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I'm still not convinced my mivec works? If it's not working will it stop the engine from reving above 5500?
It will rev to 6500 approx - i've not gone past that but just not convinced it's working.

Is there anyway to test it from the engine bay?

While you're driving, if you give it a good squirt after about 20 mins of driving (to be safe) rev it fairly far up the rev range and you should hear a change of pitch from the engine, thats MIVEC kicking in.

or just rev it to 8000rpm? once or twice shouldnt hurt

Does it feel like its not accelerating anymore after 6k?

silverGPX wrote:or just rev it to 8000rpm? once or twice shouldnt hurt

Shouldnt hurt??? It was designed for that, flog the crap out it.

I8A4RE wrote:

silverGPX wrote:or just rev it to 8000rpm? once or twice shouldnt hurt

Shouldnt hurt??? It was designed for that, flog the crap out it.

lol i didnt want to sound like a toss.

well I took it to 7500 today.

And...? did it work? Wait you do have a GPX right?

lol

Moved into help area as it's related more to this area.

well to be totally honest - i don't know. If it wont rev to 7500 without it - then i guess it works, if it does wellllllll - no real change in sound so if thats the case it's very smooth in the changeover.

It's very hard to hear in 1st gear, 2nd gear is a bit easier to hear and in 3rd you can't mistake it. However, if you are reaching MIVEC in 3rd gear then you are travelling at about 140kmph so be careful. Stick it on your local dyno and you will see it on the graph.
Good point too, it is a GPX or GPvR isn't it?
Also, the GPX has a progressive rev limiter, this means it wont fully rev until it's properly warmed up (like the M3 and M5 BMW). If you flog it from cold the limiter cuts in at about 5500 rpm, then about 6500 etc until fully warm.
You won't hear MIVEC if you stick it in neutral and rev it, you need to be driving so that there is some load on the engine.
1 more thing, have you reset the car recently? I've had issues when the battery has been removed and put back in, it can take a few days before its running normal again.

I'd laugh if you had a gr

its a gpx! with mivec written on panels and engine cover. Mind u it also had a Nakaya Tune sticker - but i dont think thats right as it's a 95 not a 97. it is def mivac as it has a 4 wire alternator.
Yes battery has been out - it was dead flat when i bought it, and i changed the battery for a new bigger one and ugraded all the terminals and added an extra earth strap to the block (attached to a lifting hook bolt) but i have done about 900 kms since then.

AJ wrote: Also, the GPX has a progressive rev limiter, this means it wont fully rev until it's properly warmed up (like the M3 and M5 BMW). If you flog it from cold the limiter cuts in at about 5500 rpm, then about 6500 etc until fully warm.

Is that what that is? I always thought it was the engine telling me to f*ck off till its ready.

spency wrote:

AJ wrote: Also, the GPX has a progressive rev limiter, this means it wont fully rev until it's properly warmed up (like the M3 and M5 BMW). If you flog it from cold the limiter cuts in at about 5500 rpm, then about 6500 etc until fully warm.

Is that what that is? I always thought it was the engine telling me to f*ck off till its ready.

Yep, very advanced stuff for it's time.

Mivec should kick in at about 5500 RPM from memory. If it isnt working, someone might have attached a GR alternator to your engine (its been done before). Your alternator should have 4 pins not 2.

Did the previous owner install a mivec controller by any chance? And that is set up incorrectly?

Hmmmmm - very good question. It all appears stock and not jiggered with at this point but i havent gone looking. Biggest problem so far is trying to fix the rear demister track - it's been scratched up by something, possibly someone cleaned the window with a ring on, or used sandpaper to clean it!, hundreds of scratches breaking the track. I have tried with silver epoxy, got about half way across the window after 2 tubes @ $20 each. Gave up, rang windscreens place - got quoted $950 for a 2nd hand unit - with no guarantee it's any better and $1300 for a new unit. So, new idea - got some aluminum tape - conductive stuff, gonna try cutting thin strips of that and sticking over the scratches. Any one got any other ideas - besides not bothering!?

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