DIY: Jonos Guide on changing automatic transmission fluid
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- khunjeng
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just an update for everyone to read.
A dextron III type oil is not recomended for the FTO Tip. An SP rated oil II/III is the go and pretty much only avaliable OEM. There are some multis sold but most ppl in the know would touch them.
SP is a Highly Friction Modified ATF....and spec'd for the FTO.
However I know a few ppl who ahve just used a DIII type and had little issue...its all about risk and the longer term I guess.
Just note that SP and Dextron are not the same. The closest to the SP rated ATF is the ATF+3, +4.
I have written a bit more detail in the Oil thread.
Feedback on the shifts etc would be good.
A dextron III type oil is not recomended for the FTO Tip. An SP rated oil II/III is the go and pretty much only avaliable OEM. There are some multis sold but most ppl in the know would touch them.
SP is a Highly Friction Modified ATF....and spec'd for the FTO.
However I know a few ppl who ahve just used a DIII type and had little issue...its all about risk and the longer term I guess.
Just note that SP and Dextron are not the same. The closest to the SP rated ATF is the ATF+3, +4.
I have written a bit more detail in the Oil thread.
Feedback on the shifts etc would be good.
- khunjeng
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Its highly friction modified..much more than Dextron and Mitsi spec it.jonowong wrote:havent really tried An SP rated oil II/III so i have nothing to compare it with
But it might not be necessary...as you and another have used a DIII. I know NAcho used a Redline and he reckons its topps.
If I remember I will buy a SpIII from Mitsi this week and change mine. I'm pretty sure when I last got my tip serviced the guy said he had to use OEM oil and it cost a bit...it all makes sense now.
Also pay attention to the Oil filters you use...they make a big difference and the Ryco seems to have caused the most amount of trouble from what I can see trhough my oil and other car forums. I think its just about quality control...some seem fine.
The OM Nissan Oil FIlters perform better than most others...The same seesm to go with the Mitsi ones. Coopers got a good rating and Mobile 1.
I might need to do a bit of a serahc and find some good ones and do a GB so everyone has a good stock of them...
- khunjeng
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- khunjeng
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OK I did mine tonight....here is what I did and found.
1. Buy all the bits as above
2. Take of the air intake...mine was a hassle cos it has a box etc for my pod.
3. As also suggested look at the two hoses that go to the bottom of the radiator, looking at the front of the car I chose the hose on the left hand side. With a 17mm spanner you can take of the nut - but be prepared for some oil to drain out. Angle it toward a oil tray...
4. Get a big drip tray...also it would be a good idea (although I didn't do it cos I didn't know) to get newspaper and pack it above and around the hose you just took off cos it will sprey all over the place as I found out..
5. Start the car and run for 30-40secs...oil spits out..
6. Let it drip for a while...done
7. I actually checked the 3 drain plugs also but not much oil came out from here after that as expected.
8. Chnage the filter...this is really easy as you have taken off the intake pipe..get your new one, oil up the seal and put it one and do it up tight by hand.
8. If you used a decent oil pan or tray you should be able to see how much oil was drained...mine was 4L or just under...I'II get to this later
8. Fill it up with the new oil...obviously if you took out 4l put back in 4 at least..unless it was overfilled last time.
Take it slow...I spilt oil all over the place initially - thank god for newspaper..
Now...FTO specs say the Tip box takes 7.8L....hmmm and I only got out 4L so there is 4L left in ther box??? wtf I thought? Then a rememebred Nacho telling me about some crazy theory of chnaging the tip oil, drive for 1000kms or so and drain it again...and maybe even again...I thought how *~dreamy~* was that idea..
Also payaya said in this thread...you can't drain all the oil...so this made some kind of sense...plus I remember this mechanic gy telling me he bought this oil draining machine for like 20k or something...I thought they was a bit crap at the time...but now I understand why.
So...
I will read up how long you need to run the oil in...but my guess is a few hundred kms would do the trick to circulate the new and old oil...then change again...and even again.
2 chnanges have been estimated to get 75% new oil...the third is to make sure u have done the job right...
1. Buy all the bits as above
2. Take of the air intake...mine was a hassle cos it has a box etc for my pod.
3. As also suggested look at the two hoses that go to the bottom of the radiator, looking at the front of the car I chose the hose on the left hand side. With a 17mm spanner you can take of the nut - but be prepared for some oil to drain out. Angle it toward a oil tray...
4. Get a big drip tray...also it would be a good idea (although I didn't do it cos I didn't know) to get newspaper and pack it above and around the hose you just took off cos it will sprey all over the place as I found out..
5. Start the car and run for 30-40secs...oil spits out..
6. Let it drip for a while...done
7. I actually checked the 3 drain plugs also but not much oil came out from here after that as expected.
8. Chnage the filter...this is really easy as you have taken off the intake pipe..get your new one, oil up the seal and put it one and do it up tight by hand.
8. If you used a decent oil pan or tray you should be able to see how much oil was drained...mine was 4L or just under...I'II get to this later
8. Fill it up with the new oil...obviously if you took out 4l put back in 4 at least..unless it was overfilled last time.

Now...FTO specs say the Tip box takes 7.8L....hmmm and I only got out 4L so there is 4L left in ther box??? wtf I thought? Then a rememebred Nacho telling me about some crazy theory of chnaging the tip oil, drive for 1000kms or so and drain it again...and maybe even again...I thought how *~dreamy~* was that idea..
Also payaya said in this thread...you can't drain all the oil...so this made some kind of sense...plus I remember this mechanic gy telling me he bought this oil draining machine for like 20k or something...I thought they was a bit crap at the time...but now I understand why.
So...
I will read up how long you need to run the oil in...but my guess is a few hundred kms would do the trick to circulate the new and old oil...then change again...and even again.
2 chnanges have been estimated to get 75% new oil...the third is to make sure u have done the job right...
Last edited by khunjeng on Mon Oct 23, 2006 11:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Nacho
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Did you also remember me telling you that when you change oil and drain it from the sump you only get about 4L-5L of oil and you only drain all 7.8L of the stuff if you're opening up your tranny box?khunjeng wrote:Now...FTO specs say the Tip box takes 7.8L....hmmm and I only got out 4L so there is 4L left in ther box??? wtf I thought?

You never get a second chance to make a first impression.
- khunjeng
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yeah man..I remembered cos I thought it was wierd at the time. But now it makes sense. So I just did it again after a few hundred kms when i got home again. Seems to be working fine.Nacho wrote:Did you also remember me telling you that when you change oil and drain it from the sump you only get about 4L-5L of oil and you only drain all 7.8L of the stuff if you're opening up your tranny box?khunjeng wrote:Now...FTO specs say the Tip box takes 7.8L....hmmm and I only got out 4L so there is 4L left in ther box??? wtf I thought?
I also noticed that previously the oil was over-filled. Its quite hard to tell cos the oil is so thin, this time I filled it slow...ran it and checked. I think I have got it on the Hot section midway now...
anyway seems to be much better. Hows yours going?
- khunjeng
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yeah I reckon that redline stuff u usedhas a lot of friction modifiers which makes it quite good...not just your standard DIII type oil.Nacho wrote:Yeah about the same as when I first put it in there. I don't think it'll get any better over time. It still definitely shifts faster, and less noticably.