Still got that damn knocking noise
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- kazbah
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Still got that damn knocking noise
Ok a while back I posted in here about a knocking noise in the front end when the wheels were in lock. I though at the time it was the drivers side tie rod end - as that was worn and in need of replacement. Well it's been replaced but I still have that knock. Could it be the CV joints? And if it is has anyone had this problem and been able to recify it??
Teh Ban Queen!
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- Oldtimer
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Kazbah, when the nock happens, do you feel it on the brake pedal?
Try generating the knocking on a downhill surface, while your foot is on the brake.
I have the same knocking, and happens everyday going down to my car park. And I feel that when it happens, pressure on the brake pedal suddenly lost!
I am assuming this is the top mount for the suspension. Thinking that spring is turning/rolling.
But I don’t know why I feel it on the brake pedal.
Try generating the knocking on a downhill surface, while your foot is on the brake.
I have the same knocking, and happens everyday going down to my car park. And I feel that when it happens, pressure on the brake pedal suddenly lost!
I am assuming this is the top mount for the suspension. Thinking that spring is turning/rolling.
But I don’t know why I feel it on the brake pedal.
- Bennoz
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Yep, strut tops folks...
Its the shock wacking around in it. If it moves enough you would feel a bit of movement if the pedal. If the brakes were applied when it happens - you'd be feeling this: the whole strut will move slightly - which inturn would result in the disc / hub assembly moving - hence that movement would be felt up to the brake pedal
Gotta remember the stock tops are made of hard rubber... as the cars hit 10 years old, the rubber will get harder from heat & age - the shocks have been pounding around in 'em for 100,000+ kms!
Its the shock wacking around in it. If it moves enough you would feel a bit of movement if the pedal. If the brakes were applied when it happens - you'd be feeling this: the whole strut will move slightly - which inturn would result in the disc / hub assembly moving - hence that movement would be felt up to the brake pedal
Gotta remember the stock tops are made of hard rubber... as the cars hit 10 years old, the rubber will get harder from heat & age - the shocks have been pounding around in 'em for 100,000+ kms!
- kazbah
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- Bennoz
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They are one of few 'cheap' bits you can get from Mitsubishi genuine as they are common to one of the mirage models. I beleive they are about $65 a pop. Part number is MR131420.
You need to pull the front struts out to do it - not hard, but you will need a spring compressor tool to hold the spring down whilst you swap the top.
You need to pull the front struts out to do it - not hard, but you will need a spring compressor tool to hold the spring down whilst you swap the top.
- kazbah
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SIDCHROME-ABW-CO ... dZViewItem
I guess this is what we are after for a spring compressor?
I guess this is what we are after for a spring compressor?
- Bennoz
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- FTO338
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Max have u try Chadstone Mitsubishi, they seem to have better pricing then other since Sth Melb staff had transfered there.
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
- Bennoz
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- Bennoz
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You dont have a pedestrian stuck to your front bumper?... trying to get your attention??EURO wrote:what about if you get knocking noises every time you go down a bumpy road! which is half the roads in melbourne! pot holes etc... knock knock knock knock - i hate it!

Strup top are one source of knocking - but I'd recommend getting all the suspsension chekced out in one go. No point replacing a worn strut top when other worn bits, like shocks & bushes, are just going to cause the new part wear out even faster.
I cured one source of knock in my car this week & you know what it was???
Those cruddy little gas shocks that hold the boot open (stupid 10 tonne VS wing)
Yeah they were so worn on the ends (pivot points), they were causing rattling & knocking noises in the rear

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- Oldtimer
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Thats your drop links and busher needs to be changed. All up $225 in parts for front only.EURO wrote:what about if you get knocking noises every time you go down a bumpy road! which is half the roads in melbourne! pot holes etc... knock knock knock knock - i hate it!
Front Drop Links (Camskill) $108
Front Sway Bar Bushes (Whiteline) $14
Front Arm Lower Bushes - Front (Whiteline) $45
Front Arm Lower Bushes - Rear (Whiteline) $58
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- Oldtimer
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Thats your drop links and busher needs to be changed. All up $225 in parts for front only.
Front Drop Links (Camskill) $108
Front Sway Bar Bushes (Whiteline) $14
Front Arm Lower Bushes - Front (Whiteline) $45
Front Arm Lower Bushes - Rear (Whiteline) $58[/quote]
who did u use to do this work in melbourne?
lee had a quick look at my fto and said shocks etc were fine... but maybe i need suspension specialists...
i dont mind paying as long as it rids of those nasty noises!
Front Drop Links (Camskill) $108
Front Sway Bar Bushes (Whiteline) $14
Front Arm Lower Bushes - Front (Whiteline) $45
Front Arm Lower Bushes - Rear (Whiteline) $58[/quote]
who did u use to do this work in melbourne?
lee had a quick look at my fto and said shocks etc were fine... but maybe i need suspension specialists...
i dont mind paying as long as it rids of those nasty noises!
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- Oldtimer
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Haven’t done it yet, but I will be the one doing the work very soonEURO wrote: who did u use to do this work in melbourne?
Get your car into Pedders for a $14 suspension check. This will give you a very detailed analysis for your suspension system. Don’t use them to do the work though, as they cost fortune and they are very eager to change all possible parts.EURO wrote:lee had a quick look at my fto and said shocks etc were fine... but maybe i need suspension specialists...
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