FTO AUSTRALIA

I have heard something about stock internals holding up to 10psi but I don't think it was on a FTO, I have seen on a web site an Acura RSX Type S with a jackson racing supercharger running 9psi with stock internals, only modification to the engine was 440cc injectors and a Hondata ECU Kpro which I think is the stock computer modified, I think it made 200+hp at the wheels.

SchumieFan wrote:yeah i meant 2.9

http://www.cardomain.com/id/legnumvr4


its a bit old

I don't remember rhys ever saying anything about stroking his engine.

I know Mante in the USA was talking about stroking and boring his 6A13 motor out to around 3ltr. his is in a US spec galant

So Dannyboy, do you know if the crank is the same as the 6a12? I would assume it is. So you're saying that if I lower my compression, upgrade to forged pistons and rods the crank should be able to hold 15psi easy. I wouldnt want to go above that for sure and would probably retain no more than 10psi daily.

Where did you get the rods and pistons? I'm interested since I believe they may be able to work back and at the same time reduce my compression without having to get a thicker head gasket. Only concern is valve seating.

there was a 6a12 turbo version in the japanese galant early to mid 90s think it was 92-96.

I got my rods made by argo here in australia and pistons by ross in the US

My crank is holding 20 PSI and when you compare the 6A12 to the 6A13 crank they don't look much differant

With the car tuned, do you know much power it makes, and if any chance any 1/4 mile times, I can't wait to see what your car can do!!!

From what I can tell 7psi on stock internals seems to be pretty safe

My tip has been running that for quite a while now and is holding together beautifully.

Oddly the alternator seems to be the weakest link in the chain.
I'm getting close to having burnt out my 2nd one now.
Although admittedly the current one was second hand.

But yeah....forgies and 10+ sounds soo sweet.

Awsome work on the car BTW.
Can't wait to hear how she runs.

WR

WildRide wrote:From what I can tell 7psi on stock internals seems to be pretty safe

to a certain extent, yes - provided that the A/F mixtures are not too 'edgy'... for example you could run 7psi all day but if you are running with too much timing on the ignition map, you can say bye-bye to the engine very very quickly...

so how did you go with the recent re-tune WR?

I have my timing advanced 2 degrees before boost and retarded 3 degrees once boost kicks in. I dont hear any detonation so far but I tuned on normal pump gas initially and I'm using octane boosters now just to give me a small margin of safety.

I think properly tuned and maintained, given the weather is not too hot you could comfortably run 8psi daily without worrying too much but that would be a bit on the edge and I dont live living there constantly

Got to get my hands on a g-tech though.
Next thing I'm doing is running a couple t-joins from my wiper bottle and connecting them to two sprayers mounted on the front bumper to spray the intercooler. Then I'm hooking them up to my emanage and setting it to turn on when full boost comes on.

The re-tune went v. well.
It's not so much a torque curve as a torque wall
Damm thing just goes vertical

Will be going back in, in a few weeks for some final touches.

See the Vic forum for more raves about the work at RevZone.

WR

hey just out of interest, have you allowed for temperature correction on that tune? i noticed that particularly on hot days, no matter how much timing you take out, it will still ping very lightly (not audible from outside, but it still registers on the knock sensor) :shock:

that is why, you never go cruising with a turbo car on a 36+ deg day lol...

I had the 6A12TT VR4 back in NZ, use to run 15psi all day everyday. i then converted it from twin turbo to single turbo, i made 163Kw atw on 7psi, boost cut was around 18psi on the stock computer, but i ran 15psi on the single setup for ages... no problems at all.

i havent heard anything breaking in the motors. I have heard rumours about the con-rods been weak, but i have never heard of one bending.

i do happen to have a spare set of stock 6A12TT pistons and rods.

Yes I did take the temp into consideration. Fortunately for me our temperature is fairly steady. When I tuned I didnt hear any det but I still retarded by 3 degrees just in case. Our temperatures rairly see above 30.

How much stronger are the 6a12tt internals to the 6a12? Obviously the compression is a lot lower(8.5:1?) but I would imagine that if you could get away with 15psi daily then with a slightly lower compression(9.5:1?) you could run around 10psi on the 6a12 given the internals are similar.

i havent actually had a N/A open before, but taking a wild stab, i'd guess the N/A engine might not have piston oil squirters to help cool the piston.

apart from that, im pretty sure the roads/crank etc are the same as the TT version.

im not 100% sure though.

Does anyone know what size piping he is using?

Hi people this is the owner of the vr4 that redline was speaking of. Redlines car was a great project. Painted silver with body kit upgrades. Yeh and i don;t see whats all the dificulties i installed my vr4 engine in 2 days. I see guys talking about 3 months and the harness mating took about 45 mins to be sorted out to mate vr4 harness to fto harness

wow mivec24, so is the vr4 engine in your fto now? you must be a mechanic to do it so quick.

Yeh my mate Adz had to get a whole heap of funky piping for the turbo done to his...

2 days is unreal...

his took 12 months to fit the 6a13tt...

Had to convert to single turbo, install the legnum harness, microtec ecu, etc etc...

Your serious 12 months.Lol thats crazy 12 months. The most difficult thing is the wiring part. The engine part is nothing took myself and two of my friends about 3 hours to get engine in the engine bay.You first have to make sure the driver side or right engine mount is on first then get on the gearbox mount and your set. Stock radiator fits in but u can;t use stock radiator fans any more. mounts bolt up just use vr4 engine harness and i had to get my electrician guy to wire me up or to mate vr4 harness to fto harness that took about an hour the most car was swinging everything after that.Dont forget only difference between my fto and vr4 is that one is air flow meter and the other is map so we had to source the harness for the air flow meter and it works right back. That was my first set up.

SchumieFan wrote:yeah its quite easy to say gr's r better than gpx's when youve got a turbo bolted onto it!

flag, im gonna stay non turbo, petrol costs too much.... but give it 6 months and ill prob change my mind.... i was acctually thinking of the older 2L vr4 engines instead of the 6A13TT's that are a tight fit... dont you have to remove part of your firewall to fit this in???


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