The FTOA Oil Thread
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- khunjeng
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- jedwabna poszewka promocja
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- Grue
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+1khunjeng wrote:Z411 are sh*t.mr-charisma wrote:about 70mm total diameter
Thread diameter where it screws on is about 18mm-20mm
Part Number: Z411
...not off the top of my head though, got a spare one kicking around..
Poor construction.
Get the Cooper equivalent. Part number can be cross referenced in any Auto shop.
- mr-charisma
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I always get Cooper, the part number for them is 1041, but most Auto shops will store them on the shelf listed as Z411Bennoz wrote:+1khunjeng wrote:Z411 are sh*t.mr-charisma wrote:about 70mm total diameter
Thread diameter where it screws on is about 18mm-20mm
Part Number: Z411
...not off the top of my head though, got a spare one kicking around..
Poor construction.
Get the Cooper equivalent. Part number can be cross referenced in any Auto shop.
- zuihoujueding
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Oops...i just did an oil change myself. went to sca, they only sell, "polurator" something like that, valvoline and ryco? only ryco is in stock and i just took it.
Castrol Magnetec 10w-40 is on discount $30 at autobarn so i took it.
went on to the oil change. the old filter was cooper. forgot to compare it with ryco but anyway. heres my findings:
the usual tapping noise was noticably soften, not sure its becos of the oil or filter. thats about it.
Next is coolant flush. I got Tectaloy Rapid Cool Coolant and Coolant flush also as they are on offer $26 at autobarn.
Castrol Magnetec 10w-40 is on discount $30 at autobarn so i took it.
went on to the oil change. the old filter was cooper. forgot to compare it with ryco but anyway. heres my findings:
the usual tapping noise was noticably soften, not sure its becos of the oil or filter. thats about it.
Next is coolant flush. I got Tectaloy Rapid Cool Coolant and Coolant flush also as they are on offer $26 at autobarn.
- Benedict_XIII
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What do you guys think of these magnetic oil filters compared to say the k&n ones
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0278754926 (magnetic)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0262016075 (k&N)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0278754926 (magnetic)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0262016075 (k&N)
- zuihoujueding
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Alright this is an essay, so apologies for that. Please have a read and provide some input. I would really really appreciate it.
I’m planning on replacing my gearbox and engine oil in the next service, and I’m after a bit of info so that I can buy all the stuff beforehand.
From what I’ve read I’m going for Royal Purple. I know a lot of people don’t reckon it’s worth the extra money, but I would prefer to spend money for quality even if it means I’ll probably need to miss lunch for the next year.
Gearbox Oil;
I own a manual GPvR with a LSD, and I’m not sure how much this changes things over the standard box. How much oil will I need? Is it the same roughly 2.3L as the normal box, or does the LSD box need more?
I’m looking at getting Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90, does this sound right? Does anyone else use this? Since I’ve picked the car up I’m getting some occasional grinding when cold, so I am hoping this will make a big improvement.
Engine Oil;
Now this is where all the debate creeps in which is pissing me off….LOL….why can’t there be a definitive viscosity to use damnit.
Once again, I’m planning to go Royal Purple.
First – Am I right in thinking I will need about 4.4L?
Khunjeng seems to be a strong supporter of 5W-30. I agree with this thinking in theory for performance and startup wear reasons, and especially since we're moving into winter I am leaning towards this direction. However as I have NFI what oil is in the car at the moment, I assume a 5W-30 could bring to life any tappet issues that might be hiding behind the current oil. Furthermore, I do go for some long distance trips and enjoy giving the car a bit of a squirt quite often so I’m not sure if 30 is enough? Or am I just worrying too much?
I guess a 10W-40 would just be a safer option, even if it probably isn’t the best. What are other peoples thoughts?
Big thanks for any advice or input.
I’m planning on replacing my gearbox and engine oil in the next service, and I’m after a bit of info so that I can buy all the stuff beforehand.
From what I’ve read I’m going for Royal Purple. I know a lot of people don’t reckon it’s worth the extra money, but I would prefer to spend money for quality even if it means I’ll probably need to miss lunch for the next year.
