Awesome looking wheels, I was so close to getting the same ones but the Kings were so cheap I couldn't resist. I have so much work to do I need to watch the hole in my wallet doesn't burn too bring or the Mrs (my handbrake) will kill me.
We should meet up in Newy or something so I can have a closer look at your car. I need some more ideas
Nath wrote:Awesome looking wheels, I was so close to getting the same ones but the Kings were so cheap I couldn't resist. I have so much work to do I need to watch the hole in my wallet doesn't burn too bring or the Mrs (my handbrake) will kill me.
We should meet up in Newy or something so I can have a closer look at your car. I need some more ideas
Wish I could. My whole weekend is too busy already, and the next one. For me this is the worst time of year to plan anything on a weekend. I need a new job
So... been a while since I've updated, and as you've probably noticed a lot has changed.
Got a fair few photos dating back to 2014 to get through. So lets get started.
In 2014 I started planning my turbo build. I had a spare engine with blown head gasket sitting in the garage that I purchased from dstocks so I decided to pull that apart and decompress it using 1mm decompression shims from RPW.
First thing was stripping it down and cleaning it.
I soaked the heads in diesel and then soda blasted them.
Next up was lapping the valves
Heads machined
New valve stem seals
Valves and springs back in
Reassembling rocker arms and cam carrier
Hylomar on block side decompression shim
Torquing down the head bolts
Next up was modifying the cam position sensor plate to fit on to the aftermarket cam gears as the cam gears are made for a NON-MIVEC engine which has the plate on the front exhaust cam, whereas the MIVEC has it on the front intake cam. I also had to rotate the cam gear and use a different alignment mark, but it all lined up fine.
The stock screws fouled on the cam caps so I ground down the heads of some bolts.
Turbo oil return
While the gearbox was out I ran a bearing and seal kit through it
Machined flywheel
Exedy HD clutch
Mid way through that engine swap I went on a trip overseas. Where I did most of the planning for the turbo setup. I even ordered my parts from overseas and had them delivered/picked up by FTOwnage.
First off I will start with a list of the parts I used for the turbo build
Kinugawa TD05H-16G
Haltech PS1000
WRX STI 565cc pink injectors
Turbosmart FPR
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Flex fuel sensor
Zeitronix ZT-3 Wideband O2 Sensor
6x Denso coils
Same side intercooler
6A13TT Oil filter adapter
Plus a bunch of other stuff you will see in pics. lol
I started with clocking the turbo as the stock orientation pointed in the wrong direction. To do this I had to remove a locating pin from the turbine housing.
I then mounted the turbo in the optimum position and started fabricating piping.
Wrapped in DEI Titanium exhaust wrap
I then mounted the intercooler and routed the intercooler piping
I had to ground off a mounting tab off of the turbo so I could fit the beanie on it.
With the turbo and piping all done I started to work on the supporting mods.
I made up a patch loom to go between the stock ECU and the Haltech.
For the wideband and AFR gauge I decided to use the Zeitronix hacker display in the cluster. Unfortunately the 7 segment displays and board were a little too big to fit. So I sourced some smaller ones and extended the connections to make it fit.
I replaced the stock clock and volt gauges with VDO volt and boost gauges.
For the fuel supply I flipped the fuel rail around so the outlets are on the drivers side. I also replaced the factory fuel loop with some larger fittings/hose to improve flow. I used an adapter on the stock fuel filter feed hard line and brought the lines up to the drivers side where the fuel filter and FPR are now located.
Made up a COP kit using 6 Denso coils. Plug and play to the factory loom
I was having a few issues with the oil getting a bit hot while cruising at highway speeds, so I intended on fitting an oil cooler. Problem was that I could not fit a thermostatic sandwich plate onto the engine as the extractors were in the way. I purchased an oil filter adapter from a 6A13TT which brings the filter further down.
The holes are already drilled and tapped on the 6A12 so all you have to do is remove the old stud, chuck a new gasket on and bolt it up.
After I had done this the problem was solved and I do not need the cooler. I assume moving the filter down away from the header and into some airflow cools it down enough.
Oil feed was originally taken from oil pressure switch but now that I have the 6A13TT adapter, it has a oil feed on it so I will reroute it from there.
I also had to relocate the clutch line. I used braided teflon -3AN hose and fittings.
Ground out the manifold for the Magna throttle body and added some extra vac ports on the back.
I replaced the engine mounts with Ralliart hardness inserts, except for the rear as it is no longer available in the Ralliart hardness. Bad idea. As I was running the engine in without any boost (about 2000kms) the rear mount tore and in turn cracked my crossmember. (This also happened to FTOwnage and Shiggz)
Luckily Bennoz had a spare poly rear mount which I grabbed off him and have had no issues since.
To go with the added power I also increased my stopping power.
GTO brakes and hubs, chucked a rebuild kit through the calipers and painted them red. The discs and pads were still good so I just used them. Will upgrade when the time comes.
I managed to score myself a set of EVO X MR wheels for $500. Unfortunately they had a bit of gutter rash on them.
I took the wheels in to my local tyre shop and had them strip the old tyres off and ordered some new tyres.
Brought the wheels home, jacked up the car, put the wheel on the front and ran it in 2nd gear. Used a file to remove the rash and then used wet and dry sandpaper from 80grit up to 1200grit. They turned out pretty well.
Comparison between my olD BBS RG-R's with federal 595 RS-R 235/40/17
New tyres are Federal 595 RS-RR 245/35/18
Also put on some 15mm hubcentric slip on spacers with extended studs. The spacers are a snug fit into the wheel (had to tap em in) and will require a fair bit of swearing to remove them.
Big thanks to Jim (getonit) for making my angry eyes bonnet and painting the front bar, sideskirts and spoiler too.
I ordered a 250ml test batch of paint from a local shop to see how well the colour will match. The match was perfect so I went and ordered 5L as Jim had to spray my bonnet and a few other bits and I plan on eventually spraying the whole car.
And guess what.... the paint doesn't match..... and I do not like the darker red so I will have to order another batch and they better get it right.
After doing a bit of research I discovered that the CJ Lancer/Evo X wheel fits the FTO. I initially looked for a EVO X wheel as IMO they look a lot better but couldn't find one in decent condition for a good price. So I grabbed a CJ Lancer wheel and clockspring and with a few slight modifications fitted it to the FTO. Currently I have the stereo controls working through my tablet and I am in the process of sorting out the cruise control but it should work nicely.
When I find a EVO X wheel I will probably move this wheel into the Legnum.
Video of stereo controls working
And last of all tuning results.....
192.5kw at 14psi on 98
206.4kw at 14psi on E85
216.4kw at 16psi on E85
That's it for now. Probably missed a few things but I'm sure ill remember and add them in 2 years.
Bennoz wrote:
Technikhaus wrote:What is in said Bens big penis by the way?