I've done a site search and can't find any info....so, has anyone got a copy of the pin out diagram for an FTO 6A12 Mivec? I'd be very appreciative of a copy
I'm just about to change to an aftermarket ECU.
This is my little club rally car it's all stuffed into (It's not quite finished)
I've done this a thousand times before and no-one's been hurt........much!
pin 1 - Engine (MPI)
Pin 2 - J1850 Bus+
Pin 4 - Chassis Ground
Pin 5 - Signal Ground
Pin 6 - CAN High (J-2284)
Pin 7 - ISO 9141-2 K Line
Pin 10 - J1850 Bus
Pin 14 - CAN Low (J-2284)
Pin 15 - ISO 9141-2 L Line
Pin 16 - Battery Power
I always wondered if a MIVEC FTO engine would fit into a Mirage...
Cool
The ECU pinouts seem to be spread throughout the electrical diagrams in the electrical wiring section of the workshop manuals starting around 4-24 (p68) and going on from there.
Supplanter wrote:I always wondered if a MIVEC FTO engine would fit into a Mirage...
I know there are at least 3 Mirage in Oz that have a 6A12 MIVEC.
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
I've cut everything I can off the engine and front end, then shuffled as much crap into the middle/rearwards as possible.
But the honest answer is it'll still have plenty of weight on the front regardless. I'm not too worried about it, as a bit of weight in front helps speed downhill, and thats what actually sorts the men from the boys in rallying
Don't sweat it too much Spetz, the weight although greater that the 4 cyl, is further rearwards if you consider the rear bank. Without the inlet manifold and valve covers the engine actually looks a heck of a lot smaller.
I've done this a thousand times before and no-one's been hurt........much!
As for the ECU pin out, supplanter posted a link to fto ireland, they do have manuals there which have the pin out for the ECU
Download them all you should find what you are looking for
As for the weight. Well, I weighed my car and came with 740kg over the front wheels and 380 over the rears.
Now, obviously this is quite a bad weight distribution.
Have you done yours?
What kg/mm springs are you running?
I have 5Kg front and 4Kg rear. Bit soft, I may put the 5kg to the rear and buy some 6.5kg or so for the front, then fine tune with adjustable swaybars.
What did you move from the front to the back?
I have extractors which weigh less than the cast iron ones, want a carbon bonnet, and relocate the battery. This all up should take away about 40kg from the front I am guessing if not a bit more and with the carbon bonnet at least lower the centre of gravity at the front.
I will have to get it weighed again though as I am not going to run an FTO gearbox and hope the other one weighs less
I haven't weighed it yet, I'm scared to.
I've moved the battery, washer bottle and lots of wiring out of the engine bay. I've chopped lots off the engine itself, there were lots of really heavy brackets on it. I've got the RPW extractors too. I've removed the power steerstuff and replaced it with an electric unit that is mounted against the firewall. I've even moved the horn back to the firewall, get the idea of how focused on it we've been.
I've got 300/350 pound/inch progressives in the front and I'll get the rears for you tomorrow. Sorry I don't speak metric on spring rates.
Downloaded the diagrams, we can work the pin outs by tracing wires.
Thanks for all the info guys.
I repeat don't get bent out of shape too much about the weight distribution, it is after all a front engined front drive car. There is nothing to go in the back. This is why "hot hatches" etc handle they way they do. It takes a special knack, which is very rewarding once mastered.
I've done this a thousand times before and no-one's been hurt........much!
Gee Spetz, if you're that concerned sell it and get an EVO.
I'll PM the weights to you when I get them.
Took it for a liitle closed road test on ANZAC day.
It handles bloody well on the slow to medium speed roads I had to use.
Good turn in, neutral and Chuckable. Nice lift off oversteer to help it turn in quick too.
Have a look at this little video of it.
Believe it or not, I was using 8,000 rpm even though it sounds different.
Got the pin out figured, all tuned up and even got a few hp to the wheels.
The spectators reportedly loved the V6 roar as distinct from the turbo cars.
I've done this a thousand times before and no-one's been hurt........much!