Camber issue's

[El_Ade]

Hey Fellow FTO'ers
So i recently got a new cross member, now i had this done at mitsushitty (BAD IDEA PEOPLE, BAD BAD BAD IDEA!!)

So since iv gotten it back from that sh*t box of a place, iv had multiple stuff go wrong with it, and one of them im currently trying to figure out is one of my front wheels has positive camber so the top of the wheel is further out than the bottom of the wheel (sorry for my awful explanation for those who don't know what positive camber is)

Whats the go with this, where should i start trying to fix this problem?

Im abit short on cash at the moment so i'd prefer avoiding unnecessary costs trying to fix this.

Cheers in advance..

[vipfto]

Do you have adjustable coilovers or camber bolts in your strut?

Can be a few things if none of the above, and i pressume you mean crossmember that has g/box mounts on? as this should not affect geometry of camber

Basically to fix if you dont have it put some camber bolts in struts and get wheel alignment

[El_Ade]

Do you have adjustable coilovers or camber bolts in your strut?

Nah i don't

Basically to fix if you dont have it put some camber bolts in struts and get wheel alignment

Alrighty... Where is the best place to look for camber bolts?

[I8A4RE]

Just go to a tyre shop that does wheel alignments. I cant recoomend bob jane enouugh.



The guys at southport setup my car so good when I first got my coilovers.

[Bennoz]

Tough call. I dont like camber bolts, they tend to turn on their own...

I would start with anti-lift control arm bushes on the rear of the front control arms.

Failing that, I'd head for adjustable strut tops such a Tien, Cusco or Kmac.

[El_Ade]

Plan A)

Just go to a tyre shop that does wheel alignments. I cant recoomend bob jane enouugh.


The guys at southport setup my car so good when I first got my coilovers.

Plan B)

Tough call. I dont like camber bolts, they tend to turn on their own...

I would start with anti-lift control arm bushes on the rear of the front control arms.

Failing that, I'd head for adjustable strut tops such a Tien, Cusco or Kmac.

Sound like a good idea?

[Astron_Boy]

Isnt this kind of masking the problem?
Buying an aftermarket item to fix an issue that was not there previously?
If the car had 0 offset prior to work being done to it, then something about the work, or what was done is causing it and should be corrected...?

[El_Ade]

Well, im hoping that they just stuffed up the wheel alignment, i mean i wouldn't be suprised if they did really, the amount of stuff that they left is just a joke.. i could have done a better job.. blind folded upside down...

But Astron, you are right man. Could be over looking a bigger problem.

[J]

its your wheel alignment... when i bought my car the front drivers wheel had positive camber got a proper alignment and it looks to be slightly negative along with the passenger.

like mentioned dont just throw an aftermarket piece on to fix the problem, get it sorted the right way

[Bennoz]

Problem is, there's no facility to adjust the front camber on a standard setup.... Perhaps something is bent

[I8A4RE]

Yeah something is definitly wrong..... If it was fine before the work and now isnt I would be taking it back to mitsi.

[El_Ade]

Sounds like this could be pretty serious problem $$

[Shane001]

If it went into Mitsubishi fine, and came out as u say, then they should fix it for you, at nil cost. As Ben said, camber is not adjustable on the front of the FTO, so they have done something wrong, installed a bent part, bent something, or just generally fucked up somewhere lol! Take it back and tell them to fix it. If they refuse, contact Dept Fair Trading & ACA lol

[Storm]

Dumb question maybe, but why did you need to replace the cross member in the first place? Maybe the old crossmember was masking a problem which the new one has since brought to the fore.

For the camber to be out on standard suspension then either your cross member is sitting in the wrong place or is not straight, your bottom arm is bent or your chassis is twisted.

You really need to get a proper diagnosis before you start treating symptoms.

Bill

[El_Ade]

Dumb question maybe, but why did you need to replace the cross member in the first place? Maybe the old crossmember was masking a problem which the new one has since brought to the fore.

For the camber to be out on standard suspension then either your cross member is sitting in the wrong place or is not straight, your bottom arm is bent or your chassis is twisted.

You really need to get a proper diagnosis before you start treating symptoms.

Bill

I Broke my drive shaft doing things...i shouldn't have been. and when the car was put on the lift.. they found that the cross member was an entire inch out of where is was suppose to be, upon me hearing of this, i wasn't gunna let it leave the shop without a new one.


UPDATE: I jacked my car up last night and had a good long serious look under the front half of my car, i found that there were quite a few wields on the lower control arm.. i am beginning to think that...

Weilds = previous bend that was "fixed"
Problem = That this previous bend was fixed incorrectly by someone.

Possible or...?

[I8A4RE]

Dumb question maybe, but why did you need to replace the cross member in the first place? Maybe the old crossmember was masking a problem which the new one has since brought to the fore.

For the camber to be out on standard suspension then either your cross member is sitting in the wrong place or is not straight, your bottom arm is bent or your chassis is twisted.

You really need to get a proper diagnosis before you start treating symptoms.

Bill

Thats actually a really good point

[Bennoz]

Dumb question maybe, but why did you need to replace the cross member in the first place? Maybe the old crossmember was masking a problem which the new one has since brought to the fore.

For the camber to be out on standard suspension then either your cross member is sitting in the wrong place or is not straight, your bottom arm is bent or your chassis is twisted.

You really need to get a proper diagnosis before you start treating symptoms.

Bill

I Broke my drive shaft doing things...i shouldn't have been. and when the car was put on the lift.. they found that the cross member was an entire inch out of where is was suppose to be, upon me hearing of this, i wasn't gunna let it leave the shop without a new one.


UPDATE: I jacked my car up last night and had a good long serious look under the front half of my car, i found that there were quite a few wields on the lower control arm.. i am beginning to think that...

Weilds = previous bend that was "fixed"
Problem = That this previous bend was fixed incorrectly by someone.

Possible or...?

Aaaaaaaaaaahhhh, so now the truth comes out.

So effectively, you've either plowed into a gutter or bottomed out something chronic. Therefore the list of possible suspect has just jumped exponentially.

If you have managed to bend the cross member by hitting something that hard, then you will have bent the subframe, which inturn could have twisted the chassis.

I wouldn't be going to a suspension shop, I'd be going to a panel beater to get the car jigged straight.

[El_Ade]

No, its not like that.. i didn't hit any gutter or anything, i dropped clutch and gunned it, which in turn caused my drive shaft to break... When it was taken to the shop they were looking over it and found the cross member problem, you see... finding the cross member was bent was sheer luck on the part of the mechanics...

[Bennoz]

lol, now Im even more confused!

I have a twin turbo, nitroused 300kw engine & even I've never snapped a standard driveshaft!

Did you inspect the break on the shaft? Was there any corrosion on the shear? That could indicate the previous owner bottoming it out.

[El_Ade]

Unfortunately... No, i didn't inspect it before it was replaced, my guessing is there probably was something wrong with it, to cause it to break.

My Car = Nothing but confusion & problems, you have no idea