Anyone changed the cambelt without the tensioner tool?

Rob Furniss · Post by **Rob Furniss** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:38 pm

Just wondering if it's a must to have this, part MD998767, looks like it goes on the tensioner pulley to lock it in place while you tension it up but not entirely sure.
Mitsi have just quoted me over $200 for it, camskill have it for £40, can I get it from anywhere else and is it really required? (I want an easy cambelt change though)
Also are there any other special tools that I will need?
Here's a link to a pic http://camskill.co.uk/m3b0s9p12850/_CAM ... 6_DE3A_ALL

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:44 pm

Nah. I just use the circlip pliers with the 90 degree bend in them.

Rob Furniss · Post by **Rob Furniss** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:45 pm

Ok thanks mate, is it just to hold the pulley still while you torque it up?

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:22 pm

Yeah, exactly

Rob Furniss · Post by **Rob Furniss** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:28 pm

Ok thank you Sir.

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 5:43 pm

Bennoz wrote:Nah. I just use the circlip pliers with the 90 degree bend in them.

Same. Lock it up where you think it's about right. Hand spin it a couple of times, check the tension and adjust if needed.

Would be easier with the tool but not worth it for the cost.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:09 pm

You need to get the tensioner to the point where the pin in the hydraulic tensioner can be freely moved around.

I made one with a socket and two screw driver extensions and took ten seconds to make. I will post pictures later. It's so red neck but worked so well.

It's hard to get it bang on with pliers but it sort of work, just make sure the piston of the hydraulic tensioner is about 3-4mm when pin is released.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:20 pm

Also the guide on the user manual is pretty sh*t imo.

Heres the tensioner tool I made up

3/8 socket with two holes smashed in two screw driver extension bits.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Sahin · Post by **Sahin** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:27 pm

Nice dildo

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:29 pm

Dunno what dildos you have!

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:31 pm

The key steps are 13 & 14, don't try to 'tension' it correctly, just tighten it in position where the wire is free to remove and insert freely, then crank it a couple of times and check again. I use an allen key instead of wire. Doesn't take long to get it right.

(13)Make sure that the wire, which has been inserted when
installing the auto tensioner, can be removed easily.
Belt tension should be acceptable if the wire can be easily
removed. Remove the wrench. The belt tension can also
be verified by checking the protrusion amount of the auto
tensioner rod which should conform to the following.
Standard value: 3.8 - 4.5 mm
(14)lf the wire cannot be removed easily or the rod protrusion
is not up to specification, repeat steps (9) through (12)
to obtain the correct tension.

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 6:44 pm

Yep cool, the key to have the pin move around freely.

Also the crank pulley needs to be half a tooth anti clockwise while putting on the belt.

Rob Furniss · Post by **Rob Furniss** » Wed Feb 08, 2012 7:11 pm

Thanks guys

Storm · Post by **Storm** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 9:07 pm

Shane001 wrote:The key steps are 13 & 14, don't try to 'tension' it correctly, just tighten it in position where the wire is free to remove and insert freely, then crank it a couple of times and check again. I use an allen key instead of wire. Doesn't take long to get it right.

(13)Make sure that the wire, which has been inserted when
installing the auto tensioner, can be removed easily.
Belt tension should be acceptable if the wire can be easily
removed. Remove the wrench. The belt tension can also
be verified by checking the protrusion amount of the auto
tensioner rod which should conform to the following.
Standard value: 3.8 - 4.5 mm
(14)lf the wire cannot be removed easily or the rod protrusion
is not up to specification, repeat steps (9) through (12)
to obtain the correct tension.

That sounds pretty complex! I just kind of threw mine on and it's been fine ever since.

Must be that luck that comes with practice I suppose

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 4:50 am

Until the stress from improper tension makes something go bang!!

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:48 am

And if it goes bang it'll go bang in a big way

Post by **Bennoz** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 12:07 pm

Meh, I've always done 'em by hand & never suffered any catastrophic failure... and I run a shed load more power than you guys.

Shane001 · Post by **Shane001** » Fri Feb 17, 2012 1:20 pm

Yeah but I bet you don't just whack it on and hope its right

payaya · Post by **payaya** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:59 pm

Bennoz wrote:Meh, I've always done 'em by hand & never suffered any catastrophic failure... and I run a shed load more power than you guys.

But I bet ya yanked on the belt before releasing the tensioner and made sure the belt was at similar tension when installing the new belt.

Post by **Bennoz** » Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:45 am

Very much a feel thing. Done one, ya done 'em all.

FTO AUSTRALIA