My car doesn't go past 6000 RPM! Need Help!

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Sun May 27, 2007 4:13 pm

Ever since I bought my car almost 2 years ago it has never been able to reach past 6000-6500RPM. (This is even after it has been fully warmed up i.e. driving it for over an hour.

ECU Error Codes;

62 - Air Intake Control Valve Position Sensor
64 - Alternator FR Terminal

My car runs fine, doesn't seem to have any idling problems & has plenty of power, but when I put my foot right to the floor it will cut out & make a nasty noise when I hit around the 6k RPM mark - After that the rev limiter kicks in & it won't let me accelerate anymore & I have to take my foot off the accelerator and then give it some more before it will go anywhere..

I have check the plugs that run into the "Air intake Control (Idling?) valve position sensor, taken them off & plugged them back in (it looks like it has been taken off before, because one of the plugs has been taken off before & they snapped one of the clips that hold it in, so they've just siliconed it in place - Would they have taken this thing off to fix the Stepper Motor at some stage?)

Here is a picture of the "Air Intake Control Valve Position Sensor" & Air Temperature Sensor" Unit, this connects to the Intake Valve Motor which opens/closes the Air Intake Valves. (According to what I've read, please don't flame me about this)

Here is a link to a DIY Guide on www.ftooc.org on how to fix the problem;
http://www.ftooc.org/phpbb/viewtopic.ph ... ion+sensor but I have tried it today & then went out for a long drive, (over an hour) and tried to see if it would go past 6500 RPM & it still wouldn't, so I am now leaving the battery disconnected for a few hours & then I will check the ECU codes to see if it has cleared them or not.

Because I am also having the "Alternator FR Terminal" error, from what I've read, this is due to a wrongly reconditioned alternator & could also be causing the problems with not being able to get into Mivec. The warranty on my reconditioned alternator has expired now so I might have to buy a new alternator. I will check the fuses & might have to get the wiring checked out before I get a new one, but does anyone have a reconditioned (working) alternator for sale? Or would i be better off getting a brand new one?

Also, does anyone have a working "Air Intake Control Valve Position Sensor" unit for sale? (See pic above)

FtoSam · Post by **FtoSam** » Sun May 27, 2007 4:27 pm

I will have a Reco'd Alternator for sale shortly. It was reco'd last April last year, and cost around $500. They replaced frikkin everything in it.. Hasnt given me an ounce of trouble since. $150 if u want it (could prob get it off in a week or so.

I no longer need it as the MIVEC engine is going bye bye.. and the GR comes with its own alternator.

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Sun May 27, 2007 4:41 pm

Awesome Sam

, I will definately get it off you

I have just tried to check the fuse for the alternator (The black 80A one in the fuse box under the bonnet - Next to the yellow one.) and I am not sure how to check if this type of fuse has blown or not, it seems like its intact though... does anyone know? is it just the case that if the 80 amp alternator fuse has blown I would definately know about it?

Also, late last year my battery completely died, it was replaced not long before I got the car, so not more than 1 & 1/2 years old .... I replaced it with a new one & it works fine, but could my battery have died because of extra load from a faulty alternator?

SchumieFan · Post by **SchumieFan** » Sun May 27, 2007 5:01 pm

if that black 'fuseable link' is blown the battery will not charge and after 10 mins of driving the electrics will die, so u would know if its blown, its relativly the same as u fuse, u should b able 2 look thru the clear window on it and see a wire running thru it.... a fuse wire!

youd b able to see if its blown

cb · Post by cb » Mon May 28, 2007 3:37 pm

yeah sounds heaps like my problem after replacing the alternator in my GPX I will have to do an ECU error check thing on it this weekend, Just a tad worried about how risky it is to do being a noob and all. I have the build up process but any help would be great cheers!

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Mon May 28, 2007 4:01 pm

Its fairly easy to do, I wouldn't be too worried about breaking anything, just make sure that the car is off before you hook up the wire from Pin1 & earth it to the metal of the chassis, then turn your car to "Accessories", or you can turn the engine on if you want to..

Then if you want to be sure about your codes you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a while & then take it for a drive & see what error codes show up when you get back.

Also, just disconnect the grounding wire when you're done or you will have the 'Engine' warning light flashing all the time

FtoSam · Post by **FtoSam** » Mon May 28, 2007 4:04 pm

My warning light is on 24/7 lol

jonowong · Post by **jonowong** » Mon May 28, 2007 4:07 pm

FtoSam wrote:My warning light is on 24/7 lol

why?

install some check valves to bleed off the boost... so the map sensor doesnt see boost

FtoSam · Post by **FtoSam** » Mon May 28, 2007 4:11 pm

Hahah... Maybe because the ECU is in the bin....

