After replacing the Radiator cap, I though the coolant issue is gone for good, to my discontent another coolant issue comes to the surface, in this case to on the drive way.
As soon as you start the engine, the coolant will drip from the engine area on the driver side. Is dripping like 2 drop every 3 sec. as soon as the engine stop so does the dripping.
I will jack the car up tomorrow and have a closer look.
Easy way to tell - do you antifreeze/rust inhibitor in your coolant (and if you don't, why not?)? If so, the water will be green. If it's clear, it's aircon condensation.
Water pumps are supposed to be replaced with the cambelts on the V6s
Pretty sure is coolant as is green and the coolant level is dropping
Easy way to tell - do you antifreeze/rust inhibitor in your coolant (and if you don't, why not?)?.
don't know how to answer this question, I thought coolant has those in it
Water pumps are supposed to be replaced with the cambelts on the V6s
is way over 100,000 kms.. Opps did not know that, anyone know where to get it replace (part number) and how much they roughly cost or have anyone done it before?
Its not a difficult thing to do, but is rather time consuming and hence means a fair labour bill from a mechanic. The preparation process is similar to that when changing cambelts, which is why they are usually done at the same time. I couldn't say how much it would cost for you though as I'm not in Aus.
As for the coolant question, we are talking about the liquid in your radiator. This can be just plain water, but it is highly recommended you run some sort of rust inhibitor in it as well to protect the system. Usually this comes combined with antifreeze (although you can get it separately) and an easy way to tell if you have it is that your radiator water will be a bright green colour...
As for the coolant question, we are talking about the liquid in your radiator. This can be just plain water, but it is highly recommended you run some sort of rust inhibitor in it as well to protect the system. Usually this comes combined with antifreeze (although you can get it separately) and an easy way to tell if you have it is that your radiator water will be a bright green colour...
ahh is bright green [kinda looks thicker then the coolant]
Its not a difficult thing to do, but is rather time consuming and hence means a fair labour bill from a mechanic. The preparation process is similar to that when changing cambelts, which is why they are usually done at the same time.
thanks afterburner, I should do more reading before got it serviced.. now all I need is get the part and a mechanic who can do it, anyone here got recommendations, I'm in NSW, the model is a 95 GPX.
Hey Tanya, you mentioned that service cost you a bomb (but it was worth it!) - just out of curisosity, what did they charge you for the pump? Im heading down to my mechanic for a major (just hit 90k) thinking I might get it done as well.
And Kni8ht, I just bought aftermarket tappets from Kempys & they were damn good, so Im assuming they've done they're homework on aftermarket bits. Service is good & delivery only took 4 days. Cause its NZ you dont have to worry about customs & that kind of stuff - AUS trade agreements let it straight in
Can you find out what water pump it is?
What it came off?
the mechanic said the water pump is from Mitsubishi, but is from another model <don't know what one> but fits except it has a 16mm diameter instead of 3mm diameter bead sealant. The price was $98 + GST no part number in the invoice.
The problem was due to too much coolant in the car, it caused the sealant in the centre of the pump to worn out and leaking out of the jiggle valve.. no thanks to the place who serviced my car who I think they put too much coolant in.
so take afterburner's recommendation use antifreeze/rust inhibitor in your coolant, but do not over fill..
To end this exciting story, the whole experience cost my $460 ($330 for labour (including fiting the rocket cover gasket, water pump and adjust the Tappers) and $130 for Water pump & replacement coolant.. )