FTO AUSTRALIA

i was changing my front right strut and noticed my cv joint came out of its sitting place. is that supposed to happen?
is there any way to tighten it back into its socket or do i buy a new cv?

Inner or outer?
If it's the inner then the next question is is half it still in the gear box?
If it's the outer then did a dirty great big nut fall on your toes when you took the wheel off?

This ^

inner cv, half its still in and the cover was off. i dont know about the outer because it was on a hoist and i was using power tools. what kinda nut do u mean? and where would the nut have fallen off from ill get it back on the hoist and have a look if its missing.

Ok then, you need a new inner boot kit. Do both sides as best pratice.
It's actually highly unlikely that the outer Cv nut has come off, but they can come loose. Pull the wheel off and it's the big center nut. There will be a split pin through it. Torque it to ***Nm____somone.

DaveO wrote: Torque it to ***Nm____somone.

Lots

If the inner joint is still in, just shove the boot back on and get some cv bot clamps.

If the joint is out, in theory you got it out without removing the crown nut so just get it back in there.

If the joint came apart when you were pulling the strut out it most likely means you have torn the inner boot in the process

DaveO

Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:23 am

Re: cv joint, suspension
If the joint came apart when you were pulling the strut out it most likely means you have torn the inner boot in the process
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my mate told me this is the problem, as its a common problem for neutral DIY'ers.
as im still learning, i am told to go to the wreckers and buy a replacement cv inner boot, and cv rod. pretty much the whole cv on the right side.
anyone have any idea how much that costs?
and how long i can still drive the car the way it is.

thanks daveo

Huh? You just need a boot.

Go to any Supercheap / Auto One / Repco type store & ask for an inner CV boot kit for a HJ Galant. Shouldn't cost you anymore than 30 bucks.

With that you get the boot, grease & straps to clamp it on with. Also, if you dont own a set of circlip plyers, now would be the time to get some while you're in an auto shop - as you'll need them to remove the circlip that holds the inner section of the joint on the shaft. It needs to come off to fit the new boot.

sorry bennoz, i forgot to mention he said the tj case is loose, and the spider assembly isnt connecting properly for that reason, and maybe thats the reason my suspension is making cranking noises when i turn right and moving from stationary.
so he asked me to get a replacement cv shaft and tj case and boot so on.
is this correct?
im trying to fix this cranking noise as soon as possible, as its very embarrasing lol.

Best get a whole driveshaft then. Im sure dstocks will have spares.

Having said that, inner CVs can be reconditioned. Those joints are serviceable.

hmm
bennoz
could you give me a rough estimate on how much they would be?
both full drive shaft kit and reconditioning.
thanks bennoz

I think I paid about $75 per shaft last time.. That was a new outer CV & reco'ed inner with new boots & grease.

Its not expensive. Just look up your local driveshaft guy. My guy is a little asian guy in a dodgy workshop in Blacktown, but he does good work!

Every drive shaft joint will be able to rebuild your drive shaft.

My local drive shaft guy told me you can only reco the outers once. And he didn't think you can reco the inners at all.
But dstocks can get genuine inners from Japan at a realy good price.

You can buy the outers off ebay for 30 bucks. Got em in both cars at the moment.

Bennoz wrote:You can buy the outers off ebay for 30 bucks. Got em in both cars at the moment.

Yeah got them in mine too, no dramas here.