how much I need to put in. It is around 2.1L in this case.
6) Now fix the rubber tube to the oil bottle and the other end deep into the filler hole. Start squeezing! Remember you need to squeeze at least 2bottles of oil in it.
7) When you reach the 3rd bottle, slow down the squeezing and try to look out for oil overflowing out of the filler plug. When it happens that means you have the right amount of oil in it.

Wipe the filler hole clean and secure with filler plug with new washer.
9) You have successfully conducted a manual transmission oil change! 

ft04me · Post by **ft04me** » Tue May 26, 2009 2:04 pm

lol ok now auto trans...

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue May 26, 2009 2:24 pm

ft04me wrote:lol ok now auto trans...

http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... pic&t=8631