FTO AUSTRALIA

Hey all,

Where do i get a CV boot for a GR? Mines started to Melt! How much and is it hard to change?

thanks

Payaya,

If you can tell me your chassis code (HNHM etc) and what side it is, I can tell you the part number. Its actually a kit - replacement boot, grease and clamps.
Mitsubishi would be one place to get it from, its not expensive thing.

Alternatively you could try Turner Driveshafts & Steering:
7 West St, Brookvale - 9905 0574 Speak to Ian. They have done heaps of driveshaft stuff for me in the past - including CV boots. Also very competitively priced.

As far as doing the job goes - its a sh*t of a job. I know you're handy with tools & I dont doubt you could do it thou.

You have to pull the whole hub assembly off - hardest part is undoing to castle nut. It locks the whole shaft assembly into the hub & is generally done up to 'pop a vein in the forehead' tension...

Then its a matter of splitting the CV joint off the shaft... best done with some creative lump hammering. Then swap the boots - extremely dirty job as its a grease packed joint. Regrease (supplied with kit) and reassemble.

Hope that helps!

yeah i did some reading and i cant be bothered doing it myself

I was gonig to get someone to do it anyway!

My Chassis code is

6E91MPORTWHK45006

Its the Cv boot connected to the Auto Tranny.

Also im in melbourne is i dont think its a good idea for me to travel to NSw to get a boot. How much do these kits go for?

thanks

so has the CV boot started to leak?? mine has a bit of a "leak" and I have been quoted about $400 to fix it up...probably do this sooner or later..

$400.00???? Damn how much is the boot worth???? Cant be that much labour in it!!!

Yeah that is a 3cm crack in the boot and grease is spraying everywhere!

Ok, run these numbers by your local Mitsi parts place & see what they tell you - there were 3 matches:

MR232401 - Boot Kit FR Axle sha BJ
MR232223 - Joint Kit FR Axle sh TJ
MR232221 - Boot Kit FR Axle joi TJ

I think there are 2 kits - as both the drive shafts have 2 boots on each. 1 boot to cover the CV joint, the other boot to cover the joint where the driveshaft comes out of the gearbox. So 1 of the above kits maybe the whole lot - the other maybe just for the CV.

I'd be pissed off if I paid anymore than about $50 a kit. In essence its just a rubber boot... but as I said, you'll get all the clamps and grease as well. I would definitely call Tuner thou - they will be cheaper than Mitsi. Im sure he'll freight to VIC too.

I'd say that quote was high, but the time involved in doing these does add up.

Also note - if one of your boots is gone - there's a good chance the other will be on the way out. I always do both when doing them.

Note 2 - split boots can be real dodgy depending on how bad the grease is flying about. It can land on your disc rotor & cause all sorts of braking problems... not to mention the friggen smell!

agree..if its split u have to fix quickly...mine isn't, or not badly..just noticed some grease around the area...wiped it off but havn't checked if its back..Lee in melb gave me rough quote - maybe it was 300 not sure but around that mark and its basically for labour..if you do a good job it will last for ages...

payaya wrote:$400.00???? Damn how much is the boot worth???? Cant be that much labour in it!!!

Yeah that is a 3cm crack in the boot and grease is spraying everywhere!

its not that easy to fix...a lot of screwing around..might take 3-4 hours..+ kits..both at once..300-400 sounds ok to me..i don't care anyway as long as I know they person fixing it does a good job. Lee is the man!

you got me thinking about mine...wacked my car over the pit before and noticed sh*t all over the place..lol thanks for reminding me.

I'II call my normal mechanic cos its much easier if he can do it...see how much he quotes for the job...let you know tomorrow!

LOL has got you thinking hasn't it Triple posting & all hehe

Yeah be interested to know what he quotes you

Yeah well i got mine changed the other month and im afraid the person that did it, did a dodgy job!!!

because you guys are saying that you have to regrease the CV joint and when the dude did mine i watched him and he just took the old boot off and put the new one straight on???

do you think this can do any damage or should it be fine???

how long did it take your mechanic?

If the grease was fine and there was lots of it...there shouldn't be an issue...the problem is when the grease gets old, it starts to harden and looses all its lubrication properties...you will start to hear a sound from the front..next thing you know you need to replace it...I saw that FTO reco cv joints are like 250! and new ones are about 800...don't ask me where..just saw this in another thread from 2004.

Hi,

I had my cv boot changed on thursday last week. Front drivers side one. It cost me $255 to have my cv and my 2 fan belts changed at my mechanic... He found a universal one that he fitted...

So dunno if he did a dodgy job but thats much better than $400.00..

My 2 cents...

How much do you think to do all the CV and Universal joints, drop links and wheel bearings? My car has done a lot of kms and making some noises. Maybe its just time to get some new bits on my daily driver. Any ideas?

Hi Joel...let you know

I'm taking mine to Lee on Wednesday..to do both CV joints..remember price depends on what needs to be done as there is an Inner and Outer for each CV...typically you only need to do the outer which will cost like 200 x 2 = 400!

You should do the wheel bearings at the same time cos you have to take the wheel hub off anyway to get that the CVs...always a good time to do them..so i will get mine done.

Tell you how much that costs after Wednesday...

Sounds good man let me know. Do you mind me asking why you're getting it done? Are you getting noises as well? Max and I went for a cruise and he noticed that maybe my droplinks needed some work too......

Wheel Bearings are a bigger arse to do than CVs!

But yeah, better done while the CVs are being done. You need a hydraulic press to get the bastards out. Bearings themselves aint cheap either, probably looking at least $100 a wheel...

You could go fancy & put a set of Timkin taper needle rollers in thou
Last forever & cop a shedload of punishment.

Hey Ben have you got a photo on these Timkin taper needle rollers? I don't know what they actually are......

Here's the needle roller type:



As opposed to the standard ball type:



As you imagine, the hardened balls in the standard type wear away or 'elastically deform' the track in the shell they run in. Where as the Timkins have more smaller rollers to spread the load against the bearing shell