Anyone change oil after 5000k's???
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- SilentBob
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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Anyone change oil after 5000k's???
Just curious how often you guys chancge your oil?? every 5000 or every 10000, and if every 5000 do you change the filter at the same time???
Was thinkin about changing mine(seein as its been 5000k's since the last service etc etc)
Curious....what oil do you guys use??? and whats needed when changin the oil? ie the rubber seal for the hole at the bottom, is this a standard size or would it be hard to find at a local supercheap auto etc
Thanks
SilentBob
Was thinkin about changing mine(seein as its been 5000k's since the last service etc etc)
Curious....what oil do you guys use??? and whats needed when changin the oil? ie the rubber seal for the hole at the bottom, is this a standard size or would it be hard to find at a local supercheap auto etc
Thanks
SilentBob
- smorison
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well it depends on couple of things
How do you drive? if you drive hard constantly 5000k intervals is about right. if you drive like an old granny you could probably wind it out to 15,000. if you use a product like uniglide it add's about 2000k to the service interval (for about 40.00 that's pretty nice).
What quality of oil do you use? i use Redline and Motul products, 100% synthetic oils, you can't skimp on what you pay for your oil as it is really a what you pay is what you get product. Check out this link for a basics on oils
http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... ries&cid=8
How do you drive? if you drive hard constantly 5000k intervals is about right. if you drive like an old granny you could probably wind it out to 15,000. if you use a product like uniglide it add's about 2000k to the service interval (for about 40.00 that's pretty nice).
What quality of oil do you use? i use Redline and Motul products, 100% synthetic oils, you can't skimp on what you pay for your oil as it is really a what you pay is what you get product. Check out this link for a basics on oils
http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... ries&cid=8
-
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Hi,
I probably change mine every 4000k.
There is no set distance you can drive before you can change your oil.
Put it this way, the more you change your oil more frequently the cleaner your engine will be.
But it is good not to go over 5000k if you do an average normal drive like say about 3 to 4 time a week.
And it's not really necessary to change the oil filter every time. It's good enough to change the oil filter every second time you change your engine oil. Unless you are doing a engine oil flush. You have to change the oil filter every time you do this.
I have tried numerous number of engine oils to try and see which one is the best to use. I find that Mobile 1 5w-50 is a little too thin for the car. Although I'm sure it depends on a car.
The last engine oil I used is called Mobile Gold. It's a new oil that just came out and is about $130 or some thing price. And I am quite satisfied with this one at the moment. When I need to change the oil again, I have a motul one at home, I might try this one then decide which one is a better one.
The Mobile Gold is a 0W-40. The Motul one is 0W-40 as well.
Hope this helps.
I probably change mine every 4000k.
There is no set distance you can drive before you can change your oil.
Put it this way, the more you change your oil more frequently the cleaner your engine will be.
But it is good not to go over 5000k if you do an average normal drive like say about 3 to 4 time a week.
And it's not really necessary to change the oil filter every time. It's good enough to change the oil filter every second time you change your engine oil. Unless you are doing a engine oil flush. You have to change the oil filter every time you do this.
I have tried numerous number of engine oils to try and see which one is the best to use. I find that Mobile 1 5w-50 is a little too thin for the car. Although I'm sure it depends on a car.
The last engine oil I used is called Mobile Gold. It's a new oil that just came out and is about $130 or some thing price. And I am quite satisfied with this one at the moment. When I need to change the oil again, I have a motul one at home, I might try this one then decide which one is a better one.
The Mobile Gold is a 0W-40. The Motul one is 0W-40 as well.
Hope this helps.
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- Apprentice
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I just changed my oil on saturday, and do it at every 5000k
I used Castrol Magnatec Semi Synthetic for $30 Mitsubishi Genuine Oil Filter was $10.50
I have heard some bad things about fully synthetic oil's such as they dont give adequate protection during start ups as they drain to the sump after you turn the car off, and are slow to re-circulate back through the motor. Magnatec is supposed to protect the car during startup and is what Mitsubishi Hvae recomended to me, it works very well in my FTO, no noisy tapets and seems to be nice and smooth along the rev range.
I used Castrol Magnatec Semi Synthetic for $30 Mitsubishi Genuine Oil Filter was $10.50
I have heard some bad things about fully synthetic oil's such as they dont give adequate protection during start ups as they drain to the sump after you turn the car off, and are slow to re-circulate back through the motor. Magnatec is supposed to protect the car during startup and is what Mitsubishi Hvae recomended to me, it works very well in my FTO, no noisy tapets and seems to be nice and smooth along the rev range.
- SilentBob
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well...its done 
Went out today and got the bits to do the oil change, including the new filter..
Got some Castrol Formula R Synthetic 0-40W oil, about 80bucks-ish...
(was prolly the best at SuperCheap, next choice was some 5-50W Penzoil stuff, but I used the old mentality, if it costs more it must be better, combined with the numerous 0-40w suggestions)
and should be a fair bit better than the Castrol GTX Protec (i think its 20-50w which was used during my last service)
after the tiresome jacking up of the car it was relativly smooth sailing for someone who never does any 'mechanical' work on a car...
