FTO AUSTRALIA

Hi All!

GR I got changed lifters.

So far tried Motul 4100 i think? Castrol Magnatec.

Motul seems to be the better option so far. Magnatec seemed better with older lifters.

What you guys use???

hi... I'm driving GR as well and I think it's about time to change lifter in my car, how much did you spend and where you get the job done??

Payaya changed them himself, as have a handful of our members. The front bank is relatively easy to do, the rear's however suck a whole bucket full of cock. Lifters will cost you about 350-450 from Kempys (off the top of my head, can't remember exactly) and it's free to do yourself, but, labour from a workshop would be about 240 minimum i'd say assuming they knew what they were doing, maybe 500 if they didn't.

I'm using Magnatec in mine. I think with regular changes (5-10000km) it should be fine.

I have one lifter that wont stop ticking in my front bank.

Put in an internet then a fax order over 2 weeks ago to Kempy's (for a new set of lifters) but haven't heard from them!

Has anyone got a direct email address for them or bought anyhting from them recently? They used to respond in a day!

Mike

hey payaya

I would not use magnetic...its fairly average stuff. Depending on how much money you want to spend I would go for either the Redline to Motul 300V series oils. Failing that use Mobil 1.

I say, go with Motul 300V. For that price, go for 10k oil change interval. Ester oil is the way to go for highly stress/temp turbo engine.

this 5000km OCIs are not valid for Ester Oils and only recomended for sh*t quality oils as they breakdown quickly. Good ester oils have been proven to go for 20k OCIs no dramas...

check this out
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ult ... 012378;p=0

About the oil, i asked the same question and got some very good replies, so I ended up choosing Redline, anyway check this link i think it'll explain pretty much everything thanks to the people who replied to my question

http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... pic&t=8338

i find that there is no link between a expsive/good oil and how well they are at quieting down your lifters. I've tried Mobil 1 and it just made the lifters loud as.

So i am very wary in using mobil 1 again. I might go back to motul. Yeah i have one loud lifter in the front bank as well!

Excuse my ignorance but what are lifters?

lifters are bascially annoying

do a search on it, a lot of people call them Tappets. There are situated in your head under one end of the rocker arm.

Tappets i know, annoying little buggers

i wouldn't be chosing oils just to "fix" my lifters. All u r doing is putting in a thicker oil to stop it touching.... I use a redline 10w30 and it doesn't make it super quite but mine are adjusted well...

oil is key element in car protection. u need to choose it based on it protection/lubrication properties.

as I said before POE base oils such as Motul 300V and Redline are the go for engine protection, mobil 1 is not bad and has a good adative package. u can't beat ester oils for HTHS ratings.

I should be doing an oil/filter replace right now. What would you recommend? I've been using magnetec lately as it's cheap, should I go the redline?

redline is very expensive. The Motul 300V series is bit cheaper and is also really good...magnetic is crap from both my experience and the oil analysis done by some other guys who really know oils. There are a few other choices..but if u happy to by the Motul..u can't go wrong good value for money. With redline it will take u about 3 changs to clean all your crud out in 10,000km OCIs. just take off your rocker cover and take a photo now...and do it later after 3 changes and 30k. After this u can go for longer change intervals of say 15k-20k with no problems..So you might say your paying 40% but changing 50%-70% less often with better protection than a "magnetic" after 5k of use..

The next questions is what grade...10W30 or 40? There is a lot of talk about this but you will see the cSt ratings at operating temp of 30 & 40 r similar...while their cSt ratings at cold start are worlds apart...in summary the 30 will give u the better cold start protection while at operating temp the 40 will give u a slightly better thickness - which by the way isn't great for normal street driving and u rev it out to 8k - but i conceed its probably not that bigger deal on older worn engines.

why is cold start viscosity important? 90% of engine wear occurs at cold start...

IMO...don't skimp on oil...its what will help you car last the distance - assuming u care