The Suspension Thread
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- Bennoz
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The Suspension Thread
Hey guys,
I just got my car back from my mechanic who's just done the suspension for me. I went away from coilovers for a number of reasons, initially it was cost, then it was not wanting rock hard suspesion on Sydney roads - as my car is a daily driver (although it does see track time.) Now I know there are some makes of coilovers now out that can be setup to deal with rougher roads, but my decision was already made.
*Tein Pillow mount strut tops - to stiffen the ride a little, but more importantly give me the camber adjustment I was after.
*Apex lowering springs - I actually installed these earlier: but to give you a full picture.
*Full Polyurethane bushes all round - I know Max will be watching with interest... And as soon as my mechanic send me the invoices I'll post up the whiteline part numbers & prices!
*Adjustable 22mm Whiteline sway bars
*New droplinks all round
* Front & back strut braces
All in all, its a good sporty feel. The springs & strut tops stiffen the ride up, but not too stiff. The bushes give that smooth precise handling feel. New droplinks.... well its not making that crunchy noise over speed humps in the morning
All dialled in with 2 degrees negative camber, 1.5 degrees positive castor & 0.75 degrees toe in. The camber is probably a little high for street driving & I'll end up wearing the inside edges of the tyres, but I dont care. The tyres are almost gone anyway & the turn in & stability through corners is superb... looks hot too
Mmmm angly...
As soon as the invoices come I'll let you all know how much & part numbers
I just got my car back from my mechanic who's just done the suspension for me. I went away from coilovers for a number of reasons, initially it was cost, then it was not wanting rock hard suspesion on Sydney roads - as my car is a daily driver (although it does see track time.) Now I know there are some makes of coilovers now out that can be setup to deal with rougher roads, but my decision was already made.
*Tein Pillow mount strut tops - to stiffen the ride a little, but more importantly give me the camber adjustment I was after.
*Apex lowering springs - I actually installed these earlier: but to give you a full picture.
*Full Polyurethane bushes all round - I know Max will be watching with interest... And as soon as my mechanic send me the invoices I'll post up the whiteline part numbers & prices!
*Adjustable 22mm Whiteline sway bars
*New droplinks all round
* Front & back strut braces
All in all, its a good sporty feel. The springs & strut tops stiffen the ride up, but not too stiff. The bushes give that smooth precise handling feel. New droplinks.... well its not making that crunchy noise over speed humps in the morning
All dialled in with 2 degrees negative camber, 1.5 degrees positive castor & 0.75 degrees toe in. The camber is probably a little high for street driving & I'll end up wearing the inside edges of the tyres, but I dont care. The tyres are almost gone anyway & the turn in & stability through corners is superb... looks hot too
Mmmm angly...
As soon as the invoices come I'll let you all know how much & part numbers
Last edited by Bennoz on Thu Jun 22, 2006 11:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Bennoz
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- FTO338
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This setup looks good, how much did it set u back ben? Ohh hang on how much would this set a "normal" person, as u get mates rate.
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
- Bennoz
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The local Beaurepairs did the bouncy test - but yeah, pedders could do the same sort of thing for you. Get the '$14 safety check'... they'll tell you its all shot - then take it else where & tell them what you want lolshue wrote:sounds like a nice option for ppl who dont want to go all out for the coilovers. i need to get mine looked at as well. who did your "bouncy" test, should i just take mine into pedders n get them to test it for me?
I'll get my man to give me a real price for labour.FTO338 wrote:This setup looks good, how much did it set u back ben? Ohh hang on how much would this set a "normal" person, as u get mates rate.
So far the prices for bits are: (now this is me sourcing the parts)
Apex Lowering springs: $390 AUS landed (Camskill)
Front Droplinks: $102 AUS landed (Camskill)
Pillow Mounts: $355 Aus landed (Camskill)
Strurt Braces (well they were already on) so best value about are probably Kempys at the moment: $115 front, $95 rear
So far $1057...
Need to add bushes, swaybars & labour.
I would guess around $2200 tops. Not bad considering Coilovers on their own could cost that...
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Here's some more piccys of the job - did some fine tuning today...
