FTO AUSTRALIA

I've been having problem with my engine mounts and cudnt hack it any longer.

Went down to see my mechanic on d weekend and took of my bottom engine mount (crossmember) to see if the rubber mounts were busted. Yes they were so busted / worn out and so soft.

I got the front engine mounts changed to a stronger and more solid ones to start with as the rear is not that bad at all. Put 'em back on, start the engine and u can tell str8 away it does make a difference coz the engine vibrates a little bit on idle due to stiffer mount.

Test drove it and boy does this little thing work?....hell yeah, I felt big difference the moment i put my feet on d accelerator n gave it a bit of blimp. Took off on 1st, the torque is just unbelievable it felt more solid during acceleration downlow all d way up to redzone. And no more annoying knocking noise coming from the engine bay. All i hear now is the angry engien roarrrrr.

I think engine mount is the most forgotten part of modding up a cars performance. Most ppl would mostly just spend their $$$ on engine mods not knowing that big HP will give huge amoutn of stress on cars engine mounts.

I know most of you will disagree with me but I just gotta share my thoughts base on my experience.

I totally agree with you

and yes - it does make a difference, a good one at that

Cheers
Tanya

I drove a friends Mirage with a 1.8 conversion with some mods (82 kw at the wheels with a poor tune) and you could actually feel the engine moving back and forth as you let go of the accelerator after flooring it at high revs...

HRD2BQT - how is traction on your car now? And you were using stock FTO mounts before or your stock lancer ones?

spetz:
ders 2 different type of traction problem: wheelspin and wheelhop

to make this short, I am more expereincing wheelhop than wheelspin coz of my busted mounts. I just cant seem to spin the tyres flat on the road but rather hop d wheel all over the place during hard launch. With a stronger mount I think I would be able to minimise the amount of wheelhop by a say 30%. I just gotta keep trying different set-ups (tyres, suspension setting, tyre pressure etc etc).

I think I was using the original Lancer mounts which is obviously a lot weaker / softer than those from the FTO's.

how much are they? and where can i get my hands on one....?

It didn't cost me a single cent.

It's definitely not an aftermarket mounts but rather off another car make of similar crossmember structure - that I'm not sure which car! I needed to modify the replacement mounts to make it fit to the Lancers/FTO crossmember.

But Im sure we can always get those custom made out of polyurathane silicon. I reckon this should be UAS next project upgrade.

DO I HEAR GROUP BUYS??

UAS already have these for the FTO. They must have just added them. (what a coincidence)

sweet!!!.......

GROUP BUY ANYONE??

yes uas do have now as my car was the first they put them in

i can now spin both wheels and no more knocking noise when hard takeoff

How much to put them on . ?
installation cost for this are?

Beme007 wrote:How much to put them on . ?
installation cost for this are?

You can do it urself. All u need is the right tools:
Heavy duty Jack
Jack Stand
17mm Socket
14mm Socket
14mm Spanner (2) one to hold the other end n one to lossen the other.
WD40 - helps lossen up those rusted bolt n threads

STEPS:
1. Jack the car up as high as possible.
2. Put the jack stand on each side of the car (under the car)
3. Spray WD40 to all the bolts to be taken off (leave it for say 5minutes)
4. Using the 14mm Spanners, take off bolts both front n rear mounts.
5. Using the 17mm Socket, take off bolts attached from the crossmember.
6. Once the crosmeember is off, take off each mount using 14mm Socket.
7. Put on the new engine mount making sure its tight enuff to avoid unnecessary movement.
8. Re-attached crossmember but make sure not to tighten it up just yet.
9. Put the bolt back in attaching mounts (front n rear) to the engine/gbox assembly. Make sure it's tight enuff.
10. Tighten up the crossmember bolts.
11. Jack the car down.

TESTING:
1. Start the engine, you'd notice straight away that the car tends to shakes/rattle a little at idle.
2. Blimp the accelerator, you'd notice that the engine roar is a lot meatier than normal.
3. Test drive it on the road, you'd notice straight away that acceleration during take off is much smoother and more responsive as u change gear. MORE TORQUE.
4. Knockin is eliminated (maybe not as bad as normal).

Others may have something to add on this

i saw on UAS that they are $150 each exchange...
does that mean its $300 for the front 2 and you post yours to them???

Hey HRD2BQT i dont suppose you have any pictures do you?


thanks
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folks i have a full set of FTO engine mounts spare and can get them done in solid rubber or urathane for 120 AUD each exchange.

You could send me yours and i would get them done or you could pay a refundable deposit on these and when i get your mounts i would refund the deposit.

efteoh wrote:Hey HRD2BQT i dont suppose you have any pictures do you?


thanks

[/quote]

eh!!....r u referring to the step by steps procedures on how to change mounts?? If you are, then no I dont have pictures of it. SOrry!