Gearbox Oil;
I own a manual GPvR with a LSD, and I’m not sure how much this changes things over the standard box. How much oil will I need? Is it the same roughly 2.3L as the normal box, or does the LSD box need more?
I’m looking at getting Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90, does this sound right? Does anyone else use this? Since I’ve picked the car up I’m getting some occasional grinding when cold, so I am hoping this will make a big improvement.
Engine Oil;
Now this is where all the debate creeps in which is pissing me off….LOL….why can’t there be a definitive viscosity to use damnit.
Once again, I’m planning to go Royal Purple.
First – Am I right in thinking I will need about 4.4L?
Khunjeng seems to be a strong supporter of 5W-30. I agree with this thinking in theory for performance and startup wear reasons, and especially since we're moving into winter I am leaning towards this direction. However as I have NFI what oil is in the car at the moment, I assume a 5W-30 could bring to life any tappet issues that might be hiding behind the current oil. Furthermore, I do go for some long distance trips and enjoy giving the car a bit of a squirt quite often so I’m not sure if 30 is enough? Or am I just worrying too much?
I guess a 10W-40 would just be a safer option, even if it probably isn’t the best. What are other peoples thoughts?
Big thanks for any advice or input.
- zuihoujueding
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Hi mate, im currently using RP MaxGear 75W-90. Definitely smoother gear change, but stills experience abit of grinding from 1st to 2nd when cold every now and then. I used about 2.2L on my GPX.
Personally, i woud try other brand like Redline which is even more expensive than RP.
The need of viscosity change vary according to your local climate. Have a read on this thread and it should explains. Im curently using Shell Helix Ultra with 5W-40 with mitsu filter which has no problems. Will definitely still hear some tapping sound but thats the way its been build. Am i right?
Question: Good gear oil generally last for 40k? im referring to 50-50 city/highway driving.
Personally, i woud try other brand like Redline which is even more expensive than RP.
The need of viscosity change vary according to your local climate. Have a read on this thread and it should explains. Im curently using Shell Helix Ultra with 5W-40 with mitsu filter which has no problems. Will definitely still hear some tapping sound but thats the way its been build. Am i right?

Question: Good gear oil generally last for 40k? im referring to 50-50 city/highway driving.
- Tippin
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i just put in Penrite 10w40 and i must say its very good stuff.
Driving is a lot smoother, dont get bottom end rattles anymore and tappet noise has reduced significantly. I put in 4.3L
Ive also heard very good things about elf oils and my mechanic rates it over anything else (If they use it in the F1's it must be good right?)
Driving is a lot smoother, dont get bottom end rattles anymore and tappet noise has reduced significantly. I put in 4.3L
Ive also heard very good things about elf oils and my mechanic rates it over anything else (If they use it in the F1's it must be good right?)
- khunjeng
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film strength on my redline 30wt is more than any of the oils mentioned....i.e. same to more protection with less weight...so there is no issue there and I hammer my car lots - for a few years.
after all this however I notice these days as my tappets start to loose alignmenmt, when its cold and the oil is not at temp (and thick) the engine runs nice and quiet, at temp its a bit more noisy thse days on idle i.e. the 40wt would probably help stop the noise however the op. temp viscosity difference is not really that much when you compare a redline 30wt to a 40wt as an example - many other brands will be similar however how long they stay this way is the question - look for HTHS rating for example as a key indicator.
I can assure everyone that I run 5W30 and have done for a few years with no drama - you should see how clean the engine is now after a few yeras of redline!
Unless u track the car, 30wt is fine for melbourne whcih is generally cold anyway.
after all this however I notice these days as my tappets start to loose alignmenmt, when its cold and the oil is not at temp (and thick) the engine runs nice and quiet, at temp its a bit more noisy thse days on idle i.e. the 40wt would probably help stop the noise however the op. temp viscosity difference is not really that much when you compare a redline 30wt to a 40wt as an example - many other brands will be similar however how long they stay this way is the question - look for HTHS rating for example as a key indicator.
I can assure everyone that I run 5W30 and have done for a few years with no drama - you should see how clean the engine is now after a few yeras of redline!
Unless u track the car, 30wt is fine for melbourne whcih is generally cold anyway.
- Banserki
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