A Microtec LT-10s is running the show these days

jonowong · Post by **jonowong** » Mon May 28, 2007 4:17 pm

FtoSam wrote:Hahah... Maybe because the ECU is in the bin....

A Microtec LT-10s is running the show these days

pull out the bulb then

FtoSam · Post by **FtoSam** » Mon May 28, 2007 4:19 pm

Too lazy.... meh... and car is 100kms away for next 3 months

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Thu May 31, 2007 6:54 pm

Managed to get the "Air Intake Control Valve Position Sensor" (Idle Control Motor?) unit yesterday & fitted it to my car today..

Cleared the ECU codes & took it out for about an hour & although it still dies in the ass when it gets to 6000RPM, the error code '62' has now disappeared, so now I just need to get the alternator replaced & my car should hopefully be as good as new.. (Now I just hope that theres nothing wrong with the ECU)

cb · Post by cb » Sun Jul 01, 2007 3:55 pm

*BUMP*

Ok guys wierd news (good I hope)
Yesterday it was raining and I was in 1st gear stopped at an intersection going right as it was wet I "accidently" spun my wheels *insert smart comment bout new RTA add* and instead of the usual stop at 6000rpm thing it has been doing boosh MIVEC kicks in governs at usual point, So I hit 2nd sure enough 8thou rpm again. By this stage the road had basically ended so I had to back off, then I tried again and nup back to normal again no going past 6000rpm, I tried to have a look for the thing where i ground the wire to get the ECU error codes when i got home but I am completely stupid and couldn't find it.
Would this strange event maybe point to what the problem could be?

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 5:51 pm

mmm... this is gonna be a complete stab in the dark, but could some water have possibly gotten in somewhere and bridged some wiring temporarily? (thinking alternator)

What error codes do you usually have?

My car has seemed to have done that once before as well, wasn't paying attention to whether it was getting up to 8k RPM, but something just seemed to 'click' into place & there was the 'boosh' feeling you described... everything just felt so much smoother than usual & didn't notice it choking at 6k RPM, I didn't have much road to completely punch it though ...

I have a bit of experience now with this problem, so if you can get the error codes I can tell you what to check..

cb · Post by cb » Mon Jul 02, 2007 1:39 am

I will have to do that, I tred to check the codes but i really couldn't find anything that looked like the pin thingo in the diagram so i'll get my mechanic to check it, as soon as I do this i'll post it up here and hopefully get some help, i went for a drive in a highly modified 12a turbo rx7 tonight so it really made me miss MIVEC haha

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:10 am

***UPDATE***

Replacing Air Intake control Valve Position sensor &
replacing the Alternator fixed the problems

cb · Post by cb » Wed Feb 27, 2008 1:36 pm

mr-charisma wrote:***UPDATE***

Replacing Air Intake control Valve Position sensor &
replacing the Alternator fixed the problems

Sweet maybe I should do the same or get my alternator reco'd I get the same error code the FR terminal one

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 2:12 pm

cb wrote:
mr-charisma wrote:***UPDATE***

Replacing Air Intake control Valve Position sensor &
replacing the Alternator fixed the problems
Sweet maybe I should do the same or get my alternator reco'd I get the same error code the FR terminal one

yep, that'd be the alternator or solenoids..

It could just be the plugs on the alternator as well.. check that they aren't loose & haven't come unstuck .. also check that they still have the goo in the plugs that stops water from getting in..

cb · Post by cb » Wed Feb 27, 2008 3:31 pm

mr-charisma wrote:
cb wrote:
mr-charisma wrote:***UPDATE***

Replacing Air Intake control Valve Position sensor &
replacing the Alternator fixed the problems
Sweet maybe I should do the same or get my alternator reco'd I get the same error code the FR terminal one
yep, that'd be the alternator or solenoids..

It could just be the plugs on the alternator as well.. check that they aren't loose & haven't come unstuck .. also check that they still have the goo in the plugs that stops water from getting in..

Yeah I have no idea how to do any of this stuff lol well i do but i don't want to ruin anything took it to an auto elec and they said it was charging fine so i'll take it to a mechanic and whilst im getting a major service get them to check it all out.

mr-charisma · Post by **mr-charisma** » Wed Feb 27, 2008 3:36 pm

aye, the alternator will still work properly for everything else, so it will still hold a charge .. its just the electrical signal that it sends back to the ECU isn't working for whatever reason.. its most likely a plug or wire on or inside the alternator has broken ..

The auto electrician should be able to fix it better than what a mechanic would, you just have to be direct with them & tell them that you want the problem with the MIVEC fixed .. otherwise they might just do a standard reco on it & put it back in without fixing the real problem..

Good luck with it