DIY: Cold air induction (the cheap way) ;)
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- Foe
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DIY: Cold air induction (the cheap way) ;)
I realise Im going to cop a sledging for the ULTRA dodgeness of this mod but it worked so I'll put it up anyway. Motivated due to my flat-mate beating me in his FTO I tried to find a way to give mine the edge. Cold air induction seemed to be the cheapest and I set forth to find a alternative.
I spent $50 at bunnings and bought my self some pvc piping of variose types and used the instructions off Funky Fto to get the front bumper off. Then used a combination of wire screws and silicon to fashion together the final product. Took about 2 hours and the dyno's speak for themselves.
Looks dodge under the hood (if you look hard) but from the outside you wouldnt even know its there.
Thats under the hood in front of the grill it will look better once I paint it all black.
Thats in the airbox with my new fat ass pipe feeding straight into it.
Before the mod
After the mod.
So Im pretty happy with it. Only issue is that the new pipe is a bit wider then the old one so it pushes the tire cover a little towards the wheel making a bit of a sound at extreme right turns. Only thing left to do is get a K&N filter.
I spent $50 at bunnings and bought my self some pvc piping of variose types and used the instructions off Funky Fto to get the front bumper off. Then used a combination of wire screws and silicon to fashion together the final product. Took about 2 hours and the dyno's speak for themselves.
Looks dodge under the hood (if you look hard) but from the outside you wouldnt even know its there.
Thats under the hood in front of the grill it will look better once I paint it all black.
Thats in the airbox with my new fat ass pipe feeding straight into it.
Before the mod
After the mod.
So Im pretty happy with it. Only issue is that the new pipe is a bit wider then the old one so it pushes the tire cover a little towards the wheel making a bit of a sound at extreme right turns. Only thing left to do is get a K&N filter.
Last edited by Foe on Sat Apr 17, 2004 10:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
- smorison
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despite the amount of time and effort i've put into developing stuff i'm not going to flame you or anything like that.
one word of warning is check the hoses regularly for the first few months then on a couple of monthly basis.
why?
your not using automotive piping and because of this it could degrade very quickly.
anyway nice effort
one word of warning is check the hoses regularly for the first few months then on a couple of monthly basis.
why?
your not using automotive piping and because of this it could degrade very quickly.
anyway nice effort
- FTO338
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Great stuff, now i know what 2 do with my spare vacuum cleaner
You can always spray those piping with colour cans anyway.
You can always spray those piping with colour cans anyway.
DISCLAIMER: The above text is the personal opinion of the author and does not represent the indisputable truth. The author is not responsible for any deaths, injuries or mental illness caused by the above statments.
- Boris
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Good Idea
I don't know whether this would give me as much power as you got, cos i aint got a box...
The rectangular piece that you used, can i just confirm that you made it so that it is on an angle (deeper on the passengers side, and shallower on the drivers side)...
Or is it parrallel to the front bar?
I hope u know what i mean...
I don't know whether this would give me as much power as you got, cos i aint got a box...
The rectangular piece that you used, can i just confirm that you made it so that it is on an angle (deeper on the passengers side, and shallower on the drivers side)...
Or is it parrallel to the front bar?
I hope u know what i mean...
Name: Boris
Location: Canberra
Rides: Mitsubishi Evo 8 MR, Volvo XC60 & 3 push bikes!
Location: Canberra
Rides: Mitsubishi Evo 8 MR, Volvo XC60 & 3 push bikes!
- Foe
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Hey GPXXX the home dyno is a software package that once you feed it a wav file from your crack angle (to the ecu) sensor it gives you a very accurate reading. Just sync the software with a real dyno that youve done and away you go.
Boris - Yeah it does fade back into the pipe, would have liked to give it more of a angle but theres not a whole lot of room there. That flat pipe fits the intake perfectly.
Boris - Yeah it does fade back into the pipe, would have liked to give it more of a angle but theres not a whole lot of room there. That flat pipe fits the intake perfectly.
- GPXXX
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interesting! where do you get the software from? i'm not sure how accurate it can be given other variables (ambient air temp/humidity etc) but yeah it'd be great if you could post another DIY section on how to set up your own home dyno hehe...Foe wrote:Hey GPXXX the home dyno is a software package that once you feed it a wav file from your crack angle (to the ecu) sensor it gives you a very accurate reading. Just sync the software with a real dyno that youve done and away you go.
- Supplanter
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- Foe
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yeah this pretty much covers it
http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart04.html
But I used a laptop rather then that apparatus that he used. a lot easier but theres a few issues with the format of the wav file for the software to pick it up properly. If anyone has this down to a science I'd love to know. At the moment we rec via gold wave, even out the peaks, save as a 8 bit pcm wav then open in sound rec and save it as a 22 bit wav.
Its a paain but it works.
http://www.ftowa.com/html/workshop/workshopart04.html
But I used a laptop rather then that apparatus that he used. a lot easier but theres a few issues with the format of the wav file for the software to pick it up properly. If anyone has this down to a science I'd love to know. At the moment we rec via gold wave, even out the peaks, save as a 8 bit pcm wav then open in sound rec and save it as a 22 bit wav.
Its a paain but it works.
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