FTO AUSTRALIA

Will this suffice?

Rather peeved after removing everything I had to reassemble as I was missing a bloody tool... Typical.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FIT-Screw-Ty ... 1189wt_761

If you are just cracking the ball joints' tapered shaft/joint.....
Undo the nut and leave it on loose, hold a hammer against one side of the ball joint and hit the opposite side with another hammer, better with lump hammers. A few good whacks will crack it. Then remove the nut and seperate the joint.

That tool will f**k your ball joint rubber cover and most of the time they don't work and you have to hit it with a hammer anyway.

Then when reinstalling, doing up the nut will pull the joint back together.

......

Not at all sure I get most of what you've posted there.

And I had extensive use of the Jeremy Clarkson method with no avail.

Edit: this is more or less what I'm trying to achieve, but imagine the hub upside down and the ball joint is attached to the control arm...

The tool linked is like that in the image, but wondering if it will work with the FTO.

Just hitting it with a single hammer won't work as the force you are applying will just pass through the joint.
If you hold a second hammer against the joint opposite the hitting hammer the force will act on the joint and crack it.

EDIT: Pic on next page

But is that for removing the ball joint, or just the hub from the taper?

Astron_Boy wrote:But is that for removing the ball joint, or just the hub from the taper?

The hub from the taper!


When we crack ball joints on big machines we use two sledge hammers and hit them at full blow.
We never use a tool like you have shown.

I would be laughed at if I tryed using one at work.

The ball joint and the taper are one part. You never seperate the actual ball.

It is doing what the pic you posted is showing.

PHIL069 wrote:The ball joint and the taper are one part. You never seperate the actual ball.

Not trying to do that.

In summary....
Don't buy that tool and remove the taper as I have shown, with two lump hammers.

PHIL069 wrote:In summary....
Don't buy that tool and remove the taper as I have shown, with two lump hammers.

+1

It can be done with one hammer but requires a lot more effort.

Yep, I do it with a lump hammer. Just leave the nut half on so you don't butcher the taper & its thread.

I use a big steel rod as a drift to hit, and I find that putting the 2 bolts back in the hub to shock mount, give you a more solid platform to start belting.

Maybe using one of these will help?

Supplanter wrote:Maybe using one of these will help?

Haha

Touché

I always get used not fair

Lool

Can't find one of those on eBay.
The one on the forum won't get by post.

Yeah sorry mate you'd need four pallets...