FTO AUSTRALIA

We talked about how bad the welding job were done in the brackets? My passenger side just broke into two. I strongly recommend to have them reinforced cause they will it hold for long. Dissappointed with their quality.

I have a 22mm rear swaybar and used the "reinforced mounts" from whiteline and never had issues

Wow, that's pretty ordinary.

I got spares of that bracket if you need it.

You're lucky the bracket let go though, as I know with Hondas using thick rear swaybars they rip the whole subframe.

How would you comment on ride with the 22mm swaybar?
Which front swaybar do you have?

im trying to get my mate to weld a new bracket for me with a slightly thicker plate. And perhaps set it to the softest setting.
I felt the rear is more stable and i could tackle the corner harder. That was just how i felt, but could not work out a speed or grip level. But ride is noticably harsher, as if FTO is not harsh enough!

LOL, i was driving down with 3 passengers from newc to sydney last night and they concluded that i should change my car.

But now im just back to the orginal rear sway bars until the bracket is fixed.

The front is still stock. Should be enough for a FD.

Agreed on the bumpier ride. Crusing around the Hunter valley area for example can be a jumpy experience.
Did you find having that set-up made the car over-steer in the wet?

i have not experience that yet so i shall leave for others to comment. I generally go slower in wet...

Drive safe, of course
Just that from experience the rear end breaks grips when too early on the accelerator.

which setting did you go for?

zuihoujueding wrote:which setting did you go for?

badass...

Fronts: standard springs, eagle F1 tire, KYB.
Rears: king springs, KYB, china made komet tyres, rear strut brace.
Just to free up the grip slightly.
Current.
Front: kings springs, strut brace, KYB, eagle F1.
Rear: standard springs, KYB, eagle F1
I miss the first set up, but crashed, twice all in the wet(first FTO).

pretty similar to mine, no coilovers.

maybe thats the weakest link there which cause the crash.....(china made komet tyres)

also i mean perhaps setting the furthest hole nearest to the tip of the sway bar might ease the bracket abit.

Curse the Komets in the wet, and using 2nd at mid revs(my mistake)
Found that cheap set up to be better around roundabouts @ 40kph in the dry. Bit lest effort doing late turn-ins towards chosen apex.
What tires u using?


Ipromise

215/45/R16 of Kumho KU36 with stock rims all round!

Semi-slicks almost! The F1's grips good overall, road noise a bit loud.
Higher profile tyres can take away bit of the rattle on rough roads.

Eagle F1's GDS3 rock. Best tyre I've has but expensive.

F1....how the way it sounds already

just so you guys know this bar was designed to fit with the oem chassis brackets mounts.

Now on the RHS the whiteline HD version is the same as the OE item.
on the LHS it is not. Because when you flip the OE bracket to mount on the LHS it moves the D bush further out relative to the chassis rail. This forces the bar to the right and puts a lot of lateral stress on the Whiteline chassis bracket due to its mis alignment to the swaybar and causes it to break.
If you drive these cars on the track with with semi slicks with this misaligned bracket you will cause damage.

It is off by approx 24mm.
Notice this by looking at the top and pinpointing the mounting holes used. Compare this to the whiteline HD version.
Now alignment these pair of mounting holes and then compare the D bush location.
You will notice it is not the same.
Thats why if you do an issue of these bars you will have to shove the bar to the right and this cause the endlinks to be crooked etc.

This forces the bar to sit on the bend on the bar made to clear the exhaust and causes the endlinks to be crooked on both side. This is not right. They must be staright up.
Some of you would will have issues that when this happens the endlink mounting nut and thread will foul the shock body on the RHS.

I have made mounts with the right offset of D-bush/bracket to resolve this problem. Convsersations with Whiteline told are not going to fix this issue because they in their words this product is end of line and its not worth spending development time on it and they may as well can the product.
I knew this already and devised a custom bracket to resolve this issue.

If any of you guys have seen this issue by all means let us know. And if you want something done about it I may be able to assist.

Agreed. My mate physically look at the broken mount and mentioned there is some majoy deign flaws going on. And from memory, the pair of whiteline brackets are retailed over $100!!!

zuihoujueding wrote:Agreed. My mate physically look at the broken mount and mentioned there is some majoy deign flaws going on. And from memory, the pair of whiteline brackets are retailed over $100!!!

The mounts are quite strong but due to the fact they are a replica of the OE in terms of the D bush/bracket mounting the undue lateral stress causes the failure.
What have you done to fix the issue since?
Do your endlinks aligned straight up on both sides?
Recently whiteline included the HD mounts in the kit so they dont have to be purchased seperately.