This is the large front lower control arm bush (rear one) - this one has got the extra castor offset (ie the hole through the bush is lower than in the standard bush - giving the whole strut assembly an angle towards the front of the car (or 1.5 degree's positive castor):
These are the front bushes of the lower front control arms:
This is the connection of the new 'adjustable' 22mm whiteline sway bar to the new droplinks. The term adjustable refers to the two choices of holes that the droplink can go through as you can see. The hole we have chosen is towards the front of the car - this gives a sharper turn in feel. If we were to use the rear hole, it would give a more stable turn in, yet more susceptible to understeer. (Ignore the fact the whole assembly is touching the control arm - its because the car is off the ground):
More shots of the front sway
This is the new rear sway bar and sway bar bushes. The bushes on the old sway bar are really really shot...
Shot bush badly....
More shots of the rear sway bar:
Here is a shot of the rear droplinks on a GR - they are NOT the same as a GPX... GPX ones look like the front ones (a welded bar with 2 ball joints on it) These were really shot too - 4 bushes on each droplink to replace
Now I was under the impression that we were going to replace ALL the bushes on the ass end - not the case. THERE ARE 22 BUSHES on the ass end of a GR. THERE ARE 18 BUSHES on the back of a GPX!!
As you can see by this pic there are 2 control arms attached to each main rear arm. One on the left of screen, and one above the brake line. Each rod has press-fit bush assemblies & the only way to replace them is to replace the whole arm. They are huge bushes & dont wear easily - mine were fine. They are worth $122 and $104 to replace respectively.... and there's 2 of each!
Some shots of the other rear bushes that didn't need replacing (and are unlikely too for the time I will own the car.) Main rear arm fronts & shock absorber lower bushes:
So - lessons learnt. Bushes that are most likely to need replacing are the sway bar bushes (front and back), front control arm bushes, droplinks (front and back - in my case (GR) they were bushes on the rear) and front strut tops.
Part numbers (whiteline - made by Fulcrum - super pro type polyurethane):
Front control arm front bushes - SPF1100K
Front control arm rear bushes - SPF1500K
Front Sway Bar (adjustable) - BMF44Z
Rear Sway Bar - BMR74
The sway bar bushes came with the sway bars, so I have asked for seperate part numbers. I am also still waiting on the prices.
This is the large front lower control arm bush (rear one) - this one has got the extra castor offset (ie the hole through the bush is lower than in the standard bush - giving the whole strut assembly an angle towards the front of the car (or 1.5 degree's positive castor):
These are the front bushes of the lower front control arms:
This is the connection of the new 'adjustable' 22mm whiteline sway bar to the new droplinks. The term adjustable refers to the two choices of holes that the droplink can go through as you can see. The hole we have chosen is towards the front of the car - this gives a sharper turn in feel. If we were to use the rear hole, it would give a more stable turn in, yet more susceptible to understeer. (Ignore the fact the whole assembly is touching the control arm - its because the car is off the ground):
More shots of the front sway
This is the new rear sway bar and sway bar bushes. The bushes on the old sway bar are really really shot...
Shot bush badly....
More shots of the rear sway bar:
Here is a shot of the rear droplinks on a GR - they are NOT the same as a GPX... GPX ones look like the front ones (a welded bar with 2 ball joints on it) These were really shot too - 4 bushes on each droplink to replace
Now I was under the impression that we were going to replace ALL the bushes on the ass end - not the case. THERE ARE 22 BUSHES on the ass end of a GR. THERE ARE 18 BUSHES on the back of a GPX!!
As you can see by this pic there are 2 control arms attached to each main rear arm. One on the left of screen, and one above the brake line. Each rod has press-fit bush assemblies & the only way to replace them is to replace the whole arm. They are huge bushes & dont wear easily - mine were fine. They are worth $122 and $104 to replace respectively.... and there's 2 of each!
Some shots of the other rear bushes that didn't need replacing (and are unlikely too for the time I will own the car.) Main rear arm fronts & shock absorber lower bushes:
So - lessons learnt. Bushes that are most likely to need replacing are the sway bar bushes (front and back), front control arm bushes, droplinks (front and back - in my case (GR) they were bushes on the rear) and front strut tops.
