Battery Light Dramas

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Supplanter
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Battery Light Dramas

Post by Supplanter »

I have noticed recently that my battery light is coming on dimly when I drive. It is hard to see during the day but at night it is visible. The brightness increases as I accelerate and dims when I release the throttle.

The battery is a slimline SLA one about half the size of a standard one. Lately it has begun "whistling" as I accelerate too so I think it might be related. Could it be gas escaping out of the battery? Could the alternator be over-charging it?
Last edited by Supplanter on Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I8A4RE
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Post by I8A4RE »

yeah someone just stated in a previous thread that the battery light comes on when the alternator is overcharging. Have you checked your battery fluid? all the cells should be covered in water. Whats the volltage reading on youir in car gauge. Do you own a voltmeter its the best way to check whats happening with your charging system
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Post by Supplanter »

Checked it with a multimetre the other day, it was reading 12.55V.

It is a Sealed Lead Acid battery, how do I check the water?
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Post by I8A4RE »

you cant if its sealed.

What it was reading 12.5 when running? or thats when its switched off?

it should be round the 12.5 mark when off and round the 13.5-14 mark when running
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Post by DaveO »

Supplanter wrote:Checked it with a multimetre the other day, it was reading 12.55V.

It is a Sealed Lead Acid battery, how do I check the water?
Yeh check the obvious things first.
belt tension, it might be slipping as you rev up.
It should be around the 13V to 14V mark.
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Post by Supplanter »

12.5V from the battery, 13.8V when the car is running.
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Post by I8A4RE »

Checked ECU codes?
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Post by Supplanter »

I'll do that when I get home.
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Post by Bennoz »

$50 on dead / dying voltage regulator on alternator
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Post by yoshiba »

for sure its the alternator man...i had the same problem.
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Post by Supplanter »

How hard is it for a novice to remove the alternator?
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Post by I8A4RE »

Its easy and hard at the same time. the alternator itself has only 1 through bolt and the tensioner. Getting the thing out is the hard part, as it hits on, just about everything around it, exhaust, drive shaft etc etc. If your car is lowered it also makes things difficult as it narrows the amount of exits available.

I can get mine replaced about an hr/hr and half but i was talking to the guy that supplied me the alternator and he said his boys cant do it under 2.5hrs. Also some of the members on here were saying that they had to remove their exhaut manifold which would take longer i didnt need to, i dont know why??

So really its not hard but really bitchy job, it all depends on your skill level, but you cant really f&*k it up so i say give it go if your feeling up to it, you may save yourself a couple hundred :D
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Post by Bennoz »

C**t of a job. FACT. :lol:
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Post by Supplanter »

Bennoz wrote:C**t of a job. FACT. :lol:
Sounds like you have some experience :scratch:

When is your mext trip down to Melbourne, Ben?
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Post by Bennoz »

Ooooh, I'll have to charge travel beer allowance... thats 2 cases ontop of my normal 2 case fee :lol:
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Post by Richy »

I saw Mayan@Maytech took my alternator out in half hr...he jacks up the engine to get that extra room to pull the alternator out.... :P
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Post by Supplanter »

So my car almost cut out last night... and almost didn't start this morning :roll:

It's booked in at the auto electrician on Monday so we'll see how we go.

He actually had FTO listed in one of his books for $320 (4 pin) 8O

But I will just get mine reco'ed because I am a tightasrse :oops:
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Post by Richy »

8O new alternator for $320....?? if so...its dirt cheap.. 8O
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Post by Supplanter »

$420 for removing the alternator and reconditioning it. The guy had to remove the driveshaft to get it out :roll: bloody autos.

I'll see if I can get the manufacturer and part number of the alternator he had in his books.
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Post by Supplanter »

Don't worry about the part number for the OEM alternator gays and gals, it was a cheap Chinese knockoff :lol:
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