How do you mount your sub?

silverGPX · Post by **silverGPX** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:19 am

Was wondering how everyone stops there sub box sliding around in your boot?

Post by **Bennoz** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:41 am

I use the adjustable strap from old school bag hooked onto the steel bar that runs along the back of the rear seat

Post by **I8A4RE** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:16 am

Remove sub from box and screw down into false floor. re install sub

pete_gpx · Post by **pete_gpx** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:40 am

It's almost as if you are friends with a guy who lives in the same town as you, that drives the same type of car and also happens to work as a car audio salesperson...

Come into WOW and I'll sell you some nifty little ROK straps for about $12.

silverGPX · Post by **silverGPX** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 2:10 am

haha yea i know its almost like that ay pete sorry. I think ill just screw it down though.. straps

. i tied my last sub in with thin rope and used these hinge things to tie it to the box haha so dodgy. Just want the boot to be perfect since i spent so much time on it though with the sound deadening and painting.

However i still need my keyless entry wired up..? if you could talk to your mate for me if he is totally confident. ill give him like $60-$70 upon completion.

nicholas · Post by **nicholas** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:24 pm

does velcro work guys?

what about for amps (p.s. I can't mount the amp to the back of the seats like most people do, because the sub is sitting between the back of the seats and the strut brace, and takes up all the room) or is there a better way?

FTEvolution · Post by **FTEvolution** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:51 am

nicholas wrote:does velcro work guys?

what about for amps (p.s. I can't mount the amp to the back of the seats like most people do, because the sub is sitting between the back of the seats and the strut brace, and takes up all the room) or is there a better way?

Industrial strength velcro would do the trick. As for the amp, I put some MDF over the drivers side tool holder in the corner of the boot and mounted my amp there (it is small though) and it keeps it nicely out of the way.

I also don't have the false floor any more and have wedged the box into the spare wheel well while rigging a small bracket into the hole where the bolt securing the spare would go. Function over form in my case. Haven't had a spare wheel for 3 years... cans of tyre weld FTW!

silverGPX · Post by **silverGPX** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 10:45 am

Would u mind posting a pic FTEvolution?

nicholas · Post by **nicholas** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 10:37 am

I'm starting my install tomorrow. My current plans are:

1. Go to Bunnings and get some nice thin mdf or similar. Use the current board in the boot (just the centre one) as a template and jigsaw the new mdf to be an exact copy (basically just so I can return to stock if wanted)
2. Buy some auto carpet and cover the new mdf copy.
3. Mount some sort of angle brackets or blocks of wood on 3 sides of the sub to hold it mostly in place. Use velcro under it just to make sure.
4. Mount amp on an angle to one side in the boot (just velcro). Boot hardly gets used anyway, so not too concerned about it getting in the way. Plan is eventually if I wanna put a second (mono) amp in later, I'll mount it on the exact angle on opposite side, for a nice symmetrical look.
5. Drill through the carpet and mdf and have all cable running under the MDF for a nice clean install look.

Looking forward to pulling the car apart and getting busy! Unfortunately stuck at work today

silverGPX · Post by **silverGPX** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:15 am

Sounds good, you shouild take pics as you go

Post by **vipfto** » Fri Apr 02, 2010 1:06 pm

just used some hinges (black) to act as brackets and small self tapping screws (black) to fix from box to wood under carpet effective and simple and can really notice it and cant move around

nicholas · Post by **nicholas** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:30 am

guys quick question - i noticed in the engine bay that there is an earth point at one of the three bolts that hold the coil overs in.

can I replicate this at the back of the car cos that'd make finding an earth point a sinch

Post by **vipfto** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 10:52 am

sure can any part of the actual car chassis makes a good earth point
if for amp I used rear seat bolts or can find any inside boot etc

nicholas · Post by **nicholas** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:52 pm

This is turning into a huge job, not helped by the fact the car is outside and it keeps on raining...

Everything stripped out of the car from the dash / front seats back, I've successfully run new wiring for splits through the stupid rubber conduits between the doors and car (took forever!) and put connectors on them.

Have run the amp wire but haven't yet figured out how the hell to get it through the firewall. I thought there would be a spare hole I could use, but doesn't look like it so I guess I'll have to drill it through.

have run the speaker wiring / rca cabling down the other side of the car. Currently just trying to work out how to mount the new 6" splits into the door hole. Need to modify the mounting plate that the old speakers sat in...

running out of time.... lol!

nicholas · Post by **nicholas** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:54 pm

Any another problem, I've discovered the doors leak..

Trying to work out how to fix that up so I don't go and put $380 worth of speaker into a pool of water

Post by **vipfto** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:23 pm

for doors leaking will need new rubbers

for amp + wire on passenger side of firewall you will see large plug where main wiring loom goes through and you be easily be able to fit through there with slight modification

nicholas · Post by **nicholas** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 1:46 pm

New rubbers as in between the window glass and the top of the door metal right?

Do you know where can I source from? Thanks dude.

Post by **vipfto** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 2:33 pm

maybe dstocks mate yeah that would be the ones also can leak in via door/window rubber on top of door

nicholas · Post by **nicholas** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 7:56 pm

Thanks dude. Status update for today then:
1. 4 gauge amp wire run through from bonnet to boot
2. new speaker wire run for 6x9s, splits, sub (6x9s off HU, splits and sub off amp)
3. crossovers installed (passenger side behind glove box, drivers side under steering wheel) and wired
4. 6x9s replaced

to do tomorrow:
1. cut out new floor from MDF with jigsaw (using old floor as template)
2. re-carpet new floor
3. mount amp and sub on new floor. drill holes so that all wiring can come from underneath (spare wheel well)
4. cut parcel shelf cover up (the new 6x9 cone is higher than the last pair, doesn't fit under the cover as is, so i'll have to cut some of the plastic out of the cover
5. wire fuse in and connect to battery
6. mount tweeters
7. splice new 6x9 speaker wire into car's harness

not sure i'll get it all done. but nice to have made a fair bit of progress this weekend anyway

bduffman · Post by **bduffman** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:21 pm

in my old car i didnt use a spare so i mounted my grounds to the spare mount cut the bolt and used nuts to hold the wires down ( remember to sand/grind the paint away down to bare metal for a good ground ) as for mounting with my old sub i used thread and nuts threw the false floor into my amp rack ( witch also used the threads for the shelfs ) worked well but if its a small box few L brackets would work fine have the bracket face inward so only part you see if the bit that screws to the box like left bracket this what L and right bracket _I that way