Part numbers (whiteline - made by Fulcrum - super pro type polyurethane):
Front control arm front bushes - SPF1100K
Front control arm rear bushes - SPF1500K
Front Sway Bar (adjustable) - BMF44Z
Rear Sway Bar - BMR74
The sway bar bushes came with the sway bars, so I have asked for seperate part numbers. I am also still waiting on the prices.
- mrdj1234
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I did my front bushes this weekend - makes one hell of a difference - the bushes I used for the front pair were part number SPF1160K not 1100Bennoz wrote: Part numbers (whiteline - made by Fulcrum - super pro type polyurethane):
Front control arm front bushes - SPF1100K
Front control arm rear bushes - SPF1500K
For anyone else that's interested - full set of front bushes (front and rear pairs) - ordered through supercheap (just give them the part numbers - don't tell them what it's for) $85
It's a hell of a job changing them though - especially removing the front bushes which are a single piece press on job.
Live and learn
The handling difference is definately worth it!
nice pics of all the work too
- Bennoz
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Cheers!mrdj1234 wrote:I did my front bushes this weekend - makes one hell of a difference - the bushes I used for the front pair were part number SPF1160K not 1100Bennoz wrote: Part numbers (whiteline - made by Fulcrum - super pro type polyurethane):
Front control arm front bushes - SPF1100K
Front control arm rear bushes - SPF1500K
For anyone else that's interested - full set of front bushes (front and rear pairs) - ordered through supercheap (just give them the part numbers - don't tell them what it's for) $85
It's a hell of a job changing them though - especially removing the front bushes which are a single piece press on job.
Live and learn
The handling difference is definately worth it!
nice pics of all the work too
Its well worthwhile - my car handles like it on rails now. Mind you it took them 3 hours to wheel align the bastard Had to call in their 'specialist' guy who had done Tein tops before
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i really need a handling nerd like you to give me some tips bennoz, i kinda know what sway bar do, what's a drop link?
at the moment everytime i do hard corners my rear seems to swing out which feels like it tilt too much, using kyb adjustable & kings springs with front strut brace only, givmme some good suggestion to solve the problem
at the moment everytime i do hard corners my rear seems to swing out which feels like it tilt too much, using kyb adjustable & kings springs with front strut brace only, givmme some good suggestion to solve the problem
- dj_ules
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suspension
im in desperate need to get new front suspension ASAP. also for the back but not to concerend on them at themoment .ive got GAB adjustable shocks, my rubber mounts are cracked my adjustable part on front shocks are threaded. my front end creaks when turning as im reversing. slow or turning when im geting out of a carpark etc.
im still chasin a price on whiteline. wich are spose to be modified konis for the fto
but got a price for TEIN from unrealautosport
Tein HA with pillowballs $3019
Tein HA without pillowballs $2200
really pricey.
anyone got any sugestion for adjustable suspension i can get, ive been ringing a million places. KYB, and KONI dont make suspension for fto anymore ? peders dont have adjustables for me either. ? can anyone help thanx
im still chasin a price on whiteline. wich are spose to be modified konis for the fto
but got a price for TEIN from unrealautosport
Tein HA with pillowballs $3019
Tein HA without pillowballs $2200
really pricey.
anyone got any sugestion for adjustable suspension i can get, ive been ringing a million places. KYB, and KONI dont make suspension for fto anymore ? peders dont have adjustables for me either. ? can anyone help thanx
- Bennoz
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Put in the pillow mounts ($350 AUS)
Replace your lower control arm bushes
Repalce your front swaybar bushes
Replace your droplinks
Thats everything in the front end - it'll cure your noises & give you adjustable camber. You can also get the control arm rear bush with offset mounts, which gives you castor adjustment.
Replace your lower control arm bushes
Repalce your front swaybar bushes
Replace your droplinks
Thats everything in the front end - it'll cure your noises & give you adjustable camber. You can also get the control arm rear bush with offset mounts, which gives you castor adjustment.
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