FTO AUSTRALIA

I have a 89 121 1.3l carby and it goes well lol.

Maybe there is actually something seriously wrong with it if it can't make it hills.

Sahin can vouch for the powaaaa

Bennoz wrote:What year model is it? It looks like the SB1..

Its a 97

According to the rego papers, anyway.

@Matt, havent given it much of a drive. Ill give it a service and a proper go today. To me it just seemed like it was struggling.

The other thing is that it shakes when idling, but when opening the throttle slightly/accelerating its fine.. no tacho though, so I'm not sure what the go is. Could the idle be too low? Thats my guess.

Daniel2019 wrote:

Bennoz wrote:What year model is it? It looks like the SB1..

Its a 97

Check the chassis / VIN number would ya. If if it's an SB1, it is the 44kw motor - that's why it struggles They're surprisingly heavy little f**kers for their size too.

Daniel2019 wrote:The other thing is that it shakes when idling, but when opening the throttle slightly/accelerating its fine.. no tacho though, so I'm not sure what the go is. Could the idle be too low? Thats my guess.

Just do a general service, plugs, leads, oil, etc etc etc.

See what the plugs are like, could be as simple an issue.
If the coolant is water, and the oil is black, then wouldn't surprise me the plugs are fouled, the leads are original and the rotor is worn to fudge.

Simple services can bring back so much life to a tired engine.

Regular SB, Ben. 1997 SB according to the plate.

I will give it a proper service but Im going to take it to see if it will be passed for rego first. Dont wanna spend 100 bucks on a service then have it fail rego

Daniel2019 wrote:Regular SB, Ben. 1997 SB according to the plate.

I will give it a proper service but Im going to take it to see if it will be passed for rego first. Dont wanna spend 100 bucks on a service then have it fail rego

Check lights, check brake pads, make sure brake fluid is decent, hose down the engine bay if there's a leak, make sure no bald tyres, horn works. job done.

less than $100

Point.

Daniel2019 wrote:

Astron_Boy wrote:
Get lawso to do some swift mods to it.

Including the smashed in front end?

Im just saying, the little bit of extra power in the manual would have been nice. But I'm not complaining, it was free after all

f**k off, i didn't smash that car!!!!!!!!!

Oh yeahhh.. sorry lawso, I take that one back!

Turned it on today to see exactly how high it would get. 90 degrees was the temp at 1/4 of the guage and 100 degrees was 3/4. I let it get to about 100 before turning it off and it was still climbing, so I thought it was getting too high and shut it down just incase.

The good news is that theres no oil in the coolant. The oil looks actually half decent and is at a good level. The fans did not kick in and it took a very long time to warm up.

Just waiting for it to cool down and I will flush the coolant and replace it and see if that works.

The people I got it off are adamant that its a fan switch but we'll soon find out.

If there's only water in the radiator then at about 95degC it'll be turning to steam. Temp switches can't detect the temp of steam, hence fans not turning on.

Water won't turn to steam at 95 while under pressure... Yes, coolant will lower the boiling point further, but your car should still be able to run on water for the short term.
I would say it's your fan switch or thermostat or radiator or all of them.

@Bestie - will flush and replace coolant regardless as theres only water in the reservoir and what looks like a really watered down mix of water and coolant in the rest of the system. Previous owners have told me several times that they were 100% sure that its a fan switch (they arent very mechanically minded - know a little bit though) so if the coolant replacement doesn't work then I will be chasing a fan switch I guess

Give it a try.

When it doesn't work, capture your coolant into a container when you pull it apart again, then you can reuse the coolant you have just bought.

If the previous have been running water for a while your radiator could be blocked with rust and thermostat could be rusted out or rusted closed. The radiator switch temp sensor could also be covered in rust and may just need some emery paper to it.

Daniel2019 wrote:Just waiting for it to cool down and I will flush the coolant and replace it and see if that works.

Daniel2019 wrote:@Bestie - will flush and replace coolant regardless

How long does it take to cool down?

Vectose wrote:How long does it take to cool down?

Hahaha I was planning to do it this afternoon but I couldnt be bothered. I thought insurance was going to be sorted so I would have been able to drive it today but its getting sorted out tomorrow or Saturday so I'll just do it whenever I get the chance.

Daniel2019 wrote:Hahaha I was planning to do it this afternoon but

EFA

Vectose wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:Hahaha I was planning to do it this afternoon but

EFA

Ehhh kinda. I stopped at lawso's on the way back from getting the coolant so by the time I got back home to do it, I had to leave pretty much straight away anyway. Doesnt matter, it cant be driven yet anyway. Ill tackle it tomorrow or saturday.

Oh and I put the drivers side interior door panel on today, too. More fiddly than you'd expect.

Vectose wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:Hahaha I was planning to do it this afternoon but

EFA

Beat me.

Astron_Boy wrote:

Vectose wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:Hahaha I was planning to do it this afternoon but

EFA

Beat me.

+1