Page 1 of 1
Fog Light problem, no electricity deliver to light bulb
Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:48 pm
by jwa
Hi as the topic I can not turn my fog light on,
I have check the fog light fuse also every single in both fuse boxes, no blow fuse
and test the curcuit with multimeter there is electricity running through the fog light fuse,
but when I test the positive(power), negative(ground) cables there is no electricity reading (on both fog light plug)
my one is pre-facelift so the plug come with the dimmer and indicator ,
the dimmer and indicator are working fine.
P.S. when I press the fog light button, the speedometer light does come on.
Anyone got an idea?
Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:22 pm
by vipfto
They need a working bulb to complete circuit i believe so may just need simple replacement, otherwise start tracing back to see where power is being cut
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 12:08 am
by jwa
vipfto wrote:They need a working bulb to complete circuit i believe so may just need simple replacement, otherwise start tracing back to see where power is being cut
just replace both light bulb but still not working....
does anyone know if there is any "extra" fuse link to the fog light button, or relay..?
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:30 am
by vipfto
should also be a relay
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:31 pm
by jwa
vipfto wrote:should also be a relay
where would the relay locate?
Just spend few hours testing the terminal,
the 15A fuse for fog light is good,
when turn the fog light on and took that fuse out test with multimeter read about 11.60v,
so does it mean the fog light switch inside the car is working?
because i has power going though the fog light fuse.
On the otherhand when turn the fog light OFF and took that fuse out test with multimeter read 0.0001 is nothing.
Also tested the dimmer '+' , '-' wire, both are working
then i put the multimeter on dimmer '+' and fog light '-'
still can read about 12v, therefore the '-' wire on fog light plug should be working
Now does it mean all come down to the '+' wire in between the fuse box and the light plug?
How could both side wire fail at the same time....
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:13 pm
by dstocks
Are you sure the switch is OK. If the switch has burned out (which is a fairly common fault, it can sometimes take the plug out as well. Are there any scorch marks on the plug at all?
Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 10:34 pm
by jwa
dstocks wrote:Are you sure the switch is OK. If the switch has burned out (which is a fairly common fault, it can sometimes take the plug out as well. Are there any scorch marks on the plug at all?
No, there are no scorch marks at all, but full of grease and it is dirty....
Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:32 am
by Nacho
My money's on the switch too. I've burnt out at least 3 coz cbf installing a relay so I don't bother connecting it up now. Run your multimeter through the switch.
Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 6:33 pm
by jwa
Fixed Thanks guys,
should be the switch problem, I just add a relay and control by the other wire in the switch.
Just another question dose any have an idea about what "part number" this would be
dstock maybe?
http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php? ... 0s248p8104
it show Manufacturers Part Numbers for REF ONLY MR114085
but when i take it down to 2 different Mit dealer they say "part number not exist"
Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 2:01 am
by payaya
Hahah gotta love when this question is asked! For the 10th millionth time.
Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2010 6:23 am
by bduffman
gessing the part number dosent exist cause of the fact aus didnt bring out the ftos so any parts for the ftos arnt in there data base only parts they have are shared parts with the lancers personly ild buy threw camskilll rather then dealers , dealers charge like 3 times more then the part is worth ive delt with camskill befor bought a big box of stuff costed 100 dollars to ship