FTO AUSTRALIA

Alright cheers, i'll try that but i seriously have no idea how to change it... :S
Like i understand what to do, but what i would have troubles with is where do you loosen the bolts to drain it ? I know the filer is the near the input sensor and you fill it back up using the dipstick tube, and the hose is also near the input sensor.

Am i right there ?

Also what type of A/T fluid should i get ? Dstock was telling me FTO's have a certain one they like.

Hey King hit kiz, you are getting tag team help on this forum
silverGPX.....tagged.....PHIL069.....tagged.....Astron_Boy.....tagged.....

So i don't have a jack or axle stands.... :/

So i rang up the local transmission shop in Nowra and they tel me they won't touch my car because it is an import, and the only other tranmission shop around here aswell was closed, left a message at 10am and never got a phone call, so at 3 i went up there and was closed ):

Your right there PHILO69 but you forgot Bennoz after Astron_Boy

As a thought to those who might know.
If his gbox is screwed or whatnot, and his sensor takes 30 odd minutes to go into limp and detect its screwed, if he put it other sensors and it picks it up and goes into limp mode straight away, would that not suggest that the new ones are in much better condition/not effed as they pick it up and act straight away rather than giving the impression that they are worse because they dont 'last as long' as the other ones?

Astron_Boy wrote:I would not say the radiator has any issues.
As transmission fluid is not of the same chemical make up as coolant, it is unlikely that there is a blockage for the oil to not be cooled.

If the radiator was cooling the fluid correctly (heat transfered from ATF to coolant) then why is the fluid brown and burnt? If the radiator is full of grime/corrosion then the heat transfer would not be efficient enough to cool the ATF. If the ATF heat transfer unit inside the radiator or pipes from transmission to radiator are blocked, then the ATF would not have efficient flow to cool.

Taz wrote:As a thought to those who might know.
If his gbox is screwed or whatnot, and his sensor takes 30 odd minutes to go into limp and detect its screwed, if he put it other sensors and it picks it up and goes into limp mode straight away, would that not suggest that the new ones are in much better condition/not effed as they pick it up and act straight away rather than giving the impression that they are worse because they dont 'last as long' as the other ones?

I would assume that is correct, I think his transmission electrics are cactus/fried and that's why I don't believe that a fluid change will fix his issues, I am hoping I get proved wrong........but time will tell.

WATS ALL THIS FKN SPECULATION, CHANGE THE f**king BOX OIL U TWIT.

PHIL069 wrote:

Astron_Boy wrote:I would not say the radiator has any issues.
As transmission fluid is not of the same chemical make up as coolant, it is unlikely that there is a blockage for the oil to not be cooled.

If the radiator was cooling the fluid correctly (heat transfered from ATF to coolant) then why is the fluid brown and burnt? If the radiator is full of grime/corrosion then the heat transfer would not be efficient enough to cool the ATF. If the ATF heat transfer unit inside the radiator or pipes from transmission to radiator are blocked, then the ATF would not have efficient flow to cool.

Taz wrote:As a thought to those who might know.
If his gbox is screwed or whatnot, and his sensor takes 30 odd minutes to go into limp and detect its screwed, if he put it other sensors and it picks it up and goes into limp mode straight away, would that not suggest that the new ones are in much better condition/not effed as they pick it up and act straight away rather than giving the impression that they are worse because they dont 'last as long' as the other ones?

I would assume that is correct, I think his transmission electrics are cactus/fried and that's why I don't believe that a fluid change will fix his issues, I am hoping I get proved wrong........but time will tell.

Why brown and burnt? Torque converter slipping, clutches slipping, pump shot, etc etc. Even with a 100% working cooling to the transmission a stuffed transmission will always burn the oil.

2 flashes a second while driving is over heating. 1 flash you need to look at your sensors.

silverGPX wrote:WATS ALL THIS FKN SPECULATION, CHANGE THE f**king BOX OIL you TWIT.

All this passion , you must love helping King hit kiz

payaya wrote:Why brown and burnt? Torque converter slipping, clutches slipping, pump shot, etc etc. Even with a 100% working cooling to the transmission a stuffed transmission will always burn the oil.

Like they say....."Everyday is a school day"

I'm going tooo !!!!! I'm just sick at the moment as well.

And i only get 1 Flashing N while I am driving ?

And you gotta love it

2nd that of what gpx and paya said!

***manually typed in using safari on my f**ken iPhone.***

I changed the fluid today and it hasn't gone into limp mode yet and it's running heaps smooth now

Hallelujah!

Also lets just say i hope my engine bay liked being sprayed today too :l

Amazing!

You're welcome.

You can stop looking for sensors now
I picked the burnt fluid (I could smell it from here ) and I'm glad you done the fluid change before buying a transmission, it's always worth a try first
I am always reminded to KISS (even in this very thread )........Keep It Simple Stupid!

silverGPX wrote:CHANGE THE SENSORS!!

AND

Bet the problem comes back! 1 hertz is a sensor fault, so I doubt changing the oil will fix it.

payaya wrote:Bet the problem comes back! 1 hertz is a sensor fault, so I doubt changing the oil will fix it.

TPS?