FTO AUSTRALIA

i am a soon to be gpx owner as mine is just getting complied and everything but was just wondering about the gpx and the gr...
i know that the gpx has got the mivec cam trickery to produce a few extra kw, but is there really any difference? some sites say there is no difference but doesn't the extra power give it a performance gain?
As i'm getting a tiptronic, how would an auto GPX and GR compare in a straight line battle???
and what are the 0-100kph times for an auto gpx anyway?

any help appreciated ppl!

This always causes big discussions!! and always a lot of grief.

Mitsubishi FTO GR REVIEW
94-96 6A12
1998cc Quad Cam 24 valve V6 FWD 1170 kg
127k\W @ 6600rpm
185Nm @ 3800rpm
8.45 16.15
5-Spd man/4-Spd Auto Mac' strut f't, rear vent disc ****


Mitsubishi FTO GPX REVIEW 94-96 6A12G 2.0lt DOHC 24V MIVEC V6 FWD 1190kg 150kW 200Nm 7.6 15.49 5-Spd man/4-Spd Auto INVECS II Mac' strut f't, rear vent disc, ABS $26000 to $33000

These give the time differences between GPX and GR but people here will dispute..there is also a kw difference. In my opinion, the cars have exactly the same v6 2 litre engine...except that the GPX gets a power boost at 5,500 revs. Therefore all things being equal (tyres, driver, year of car, servicing etc) the GPX should be a little more powerful and faster over 0-100metres when revs are taken to redline.
Watch all the responses you get though....

when my gpx manual hits mivec, i can hear it change noise, but i certainly don't feel it go faster.. just louder.. hehe!!

I've got a GPvR but it shoudl be the same principle.

There is a power difference with the mivec cams when you hear them switch, also the fact that low cam only generates around 90 kw at the wheels.

You must remember that the mivec cam and the standard cam are not that same. Lobes for the low mode are geared towards 5-6k rpm while standard cams have to deal with a wider range.

Now I can't speak for the differences between standard and mivec 6A12s as I haven't driven a standard 6A12 but you should be able to generate a higher torque curve across the RPM range as you have two cams across 8k rpm rather than one.

In real terms however, it depends on the car and the ability to get the power to the ground, you might be able to get more torque out of the engine, but if you can't put it down, it'll be useless.

I'd believe that the MIVEC engine will have longer legs at higher speeds than the standard but from 0-100, there wouldn't be too much difference I think, there's only two gears you need to go through and 1st doesn't really use that much torque at all

ahhhh... interesting...

coz mivecz are always more pricey than the GRz... and using a technology similar to VTEC YO!!!!! is always good i guess...

well, can't wait 4 my GPX! 5 more days... aaargh!!!!! lots of pain here

and on a completely different topic, which kind of car alarm does the job really well??? i was looking at a Brant alarm or a sentry or black widow but anyone have any recommendations or anything? done mind paying a lot 4 a good one as we gotta protect our baby!!!

had bad experiences with Brant immobilisers... just thought i'd let u know... i only got it installed because that's what the insurers wanted... a 3 point immobiliser specifically BRANT.....
the remote doesnt seem to work very well.... especially at a distance to the car...

I agree, they could be better.

The Insurance companies only want you to install BRANT brand car alarms because Brant has done some deal with them. As long as your alarm meets the Australian Standards and minimum requirements of the insurance company (ie 3 point immobiliser etc) there should not be a problem. I can't imagine an insurance company preferring a Brant alarm to a QuickTrack (I think it is called) system, which I believe is used on all very high performance cars such as porsches.

The Brant remotes don't work from a very long distance, although I don't really see the point in being sp far away when you unlock it, somebody else can get in and run off before you reach the car.

I also found that the flouro yellow buttons on my remote wear quickly (especially the edges) and can sometimes get stuck down. Mind you I have had the remote in everyday use for at least 2.5 yrs now.

Also I don't think Brant are open / able to be contacted on weekends...hope you don't have a prob with your alarm on the weekend.

On the flip side - My insurance company (Dawes) said that they have never had a car stolen that has been fitted with the Brant immobiliser / alarm. To me that is the most important thing, being able to count on it.

It has already saved my car at least once, when I heard the thing beeping ten times and saw some strange guys in the carpark about 20 metres away. When I went and checked, the car was still locked. It looks like they were trying to remotely scan my car and hoping it would open itself.

M@

While still on the subject of car alarms, does anybody know where to get those small 12V batteries that go into the remote? The battery code is A27 and I haven't seen them around anywhere. I'm not talking about the A23 that you can buy from the post office with the picture of a car remote on it.

I've had my Brant installed for nearly two years now and only had a dud siren replaced under warranty...or maybe I got too much water in it when washing the car

I've also had to replace the battery once and I found a replacement at K Mart for ~ $2.50 IIRC.

thanx 4 the feedback ppl, i woz seriously thinking about one... coz they got this Nemesis one which is supposedly top of the range going 4 $995 fitted. is that the one everyone has or is it the AA model or something?

are there any other alarms which are pretty decent?
so Brants not 2 bad then i guess? the immobiliser seems to be the biggest issue as everyone has said something about them...

and one last thing, i really should start another thread but does anyone know where to get those cool eyelids for the FTO in Sydney?

Yah i paid about $380 for the immobiliser..... they can come to you too...
guess BRANT's pretty good coz it does the job... just have a really annoying remote....

i think some1 said from the past threads that jetspeed will do the eyelids for you for $200 in plastic...
alternatively you can do a decal job for around 50$.....

you payed nearly 400 dollars just for a immobilizer???????

whats with the price?

mine was just over 100 bux and he came to my house and offered to fix my tv tuner aswell .

EURO wrote:This always causes big discussions!! and always a lot of grief.

Watch all the responses you get though....

LMAO... you took the words right out of my mouth buddy!

...think i'll seal my lips this time and let someone else have a more 'educated' take on this one before more sh*t hits the fan hahaha

Not sure how much these things normally cost cos I had to buy mine in a hurry. I got a Warlock 5500 for $450 incl installation. That one is 2-point immobiliser with black wire harness and an alarm.

But how about GPX vs GP-R! What's the difference between them? I'm gonna be getting an FTO and I want to know which is better performance wise!

quatters wrote:But how about GPX vs GP-R! What's the difference between them? I'm gonna be getting an FTO and I want to know which is better performance wise!

GPvR has slightly less weight and is equipped with a factory LSD to help put the power down to the ground.... other than that, it's the same engine, gearbox, suspension, tyres etc...

at the end of the day, i'd have to say the difference b/w the GPX vs GPvR in terms of accel. would come down to how well you launch, amongst all other things being equal (condition of th car, ambient temp etc etc)

I have driven a manual GPvR (and i own a GPX) myself and personally i don't feel much noticeable difference on the road... might be a different story on a stoptimer i guess, but never had that opportunity to test.

ill just add one little thing, the nonmivecs are quad cam as well as the mives, the difference is the mivec cam is slightly more aggressive, although it uses 2 cams one low one high,this is the same case on the non-mivecs, but the 2nd cam on the mivecs are more aggressive, this is the same with the vtecs and non vtecs. the lobe is slightly better tuned at 5,500 when it kicks in for a power boost. Im not gunna pretend to be an expert when it comes to cams, cause i amd still wondered by them,but this is how my mechanic put it simply for me. Though the mivec engines do have other parts different, like the tappets are hydrolic/gr are self tappering, etc

actually the lifters (tappets) on the mivec engine are not hydrolic they are solid adjustable the non mivec is the one with hydrolic lifters

yes u are correct got them mixed up whoops