running rich
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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running rich
ok i have a few questions.
has anybody got an vacuum hose diagram to show where all the hoses go.
also.. my timing apears to be out.. can you change it ?
has anybody got an vacuum hose diagram to show where all the hoses go.
also.. my timing apears to be out.. can you change it ?
- Bennoz
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^^ agreed
If it smells like fuel, it could be any number of things from shot 02 sensor, to jammed injector, to shot fuel pressure regulator.
Checked for error codes yet?
http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart07.html
If it smells like fuel, it could be any number of things from shot 02 sensor, to jammed injector, to shot fuel pressure regulator.
Checked for error codes yet?
http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart07.html
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- Mechanic
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well i have been told by 2 mechanics my timing is out as at low revs.. more so around 1.5-2 k there is sort of tapping noise.. not the lifters.
its sluggish sounds harsh
also.. i start the car and let it warm up.. it souns like crap..(really ruff).. drive hit mivec.. and it sounds awsome.. just like it used to... then when it goes around 5k .. it just drops back in a horible sounding thing..
ill try and check coeds tomorrow, i just thought the timing was out thats all.
its sluggish sounds harsh
also.. i start the car and let it warm up.. it souns like crap..(really ruff).. drive hit mivec.. and it sounds awsome.. just like it used to... then when it goes around 5k .. it just drops back in a horible sounding thing..
ill try and check coeds tomorrow, i just thought the timing was out thats all.
- Bennoz
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Its just that its very difficult for the 'timing to be out' on modern cars such as an FTO.
If the timing is out, that means you've either stripped a notch or jumped a notch on the timing belt. Or your timing belt tensioner has packed up. Its not common, but feasible.
If that is the case, I wouldn't even be starting it. You run the risk of bashing a valve on a piston.
If the timing is out, that means you've either stripped a notch or jumped a notch on the timing belt. Or your timing belt tensioner has packed up. Its not common, but feasible.
If that is the case, I wouldn't even be starting it. You run the risk of bashing a valve on a piston.
- payaya
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- Bennoz
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- mr-charisma
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I did a lot of research on this when my Mivec wasn't working cause I thought that this was my problem at first ... This is all from what I gathered trawling the web, so I apologise if anything isn't accurate enough... If I remember correctly, Detonation sensor, also known as "knock Sensor" its apparently in the middle of the engine block (though from pictures I found it looks like it could be just under the Mivec coveror the engine cover...) Most mechanics will blab on about how hard its gonna be to get to etc.. but I think in reality its not that difficult..dB wrote:still no luck
and body know any mechanics who could help with cell code 31
If it was buggered it probably should be limiting your revs to 6000RPM & jarring when you try to go over that, basically the car will be in Limp mode & yes, it would most likely be running rich - if you're using 98 Ron Fuel it will be useless in Limp mode or when your detonation sensor is playing up, because it will just treat it as regular unleaded ..
If its letting you get into Mivec sometimes, but not others then it could be a wiring issue, pretty sure if the sensor is completely dead it shouldn't let you get into mivec at all.. so an auto electrician might be able to suss it out without even going near the actual sensor - but then again they're most likely to charge you for 50 hours of fault finding without actually finding a fault..
. Also the nasty tapping or "knocking" sounds you're hearing are most probably misfiring caused by detonation sensor, it would put the spark out of whack..
If you send a PM to 'SilverFTO' he had his fixed earlier this year I think, from memory it cost him $300-400 (bloody cheap) at Joe & Rick's but I have heard of it costing anywhere between of $500-800 - might be worth a drive up to J&R's at the Gold Coast even if your car is running rich

Either that, or give Unique Auto Sports or Ben's mechanic a call... or trawl through the NSW section for some decent FTO mechanics..
I think that covers everything, if you want to know anything else just ask

- Storm
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The knock sensors wiring comes out to one of the plugs near the coolant tower so you can check the resistance of it from there, also check that these plugs are on correct.
Check the sensor first at the connector, IIRC it only has two pins and there should be a continuous circuit.
Another way to check is to disconnect the sensor plug and if the symptoms stay the same then you have the culprit
The sensor itself is between the cylinder banks so its plenum off, intake off then replace sensor. Not really a difficult job but a bit time consuming.
HTH
Check the sensor first at the connector, IIRC it only has two pins and there should be a continuous circuit.
Another way to check is to disconnect the sensor plug and if the symptoms stay the same then you have the culprit

The sensor itself is between the cylinder banks so its plenum off, intake off then replace sensor. Not really a difficult job but a bit time consuming.
HTH
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