Timing Belt Tensioning

onnzo · Post by **onnzo** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 11:04 pm

Hi Guys,
Doing my timing belt currently. Found out that you have to take of the engine side mount to take off the water pump.

If anyone has replaced the belt before, if all the camshafts and crankshaft are already aligned (and locked in place with clamps), do you know if it is necessary to turn the crankshaft back one tooth as the manual describes?

What is the theory behind it?

Also, what did you use to tension the tensioner pulley? They list a special mitsu part to do it?

Michael

bigpitty1 · Post by **bigpitty1** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 4:43 pm

I didn't worry about turning the the crank 1 tooth back, probably one thing you got to watch out is the cam wheels on the rear bank, they can just suddently move out of timing, I got a piece of wood jammed between the cam pulleys so they didn't move.

With the tensioner don't touch the bolt in the pulley, just take off the bolt below the pulley, on mine I found it to be alright, when I pulled the pin out of the tensioner, it came out easy but I might of been lucky.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Sat Aug 12, 2006 11:15 pm

best thing to do it mark the timing belt with white pen on old belt right on the alignment mark on head.

take old belt off align with new belt transfer the mark to the old belt to new belt and you'll know exactly where the belt is meant to go on engine.

idawina · Post by **idawina** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:51 pm

I used two 3mm drill bits poked into the two holes in the tensioner pulley. use a big screwdriver/ prybar to go between the two drill bits and rotate! then do the 14mm bolt up and bobs you uncle. when the cam belt is tensioned correctly, the pin should slide in and out of the tensioner easily. Takes a cpupole of tries to get right sometimes. always remember to rotate the crank 2 turns and re-check the timing marks + tension when your done!

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 4:45 pm

when i did my belt i did the one tooth thing at the crank pulley because when you manually crank the engine a few revolutions it tensions up the best so your marks are perfect. If you have everything ligned up at the moment, after the manual crank you will be either too advanced or retarded. But I guess if your happy with the alignment. Bit of advancement never hurts!

The tensioner should be spot on already so you can leave that.

onnzo · Post by **onnzo** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:16 pm

I ended up doing the same thing (using the two drill bits) to tension - I think I might have overtensioned mine a little. The pin doesnt insert fully but the pushrod of the tensioner is still within spec as per the manual.

For the crank shaft removal, another way of doing it is to get a piece of wood/metal - drill a hole for a pin and stick the pin in one of the crank pulleys holes.

I tightened it up this way - 135nm of torque is bloody tough to exert!

Bad news is I did all this as the car wouldnt start thinking that it was the crank angle sensor. But its all back to gether and the car still doesnt start

Ive bought a new ignition failure sensor which ill try tonight.

Mike

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:50 pm

thats not good! yeah other than the crank angle sensor theres nothing really around that part of engine!

Unless you have got the timing all screwed up!!

bigpitty1 · Post by **bigpitty1** » Mon Aug 14, 2006 7:00 pm

did you connect the engine earth strap back up, connected all the plugs on the harness back up.