Results...
well on initial idling I noticed a more wierd background type noise (hard to describe, kinda of like a putt putt sound) behind the general idle sound
On going for a drive I was pleasantly suprised at the improvement(be it actual or mental, or 50/50, I didnt care)...Felt like there was more power and smoother acceleration, but also(much to my pleasure) the somewhat metalic rattly sound during the initial 1-2000 rpm acceleration range had dissapeared, or at least subsided substantially....(which was good because this noise had me worried somewhat)
Ahhh....the joys of the FTO
SilentBob

Went out today and got the bits to do the oil change, including the new filter..
Got some Castrol Formula R Synthetic 0-40W oil, about 80bucks-ish...
(was prolly the best at SuperCheap, next choice was some 5-50W Penzoil stuff, but I used the old mentality, if it costs more it must be better, combined with the numerous 0-40w suggestions)
and should be a fair bit better than the Castrol GTX Protec (i think its 20-50w which was used during my last service)
after the tiresome jacking up of the car it was relativly smooth sailing for someone who never does any 'mechanical' work on a car...
Results...
well on initial idling I noticed a more wierd background type noise (hard to describe, kinda of like a putt putt sound) behind the general idle sound
On going for a drive I was pleasantly suprised at the improvement(be it actual or mental, or 50/50, I didnt care)...Felt like there was more power and smoother acceleration, but also(much to my pleasure) the somewhat metalic rattly sound during the initial 1-2000 rpm acceleration range had dissapeared, or at least subsided substantially....(which was good because this noise had me worried somewhat)
Ahhh....the joys of the FTO
SilentBob
- GPXXX
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- SilentBob
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Firstyl....how much is the motul oil?
and Secondly
a)You redline it 5 times a week...does that mean you only touch the redline 5 times, or you drive your car 5 times a week and during these drives you often redline it?
b)Where the HELL do you get a chance to redline 4th gear????? im hittin 110 in 2nd at redline....4th would be speed-limiter time
SilentBob
and Secondly
a)You redline it 5 times a week...does that mean you only touch the redline 5 times, or you drive your car 5 times a week and during these drives you often redline it?
b)Where the HELL do you get a chance to redline 4th gear????? im hittin 110 in 2nd at redline....4th would be speed-limiter time
SilentBob
- GPXXX
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I paid $76 for the Motul oil during my last service...SilentBob wrote:Firstyl....how much is the motul oil?
and Secondly
a)You redline it 5 times a week...does that mean you only touch the redline 5 times, or you drive your car 5 times a week and during these drives you often redline it?
b)Where the HELL do you get a chance to redline 4th gear????? im hittin 110 in 2nd at redline....4th would be speed-limiter time
SilentBob
a) I drive the car 7 days a week, how often or how many times it sees the redline varies... so i guess you could say the MIVEC only sees the redline 5x during the week, LOL
b) i live way out in the sticks and there's a nice long straight road on the way home from work at 1am sometimes... need i say more??


- MrThanh
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0W-40 is actually thinner than 5W-50.. the number in front of the W is the viscosity (thickness) of the oil.fto12345 wrote:Hi,
I have tried numerous number of engine oils to try and see which one is the best to use. I find that Mobile 1 5w-50 is a little too thin for the car. Although I'm sure it depends on a car.
The last engine oil I used is called Mobile Gold. It's a new oil that just came out and is about $130 or some thing price. And I am quite satisfied with this one at the moment. When I need to change the oil again, I have a motul one at home, I might try this one then decide which one is a better one.
The Mobile Gold is a 0W-40. The Motul one is 0W-40 as well.
Hope this helps.

Anyways, best to change oils at least every 5000kms IMO.
- zuihoujueding
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- Oldtimer
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I have been changing the oil every 3000kms to keep the warranty for last 3 years.zuihoujueding wrote:Thats the best thing u can do to your engine. but its rather expensive ya??Theremin wrote:Every 5000kms, Mobil 1 5w-50, new oil filter every time.think the oil still looks pretty clear after 5000km.
But your engine will love you for it!
- khunjeng
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if u decide to use a POE or Ester base oil such as Redline or the Motul 300V, 5000km OCIs are really not ideal. It takes some time for the addatives etc to get to work on your sludge and I would do mine every 10k with redline - which is what I do - you should see how clean my engine is! Also these oil dont break down nearly as fast as crap semi or even some of the full sync oils on the market as they have little to no VII addatives to help widen the visc. range.
Use a cheap oil as some of the ones mentioned then yeah 5k is prob. the length of you OCI cos they had a high VII content which breaks down more quickly and hence your oil looses some of its key properties. Many of the good POA base oils such as M1, Helix Ultra can go 10k OCIs not a problem in good condition engines.
Stick to the Motul 300V series or Redline if your serious about engine protection. If you change it 10k then your actually saving money over a 5k OCI with a $70 crap oil.
