Greeting + A Few Issues

[boages]

Hi Everyone,

I'm new to this site and FTO's having purchased a 95 model GPX manual last week. Have since been trawling this site making big plans for the new carand getting to know more about it from the wealth of information posted on here. I dropped the car off this morning to a mechanic, just wanting a quick service and to see where the car is at and to also investigate an idle/start-up issue. He called back with some supprisingly bad and confusing news. Here is a run down on the issues he has come up with.

I originally dropped it off for an oil leak and that when I started it, no matter if it was up to temp or dead cold it would rev up to about 2500rpm then gradually settle to 1000rpm. Any touch of the throttle and it would hang up in the revs slightly. It would also rev high after starting when moving along then putting the clutch back in. Also, coming up to a stop at lights it would rev up slightly once the clutch was put in then settle to 1000rpm, then hunt up to 1200rpm and down to 700/800rpm. I was hoping it was the stepper motor. Any way this is what he came back at me with:

-The motor is gummed up with bad sludgey oil residue. I asked about a treatment for that and he said that removing it might make the big end bearings noisy and potentially sieze or fail. He reckons this sludge has damaged the cylinder, pistons, valves. Whole motor really.

-L/H inner CV boot is cracked

-Oil leaks from: power steering high pressure line fitting; cam box seals; front of rear bank cam area with oil leaking into timing belt area;

-Cltch slave cylinder (want to do master aswell)

-suspect warm up idle by-pass problem (though problem is there once up to temp). Want to back probe ecu to report.

He basically said it needs a full rebuild. For just the oil leaks and clutch to be done he has given me a rough quote of at least a couple of thousand dollars.

The mechanics grim view of the motor is puzzling me though as the car drives well, is smooth and strong in power. The motor sounds good, no strange noises or tappety. The car is immaculate, with the previous owner having reciepts for all services and replacement parts fitted (brake disc, suspension etc.)

Just wondering if these oil leaks are as big a job as he has made out, whether the motor is cactus and if so what would be a better option to fix. ie rebuild current motor or replace motor with similar? Or if anyone knows of an FTO experienced mechanic in Newcastle.

Sorry for the long essay. Any ideas or help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

[spency]

that when I started it, no matter if it was up to temp or dead cold it would rev up to about 2500rpm then gradually settle to 1000rpm. Any touch of the throttle and it would hang up in the revs slightly. It would also rev high after starting when moving along then putting the clutch back in. Also, coming up to a stop at lights it would rev up slightly once the clutch was put in then settle to 1000rpm, then hunt up to 1200rpm and down to 700/800rpm.

I wouldn't be worried about this too much as mine just went through the mechanics not even a month ago. It seemed to be normal and it wasn't brought up from the previous owner.

Giving the car a service can do nothing but good for the car, if its done right. If there are no whining or tapping noises coming from the engine bay, I think you should be fine.

[boages]

I wouldn't be worried about this too much as mine just went through the mechanics not even a month ago. It seemed to be normal and it wasn't brought up from the previous owner.

Giving the car a service can do nothing but good for the car, if its done right. If there are no whining or tapping noises coming from the engine bay, I think you should be fine.

Thanks Spency,
I just don't like it reving that high straight away being cold and dry of oil. It doesn't have any excess noises and the only whining is the change of engine note once the mivec starts around 5000rpm.

I should also mention that the sludge or gummed up problem was diagnosed from "looking down it's thoat". Though he hadn't taken anything off the motor, so just assume he meant looking into where the oil goes. He also mentioned that there was a lot of blow-by and the car is breathing really heavy (from the crank-case).

[pete_gpx]

I'd be getting a second opinion before throwing huge wads of cash at this mechanic. The idling problem most definitely sounds like your stepper motor, however.

If your cam seals are leaking oil, that could be a costly repair as it's a fairly big job, as far as I'm aware. A couple of grand just for the seal replacement and clutch cylinders sounds a bit over the top, though.

[dstocks]

Welcome to the club. It would probably cost you quite a bit more for a rebuild than to just do a straight engine swap. If its running fine, I would just tend to get it serviced and drive it till you actually start having issues and then decide what to do. Personally, id then just do a straight swap for another engine. I would get the other issues fixed though (CV boot etc). How bad is the engine leak?

[I8A4RE]

Hey mate welcome...

