Bennoz wrote: Forced induction & variable valve timing dont mix...
That's only a myth. Take a look at some of the honda forums. Just goes to show what a quality built factory motor and years of tuning can achieve on stock internals. There's a a built b18c turbo VTEC YO!!!!! constantly putting out 290kws atw.
Also new evo's have mivec on both the exhaust and intake camshafts. So forced induction & variable valve time can mix, but just not suited to our motor's
Sadly our mivec motor's weren't built as tuff as the honda motor's, mivec isn't electronically controlled and finally there's been nowhere near the amount of research done into the tuning of a turbo 6a12 mivec.
yano28 wrote:Yeah you're exactly right with what you said. Oh well... Looks like I'll be hunting down a gr motor if this comes to fruition
time for me to sound like the total noob i am when it comes to cars.. but i remember seeing something on this forum about someone wanting a mivec controller.. so does that mean you could get one of those and reduce the mivecs influence and make things less crappy for turbos etc? save the hassle of finding a gr engine
Wont help, the car is still using the "Mitsubishi Innovative Valve timing Electronic Control system" ... the controller just changes the "mivec scream" at different RPM's
Mivec controllers govern the point at which the ECU changes over to the high cams from the low cams. As discovered by a great many people in years gone by, Mitsubish got it pretty much right where the change over point is set from the factory.
yano28 wrote:Yeah you're exactly right with what you said. Oh well... Looks like I'll be hunting down a gr motor if this comes to fruition
time for me to sound like the total noob i am when it comes to cars.. but i remember seeing something on this forum about someone wanting a mivec controller.. so does that mean you could get one of those and reduce the mivecs influence and make things less crappy for turbos etc? save the hassle of finding a gr engine
or am i totally off in how things work
mmmm may work as I can set the mivec point to come in at what ever RPM I like, so what is to say I set it to 9900RPM and the car red lines at 8k mivec dosnt kick in
I will have to look into that.
the exact reson why superchargers kits are so expensive.
hey bennoz why did you give up on usin the toyota blower was it just the physicl size? or something else?
my problem is, im stuck with using the toyota blower as its what we use in our other kits. I've been looking at making the drive shaft and it seems posible to do if you asshole the air box and mount the blower there somewhere.
yano28 wrote:]Yeah you're exactly right with what you said. Oh well... Looks like I'll be hunting down a gr motor if this comes to fruition
mmmm may work as I can set the mivec point to come in at what ever RPM I like, so what is to say I set it to 9900RPM and the car red lines at 8k mivec dosnt kick in
I will have to look into that.
Errmmm, would it not be a lot easier just to disconect the wire going to the MIVEC control valve and then it wouldn't kick in at all
there is no way you can run the toyota charger down the front of the engine without removing air con, radiator, radiator fans and even then you will struggle as you even have a height restriction of the slopping bonnet.
CHRISTIANITY: The belief that a cosmic Jewish Zombie who was his own father can make you live forever if you symbolically eat his flesh and telepathically tell him you accept him as your master, so he can remove an evil force from your soul that is present in humanity because a rib-woman was convinced by a talking snake to eat from a magical tree...
i am looking at mounting the blower on the trans mission side of the engine were the air box goes using a drive shaft across either the top of the motor or in front of the valve cover .
still trying to figure out were to mount and how to mount the blower...
Yeah, I gave up on it cause of its size not fitting down the front, but if you've got the facility to fabricate a driveshaft to so's it sits on the gearbox side, then you'd probably be ok. I reckon you'd not only have to asshole the airbox, but relocate the batery to the boot as well (which is not a hard job as you can imagine.)
Bennoz wrote:Dont wanna pop your bubble, but the sc14 blower wont fit in the engine bay - at least without the expense of loosing air con & relocating the raditator.
I've been through this fitting process, the best fit blowers are the Vortech units mounted at the gearbox end of the motor with a long extension drive to tack onto the PS / Air con belt.
Only issue is the $3-5k retail price of the blower itself.
Alternatively I was going to cut up the intake & shoe horn either an Eaton M45 or M62 in there. A swedish Autorotor would probably also fit up along the back of the intake (granted that you cut the intake up) - but again, a pricey unit.
