why so slow

General Questions and comments

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Blondy
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Post by Blondy »

Bennoz wrote:
Blondy wrote: Other upgrades: de-cat
Not here Blondy... we get absolutely crucified if caught without a cat. Lika a mega $$$$ fine.
:oops: Doh!!!! That's no good. :evil:
As for mods, have a chat to Mr Bishi as he appears to have one of the fastest N/A FTOs around at the moment.
Yes he has, but not for too long I hope. :twisted:
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poster
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Post by poster »

Boris wrote:I have a MIVEC controller, and i can summarize that it is not very usefull. Mitsubishi made it pretty perfect. I say leave it at what it should be!

Do you have stock excractors or aftermarket ?

i have an aftermarket extractors. and the honda accord was not modified at all!!!!!! and i still lost to it....
it really had lot more power then now....
what is happening with my fto!?!??!?! :x :(
RedlineGX
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Post by RedlineGX »

Check your timing belt is on correctly and that your O2 sensor is working well. Also make sure your foot is going flat on the accelerator :lol:
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poster
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Post by poster »

nice! there is some work for me to do in my short holiday!
but may i ask how to look up those things.. :oops:

and u mean foot flate on the accelerator meaning peddle on the floor??haha
thanks
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jonowong
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Post by jonowong »

what petrol are you using?
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ahew
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Post by ahew »

poster - just save yourself the hassle and take it to a reputable workshop and they'll be able to check the timing for you. even if it requires a small dyno run to check everything is ok it saves a lot of time and pain. it could be something as weird as you're having a vacuum leak, or you're timing is a little off, or but it'll take you ages to find out. nobody here can actually physically see anything wrong with your car from what you've described (ie. the mods that you've done) so this would be your best bet as there's only so much that we can suggest.

if they say there's nothing wrong, well then we know it's pebcat :) hehe
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Boris
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Post by Boris »

I also suggest you coming along to the next FTO meet, and safely "compare" your fto to others. :wink:

But, a dyno check up always helps.
Mine is fairly modded and it goes pretty well. 8)

There are many many things that could be causing it so it's not even worth making a list.

Let us know what happens!
Name: Boris
Location: Canberra
Rides: Mitsubishi Evo 8 MR, Volvo XC60 & 3 push bikes!
Raven
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Post by Raven »

ahhh, cheers
Whats an FTO?
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poster
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Post by poster »

i think thats the right idea..i will love to go on a cruse meet with all of u's!!
will come next time for sure!

has anyone suggested dyno place for ftos.? Melbourne East is where i am...near box hill

thanks so lot guys :D
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khunjeng
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Post by khunjeng »

there is a crusie date set for vic members...check the Vic section for details....
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MADFTO
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Post by MADFTO »

Alright time for me to make a post =P Long read so feel free to skip if you don't care about nuts and bolts of things =)

Changing your Mivec point will not improve performance whatsoever IMHO. You'd think that Mitsubishi would have put a lot of $$$ into R&D into the best changeover point for smoothness as well as power.

Anyways, back to theory, there are two cam profiles we're dealing with, both are designed to work best at a certain RPM range.

Now changing cam profiles will take a certain amount of energy. If you change it too low, you'll spend a lot of time (and energy) swapping cams, which would in effect increase energy usage and wear. (and tell me who would stay below 3.5k rpm when accelerating =P)

Change it too high, and you'll out of the effective range of the low cam and the momentum you gain from accleration will be lost at changeover.

If changing the engagement and disengagement points does create a power increase due to a more conservative setting, you'd also have to change the fuel maps to account for this, something that most standalone mivec controllers won't do to any great degree of granularity.

On cat converters: As said earlier, These little things convert toxic emissions that occur when the fuel isn't cleanly burnt into more harmless elements. If you cleanly burn all your fuel, you generally get CO2, water and nitrogen (and a few other trace emissions)

If it isn't cleanly burnt, you get nasties like CO (carbon monoxide for you not chemical people) and NOx (nitrous oxides of various forms) and unburnt hydrocarbons (unused fuel =P)

Catalytic Converters contain elements that are catalysts for CO and NOx to convert them to water vapour and CO2 (Still a greenhouse gas but it isn't toxic) Now, you're not going to be able convert everything but it does convert a majority of these elements if you're running a lambda sensor that's working correctly and the ECU is mixing the fuel correctly.
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FTO338
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Post by FTO338 »

Eric, i'm glad you back & sort things out here. :D So you still in W.A or back in Melb?
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
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MADFTO
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Post by MADFTO »

Nah still in WA =)

Will be here for a while yet =)


hehe though I am coming home for XMAS and a few weeks after that =)
Might have to hook up with the Vic crew =)
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FTO338
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Post by FTO338 »

Yeah bro, give us a buzz when u down :D
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
FTOluv
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Post by FTOluv »

Poster, i reckon the best thing to do is to come to one of the meets and we can show u how to launch :wink:
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payaya
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Post by payaya »

the FTO is not slow, in terms of its category anyway!

Think about your hopes before dragging should of been not "high" in the first place.

2.0L is still only 2.0L! Theres no denying that 2.0L is not much.
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