First off, I maybe be sceptical but I am not having a lot of faith in this mechanic from the info that you have provide...

If you want to stay with this guy then all good luck to you but I would be doing some further research before pulling my engine out for a oil leak and idle hunting.

Did he check compression ratio's, how does he know that the, "sludge has damaged the cylinder, pistons, valves. Whole motor really".

Did the guy change the oil or do any of the service?? If not get the oil and filter changed, and have a look at the old oil yourself.

The cv boot should cost about 70-100, the clutch cylinders probably around the same.

The hunting I would say is stepper motor which I think the guys found a replacement unit for $100.

Oil leaks. DId he really call it cam box seals???? LOL. Rocker cover gasket isnt too bad either around $50-60.

Also if you find out that engine is rooted (I highly doubt it, with the info you have provided)then definitly engine swap over rebuild far cheaper.

[boages]

Thanks for the warm welcome and information guys.

They did drop the oil and change filter and I will do this myself regularly.

I am definitely getting the cv boot done and the clutch slave and master cylinders. Will also hunt for a new stepper motor. Can someone let me know the correct part number as the CAPS lists four different part numbers for the one part. Or should I just quote the number on the original?

The compression wasn't tested which is why I'm very sceptical of his diagnosis, especially that the car is not showing any symptoms of giving up at all. I think I'll just service it regularly, get the current issues sorted at a different place after buying the parts needed myself and see how it goes.

Thanks a lot for all your advice. Hope to eventually make it to a meet up some time in the future.

Will let you know if anything more comes of this.

[boages]

Oil leaks. DId he really call it cam box seals???? LOL. Rocker cover gasket isnt too bad either around $50-60.
.

Yep, that was on the reciept under work needed.

Those prices you've listed seem pretty reasonable. He must've had a heap of labour in mind to do the fitting.

[vipfto]

Hey mate welcome...

First off, I maybe be sceptical but I am not having a lot of faith in this mechanic from the info that you have provide...

If you want to stay with this guy then all good luck to you but I would be doing some further research before pulling my engine out for a oil leak and idle hunting.

Did he check compression ratio's, how does he know that the, "sludge has damaged the cylinder, pistons, valves. Whole motor really".

Did the guy change the oil or do any of the service?? If not get the oil and filter changed, and have a look at the old oil yourself.

The cv boot should cost about 70-100, the clutch cylinders probably around the same.

The hunting I would say is stepper motor which I think the guys found a replacement unit for $100.

Oil leaks. DId he really call it cam box seals???? LOL. Rocker cover gasket isnt too bad either around $50-60.

Also if you find out that engine is rooted (I highly doubt it, with the info you have provided)then definitly engine swap over rebuild far cheaper.

Totally agree

and WTTC

[boages]

and WTTC

Thanks mate.

Will just see how it goes for now. So back to my original plans for her!

Next up are these! XHP Deuce 20x8.5 Not sure if they'll fit but will give it a good go.

[zuihoujueding]

erm....ok.....

by the way, which mechanic did you go to?

[boages]

erm....ok.....

?? Bad taste or they won't fit?

Would rather not mention the mechanic. He's a small operation and only used him as he was nice enough to squeeze in my van for a blue slip for interstate rego transfer. Will not be using him again though.

[zuihoujueding]

will be interested to see how the wheels turns out in your fto.

i used to go to a mechanic at waratah. hes experienced with japanese imports and reliable.

[silverGPX]

Chromes on FTO = fail

[boages]

I'm not a fan of chrome either. I think the machined & black will suit the silver GPX well.

[silverGPX]

ha okay but i think 20inch and 8.5inch wide arent going to fit an fto, even with 19's your pushing it.

[pete_gpx]

I wouldn't be so sure... I think Alekezam from Brisbane has something like 21s on the rear of his FTO? Not sure what kind of fitment dramas he's had, though.

[silverGPX]

21" wtf! crazy.

[boages]

Hey guys. We couldn't fit 20's on there. Would be able to with coil-overs fairly easy, though not sure how wide and would have to be a fairly low, low profile tyre. As it was we got 19's on there. Similar in style to what I wanted and have turned out well I think.

[pete_gpx]

You know, they actually look good. Needs a little lowering, in my opinion, providing that it's possible due to the size of the wheels.

Alekezam on here is running 18" on the front and 20" rear, although he does have coilovers installed, giving him extra clearance.