Daniel's Rookie DIY FTO Build!

[Daniel2019]

Piston Rings - http://www.camskill.co.uk/m3b0s9p9256/_ ... _0_V6_DE3A

Gasket set - http://www.camskill.co.uk/m3b0s9p5811/_ ... V6_Engines

Conrod - http://www.camskill.co.uk/m3b0s9p68998/ ... E3A_2_0_V6

+ more but cbf.

It seems as though camskill is going to be my main parts source as they seem to have most of the things needed.. Does anyone recommend any other places?

EDIT: f**k it, basically one of everything http://www.camskill.co.uk/m3b0s9p0/Mits ... GR_GPvR_GX

[Daniel2019]

I entered the thread and sniffed some Gen Y.

Thought for a second you were buying the ute.

The Gen Y set.

Where am I?



I dare say, if you really want to put this engine in to the new shell to have a decent runner, then you really need to read up on what exactly goes in to building an engine.
From reading over the dribble above I can't determine where you are; enough to give a decent answer.

But more or less, you would want all new parts to ensure the thing will stay alive.
Have the heads checked and decked, new gaskets all round, replace sensors, mech items, etc.

Honestly things like mods make things complicated with these motors and ECUs.
Your best honest bet is to get the motor running factory form and into a shell so it's running.

And THEN go about modding.

atleast then you are confident in oem construction enough to understand where to go from there.

my 2c, ex. gst and carbon tax.

Good point. I kinda figured that if Im going to replace something, I may as well replace it in the first place, rather than going from broken part, to stock part, to aftermarket part, but thats a fair point to make. Once this school bullshit goes away then I think Ill be able to put a little more effort into this rather than just semi-pipe dreaming. Im trying, though!

[Vectose]

http://www.amayama.com Most engine parts should be cheaper than Camskill and shipping isn't bad either. You will probably need to use ASA to get the part numbers (Or just use the ones from Camskill)

[Astron_Boy]

You would be surprised how much of that you can get local.

I do know of a few threads floating about giving detail on where to buy parts.

Surely the pistons are shared between the galant, therefore rings are easily attainable locally also... etc.

Issue with Amayama is postage, but given it's mostly small parts, may not be as bad.

[Daniel2019]

http://www.amayama.com Most engine parts should be cheaper than Camskill and shipping isn't bad either. You will probably need to use ASA to get the part numbers (Or just use the ones from Camskill)

Will look into it a bit over the weekend. For now its bedtime!

Saw your name and figured there was gonna be some ing going on, I must admit

Cheers rob!

[Astron_Boy]

For now its bedtime!

Saw your name and figured there was gonna be some ing going on, I must admit

Cheers rob!

Night Snookems.

I'm surprised you didn't expect worse from me, let alone veccy boy.

Only reason I say stay factory form.
I've seen far too many rookies go belly up, waste a tonne of cash to never get the modded motor properly running.

Down the road, they buy stock and wonder WTF they were ever thinking.

The other side of the coin is if you simply don't care and have the cash.

Somehow I don't think you're the latter.

[Taz]

I guess one of the exceptions to what astron said would be the pistons being replaced with forgies, only because there would be no difference in how the engine handles or performs with either in, it is only the strength of them that sets them apart (as far as i know) So would it not be better to spend that little extra now to get them rather than a lot more down the road?

[Daniel2019]

For now its bedtime!

Saw your name and figured there was gonna be some ing going on, I must admit

Cheers rob!

Night Snookems.

I'm surprised you didn't expect worse from me, let alone veccy boy.

Only reason I say stay factory form.
I've seen far too many rookies go belly up, waste a tonne of cash to never get the modded motor properly running.

Down the road, they buy stock and wonder WTF they were ever thinking.

The other side of the coin is if you simply don't care and have the cash.

Somehow I don't think you're the latter.

At $12 an hour in school, the short answer is NO! I have a fair bit of money, but thats being saved for the future, to go towards a house.

At the end of the day, trolling aside, youre correct. I think it may be the wise option for me to be patient for once.

[Daniel2019]

I guess one of the exceptions to what astron said would be the pistons being replaced with forgies, only because there would be no difference in how the engine handles or performs with either in, it is only the strength of them that sets them apart (as far as i know) So would it not be better to spend that little extra now to get them rather than a lot more down the road?

Im going to get the head reco'd professionally and I'll talk to them and see if they have any recommendations in terms of pistons too.

Which brings me to my next point - is there anywhere in NSW that does this kind of work that anyone recommends? I know pulse racing does it, and a few of the fellas here swear by them. Not too sure though, havent had any first hand experience with them at all.

[Astron_Boy]

Not like these cars have an issue with pistons.
Unless you're planning forced induction, I would not even bother.

And even then, these engines are proven to take boost quite well with a factory bottom end.
Gen Ying looking up, but I dont think even Val touched the bottom end, and he by far has the most modified N/A motor on the forum (not most powerful, but he spent the cash)

I'd say save your dollars.
Just ensure you buy quality parts, and not Chinese fortune cookie slips.

[Daniel2019]

Not really planning on boosting it any time in the near future. Ive gotta learn when Im doing first

Right. So it's established - stock everything!

[payaya]

http://www.kerzan.co.nz/listing.php?cat ... ive__Parts

$120 for a VRS kit.

[payaya]

Or buy it from from repco ACL part number FB5170MT. No idea how much it costs though.

[Daniel2019]

http://www.kerzan.co.nz/listing.php?cat ... ive__Parts

$120 for a VRS kit.

Cheers payaya. Added to the list

[Daniel2019]

Small update, had my last exam this morning so I did some work on the engine today with the help of lawso *insert generic "lawso is unsafe near engines" joke here*

Got as far as the rear rocker cover coming off. Also removed thermostat and some other parts (lawso's work)

Taking it apart is the easy bit.. putting it back together on the other hand..

Feels good to be able to make some progress (even if it is only a little bit)

[Daniel2019]

Got down to the headers today. Cant get the last bolt undone on either side because it sits at an odd angle and the pipes get in the way of my socket. Rusted on too tight to use much else that will fit. WD40 and have another crack tomorrow me thinks.

[aza013]

Looks like you can open up the air intake manifold pipes a little .

[Daniel2019]

Looks like you can open up the air intake manifold pipes a little .

There are many things to be done, pending time and $

Will update with some piccies tomorrow hopefully.

[fraz91]

Got down to the headers today. Cant get the last bolt undone on either side because it sits at an odd angle and the pipes get in the way of my socket. Rusted on too tight to use much else that will fit. WD40 and have another crack tomorrow me thinks.

A pair of ring-spanners does wonders here. Use the one you need on the bolt head, and then another one with the ring end over the open-ender and it acts as a lever. Alternatively, a correctly sized bar will slide over and give you the leverage you need.

In the words of Archimedes: "Give me a lever long enough and I can lift the world"

[Daniel2019]

Got down to the headers today. Cant get the last bolt undone on either side because it sits at an odd angle and the pipes get in the way of my socket. Rusted on too tight to use much else that will fit. WD40 and have another crack tomorrow me thinks.

A pair of ring-spanners does wonders here. Use the one you need on the bolt head, and then another one with the ring end over the open-ender and it acts as a lever. Alternatively, a correctly sized bar will slide over and give you the leverage you need.

In the words of Archimedes: "Give me a lever long enough and I can lift the world"

Its not a question of leverage, its an issue of actually fitting a tool over the bolt because the pipes are in the way. Although I think a ring spanner might just work. thatmightjustbecrazyenoughtopotato.jpg

Next question is "do I have a 14mm ring spanner"

Cheers fraz