Next what grade? this has been a debate for a while. I use 10W30 Redline mainly due to its cold start cSt rating being much lower than a 40 or 50...why is this imporatnt? 90% of engine wear happens at startup so I reckon more protection there is the go and this is confirmed by nemerous other forums out there. There are also some other benifits to using a 30 over a 40/50. thicker oils have been found to run at higher oil temperatures. Thinner oils cool better and have less friction
Use a cheap oil as some of the ones mentioned then yeah 5k is prob. the length of you OCI cos they had a high VII content which breaks down more quickly and hence your oil looses some of its key properties. Many of the good POA base oils such as M1, Helix Ultra can go 10k OCIs not a problem in good condition engines.
Stick to the Motul 300V series or Redline if your serious about engine protection. If you change it 10k then your actually saving money over a 5k OCI with a $70 crap oil.
Next what grade? this has been a debate for a while. I use 10W30 Redline mainly due to its cold start cSt rating being much lower than a 40 or 50...why is this imporatnt? 90% of engine wear happens at startup so I reckon more protection there is the go and this is confirmed by nemerous other forums out there. There are also some other benifits to using a 30 over a 40/50. thicker oils have been found to run at higher oil temperatures. Thinner oils cool better and have less friction
- payaya
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- spetz
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Most FTO engine related problems though seem to be due to some sort of oil starvation.
Not only that though but with frequent oil changes and good care you can have your 200,000km engine be like a 100,000km engine
You minimise sludge and stuff
And I think you extend the powerspan of the engine from better compression due to less wear
Not only that though but with frequent oil changes and good care you can have your 200,000km engine be like a 100,000km engine
You minimise sludge and stuff
And I think you extend the powerspan of the engine from better compression due to less wear
- payaya
- Oldtimer
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Magnetec is good for the engine in a sense it makes it sound better and thats it!MintFTO wrote:I just changed my oil on saturday, and do it at every 5000k
I used Castrol Magnatec Semi Synthetic for $30 Mitsubishi Genuine Oil Filter was $10.50
I have heard some bad things about fully synthetic oil's such as they dont give adequate protection during start ups as they drain to the sump after you turn the car off, and are slow to re-circulate back through the motor. Magnatec is supposed to protect the car during startup and is what Mitsubishi Hvae recomended to me, it works very well in my FTO, no noisy tapets and seems to be nice and smooth along the rev range.
If you work on your car and actually look what it does to your internals, it leaves a burnt on oil film on your engine. Look on the under side of your rocker cover, its so thick and gives you a good indiction was it does.
The reason why mitsubishi problably recommend magnetec is because of their lifter problem, which still has not been fixed!
If other companies got them to be quiet no matter how old the engine is 30 years ago i dont see why mitsu cant.
- payaya
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But 5000.00kms synthetics are still at their peak in protection?? Anywhere near the 10000km mark is good enough.spetz wrote:Most FTO engine related problems though seem to be due to some sort of oil starvation.
Not only that though but with frequent oil changes and good care you can have your 200,000km engine be like a 100,000km engine
You minimise sludge and stuff
And I think you extend the powerspan of the engine from better compression due to less wear
New cars these days have service intervals of 15000.00kms!
What engine related problems are you refering to?? Rule out lifters because this is a Mitsu design fault.
- khunjeng
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the problem with oil is people doesn't understand it. its usually based on rumour and some stuff your dad told u a while back. The filter stuff is a shocker...people dont understand how they work and hence blindly think more changes are better.
it all depends on what brand you use and your application. "Oils are not oils" and there are many different specs & adatives even within the same brand.
If you wanna change it every 5k...do it. You wanna change your filter every 5k do it. But do it based on some facts and understanding, not cos u heard it was a good idea.
You wanna get more facts get a UOA done on your oil to see what condition its in before you change it.
as for the stuff about draining to the sump - LOL name one that doesn't? 20w-100 maybe?
Magnetic is not special and is cheap and nasty. It will work but sheers quickly and I would recommend chnaging it every 5k with that stuff...its amount of Ester content is basically so low it can't be found - and thats the bit they base the magnetic name from.
Overall I would select a better oil.
As for engine problems...which ones? lifters? adjuts and fix them if they are a problem dont buy your oil to cover up another issue.
it all depends on what brand you use and your application. "Oils are not oils" and there are many different specs & adatives even within the same brand.
If you wanna change it every 5k...do it. You wanna change your filter every 5k do it. But do it based on some facts and understanding, not cos u heard it was a good idea.
You wanna get more facts get a UOA done on your oil to see what condition its in before you change it.
as for the stuff about draining to the sump - LOL name one that doesn't? 20w-100 maybe?
Magnetic is not special and is cheap and nasty. It will work but sheers quickly and I would recommend chnaging it every 5k with that stuff...its amount of Ester content is basically so low it can't be found - and thats the bit they base the magnetic name from.
Overall I would select a better oil.
As for engine problems...which ones? lifters? adjuts and fix them if they are a problem dont buy your oil to cover up another issue.