Home-made Gear Gator
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- Grease Monkey
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Home-made Gear Gator
I’ve been spending some time focusing on my interior of late and have just hand sewn a new gear gator using some of the extra Leatherette I bought, because as some of you may remember I used to have what looked like MC Hammers pants around my stick…… for those of you that don’t here’s a picture
Mine is a Tip so the measurements are for that but I’m pretty sure it would be the same for a manual.
Below are the measurements and process involved if anyone else is interested in doing the same:
1. Prep: Measure and mark on the back of the intended material where you’re going to cut and later fold, and then cut out using a sharp pair of scissors. Don’t use a Stanley knife as this can crease the material as you’re cutting and cause a jagged cut.
2. Sewing: I did mine by hand but if you’ve got a bored mum or grandma I’m sure she could whip this together in a fraction of the time it took me….. The main thing to remember is that you are sewing the edges together from the back (or inside out) of the material. Start from the bottom of the panel and work your way along the edge a couple of millimetres in using small stitches. Don’t panic if when you reach the top the panels are off in length because that will be covered with a collar in the final process. Repeat until you have an inside out pyramid of material.
3. Bottom: Fold up the bottom to meet the fold line you marked out at the beginning and chuck in a couple of staples to hold it in place. I found 3 per panel worked well with one in the middle and one on each of the edges. Get a piece of elastic roughly 450mm in length and feed it around the bottom edge, bunching up the material as you go. Once you have the two ends together put in a couple of stiches in the ends so they stay together. Add more staples all around the bottom so that it is secure.
4. Top: Turn the fabric the right way (not inside out) and pick one of the panels and staple the middle of the collar to that panel. Manipulate the collar and repeat the process to the panel on the left and right of your first staple. The collar should come together in the middle of the last panel, on the this panel cut down the middle 30-40mm as this will help you get it over your gearstick without removing your gearknob. This is not required if you intend removing your knob. Sew the bottom edge of the collar around the outside of the boot joining together the collar edges if you havn’t slit the last panel, leaving open if you have. Once complete turn the boot inside out and fold the top part of the collar down and repeat the process of stitching it to the panels.
5. Finishing: Now its just a matter of tidying up the edges of the collar with a couple of stitches and fitting around your gearstick using the original rubber collar will hide the staples at the bottom and ensure it stays in place.
Mine is a Tip so the measurements are for that but I’m pretty sure it would be the same for a manual.
Below are the measurements and process involved if anyone else is interested in doing the same:
1. Prep: Measure and mark on the back of the intended material where you’re going to cut and later fold, and then cut out using a sharp pair of scissors. Don’t use a Stanley knife as this can crease the material as you’re cutting and cause a jagged cut.
2. Sewing: I did mine by hand but if you’ve got a bored mum or grandma I’m sure she could whip this together in a fraction of the time it took me….. The main thing to remember is that you are sewing the edges together from the back (or inside out) of the material. Start from the bottom of the panel and work your way along the edge a couple of millimetres in using small stitches. Don’t panic if when you reach the top the panels are off in length because that will be covered with a collar in the final process. Repeat until you have an inside out pyramid of material.
3. Bottom: Fold up the bottom to meet the fold line you marked out at the beginning and chuck in a couple of staples to hold it in place. I found 3 per panel worked well with one in the middle and one on each of the edges. Get a piece of elastic roughly 450mm in length and feed it around the bottom edge, bunching up the material as you go. Once you have the two ends together put in a couple of stiches in the ends so they stay together. Add more staples all around the bottom so that it is secure.
4. Top: Turn the fabric the right way (not inside out) and pick one of the panels and staple the middle of the collar to that panel. Manipulate the collar and repeat the process to the panel on the left and right of your first staple. The collar should come together in the middle of the last panel, on the this panel cut down the middle 30-40mm as this will help you get it over your gearstick without removing your gearknob. This is not required if you intend removing your knob. Sew the bottom edge of the collar around the outside of the boot joining together the collar edges if you havn’t slit the last panel, leaving open if you have. Once complete turn the boot inside out and fold the top part of the collar down and repeat the process of stitching it to the panels.
5. Finishing: Now its just a matter of tidying up the edges of the collar with a couple of stitches and fitting around your gearstick using the original rubber collar will hide the staples at the bottom and ensure it stays in place.
If you can't be good, be good at it!!
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- Grease Monkey
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First i lined up the broken pieces and held them in place with a piece of tape, with the tape stuck on the front of the surround.
Then a dot of superglue on the back where the break was and smeared it around the break and surrounding area.
Once the glue was dryed some plastic cement was squeezed and smeared ontop of the superglue and surrounding areas
Once that was dry i took the tape off of the front and repeated the process of using the pvc cement on the front of the surround, smoothing it out and ensuring plenty of overlap as i went.
After that dryed i sanded the cement down until it was flush with the surround, cleaned with a dry cloth and sprayed the whole thing with plastic primer.
When that was dry i used a couple of coats of matt black
Couple of coats of Matt was followed by some more plastic primer and then a few coats of gloss. This is what it looks like at the moment. I'm still working on the finish and should have it back in the car tomorrow.
This is the PVC cement i used:
Good luck with your fix [/img]
Then a dot of superglue on the back where the break was and smeared it around the break and surrounding area.
Once the glue was dryed some plastic cement was squeezed and smeared ontop of the superglue and surrounding areas
Once that was dry i took the tape off of the front and repeated the process of using the pvc cement on the front of the surround, smoothing it out and ensuring plenty of overlap as i went.
After that dryed i sanded the cement down until it was flush with the surround, cleaned with a dry cloth and sprayed the whole thing with plastic primer.
When that was dry i used a couple of coats of matt black
Couple of coats of Matt was followed by some more plastic primer and then a few coats of gloss. This is what it looks like at the moment. I'm still working on the finish and should have it back in the car tomorrow.
This is the PVC cement i used:
Good luck with your fix [/img]
If you can't be good, be good at it!!
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