DIY: Central locking fix

mrfto · Post by **mrfto** » Mon Dec 08, 2003 11:14 am

Hi all,

My central locking in the fto has stopped working. anyone knows what the problem could be?

Thanks for your help, Mario

ruchi · Post by **ruchi** » Mon Dec 08, 2003 11:29 am

This is quite a common problem with FTOs and comes down to the fact that an otherwise well built car has very weak actuators for the central locking.

I had mine replaced with some after-market ones and has worked fine ever since.

The other thing to check is the alarm / central locking kit you have in your car. Mine was set to provide a voltage for 8 seconds when opening / closing the doors, this was way too long and was causing the actuators to overheat. I got the actuators replaced by a car alarm installer and when they put the new ones in, they also adjusted the timing on the car alarm so it only provided a voltage for 2 seconds (which is still more than enough time for the actuators to work).

demonjay · Post by **demonjay** » Mon Dec 08, 2003 9:14 pm

If the motors are kaput,then try this very basic fix.
http://www.mitsubishi-fto.org/workshop/ ... index.html
The actuators can be bought from an auto parts store like autobarn.It's surprising how easy it is,and it works a treat.

fuhrer · Post by **fuhrer** » Tue Dec 09, 2003 7:30 pm

hey guys ive got the same problem but my central locking only lockes 2 half way... like it frezes up... is that the same problem u guys have???? if not do u think its still the acutors?? not a wiring problem???

ruchi · Post by **ruchi** » Wed Dec 10, 2003 10:47 am

The problem I had was that it would sometimes work and other times not. Sometimes it would only go half way like yours.

You could hear the relay switching and the actuators trying, but it only fully worked sometime.

Basically they were overheating and burning out. The new ones are heavier duty and work beautifully.

If you are unsure, take it to someone who installs them, like a car radio or alarm place, that way they can make sure that is the issue.

EURO · Post by **EURO** » Thu Apr 14, 2005 5:59 pm

any recommendations of where to get this done? Or is it as simple as going to JB hi FI and booking it in...

Car audio? alarm places? auto electrician?
any of the above?

FTO338 · Post by **FTO338** » Thu Apr 14, 2005 6:14 pm

Anywhere that sell/install central locking, but make sure you don't get those cheap one, or you will have problem again.

bexie · Post by **bexie** » Fri Apr 15, 2005 4:13 pm

yeah i was warned by the bloke who installed my alarm that ftos have a tendancy of the central locking mech going.

mine now only play up every now and then... but it will be something ill have to get fixed sometime soon i bet.

EURO · Post by **EURO** » Fri Apr 15, 2005 4:36 pm

I went to JB today

they had the motors ranging from $49 to $130 or something, but two of the cheaper ones were on sale.

Installation was $44 per door so im just going to get that done whilst they re wire my amps. My locks are sooo bad at the moment, half the time I cant even lock them with the key! GRR

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Sat Apr 16, 2005 2:32 am

well my central locking on my passenger door is gone and i opened up the interior panel and it doesnt even have an actuator on that side???

Post by **Supplanter** » Sat Apr 16, 2005 1:16 pm

The actuators are inbuilt into the latch at the back of the door... very hard to get to. I bought a central locking motor for under $15 from jaycar and put it in myself. The bracket needed to be modified (i.e. cut in half) but it was easy to install. The hardest thing to do is adjusting it after installation. If you are doing it yourself I would recomend putting the motor as far back as possible.

http://www.mitsubishi-fto.org/workshop/ ... index.html

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Sat Apr 16, 2005 3:17 pm

anyone have the product id code for the motor?

thanks

EURO · Post by **EURO** » Tue Apr 19, 2005 10:13 pm

so... I took my car to the alarm professor today.. A young guy said, yeh i worked on one of these last week - it will be the actuator.

He fitted a new actuator in front of me, but the problem still occured. He thinks I actually have a lock mechanism problem...

the symptoms
(1) the car locks / unlocks inconsistently. One go can be fine, the next it doesnt work.
(2) to lock the car by key can be difficult, its as if something is caught. Eventually it normally locks, but im concerned the key will break
(3) even pushing the latch across is restrictive.

Anyone know what this is? and i guess most importantly who will be the best person to take it to? Should I start at my mechanic etc or a lock specialist? etc?

efteoh · Post by **efteoh** » Wed Apr 20, 2005 3:44 pm

i did a post on how to fix this a while back, its manily a matter of either bypassing the surge/current limiter or replacing it in the central locking system

EURO · Post by **EURO** » Wed Apr 20, 2005 4:10 pm

ok thanks - i did read this. So this is nothing to do with the actuators? or will they need replacing at the same time ?

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:50 pm

Hi All,

I bought a central locking kit from JayCars and followed the link to DIY. Here is the kit I bought, $29, one master and one slave actuator with computer and all the cables as well.

I only needed to change the actuator in passenger side. Here is a photo of what you get, once you open the door.

Slave actuator has only two cables. Blue and green.

So, put your hand into the door panel, reach the locking mechanism and pull the plug down the end. You need to strip the socket of the cable which is an easy job. You will end up with 2 cables (Blue-Red and Blue-Black) with metal ends.

You might also ignore the above step totally - leave the socket attached to the door lock mechanism, - and use the original cable attachments.

However, if you do this, you will need to drill holes and all that sh*t which will take more time.

So, connect the new actuator and door cables together. Green â€“ Blue/Red, Blue â€“ Blue/Black

No need to cut or solder the cables this way.

Now, you need to connect the rods to the actuator and door. There are already 2 holes on the door panel, which was used to secure the old cable to the door. So, use those holes instead of drilling new ones. You can attach the cables to the new rods that holds the actuator. Also use our old friend cable tie to secure the cable connection to the door panel.

Here is how you attach 2 pull metals together. No need to bend or cut anything.

Here is the final view

Works perfectly. Doesnâ€™t affect the power windows. Actuator secured very well, donâ€™t move at all.

Hope this helps to someone.

FTO338 · Post by **FTO338** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 3:38 pm

Great stuff Max, i think this should be copy & have it put in the DIY section.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:56 pm

do you need a primary and slave though? I got two actuators both with two wires???

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Tue Apr 26, 2005 11:39 pm

also after doing my ECU reset my central locking hasnt been working. Tested to see if any voltage hit the actuators nothing. took panel where the interior fuses are at and found the alaram module. There was a yellow wire going from the ECU module and was fused. I took fuse out and found it to be ok. Connected the fuse back up from me bascially completing the link again fired the actuators??? Disconnected fused and fused again actuators fired again. Im totally lost to whats going on??? Anyone know? I have a code alarm if that helps.

thanks

mxysxy · Post by **mxysxy** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:09 am

Passinger side use slave actuator(with 2 cables), Driver side use master actuator(4 or 5 cables).

Maybe there is something wrong with the fuse internally. It might be blown, however, because you shaken it maybe reconnected the loose wire.